When to attach PE Details?

It depends on things like location, masking and structure.

  I will pre paint PE Railings, but PE stairs, but I attach anything that has no color demarcation near it (ladders on a wood deck for instance).  An example will be catwalks around carrier decks, hatches, window frames and mast platforms.  These will be assembled and painted as one unit.

  Armor and Aircraft PE will generally be attached and painted as one, but again, it all depends on subject and location.

  I guess what we're all saying is that it is up to you and your preferences and abilities.

Good luck and have fun (especially doing the PE crawl-you'll know what I mean as soon as it happens!)

They have it in paperback from $25.98 and hard cover from $44.95.  Here is the link.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14/185-6168520-7479311?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=ship+models+from+kits+basic+and+advanced+techniques+for+small+scales&sprefix=Ship+Models+Fr%2Cstripbooks%2C335

Bob

I just check out Amazon and for a new one on 'Ship Models From Kits : Basic and Advanced Techniques for Small Scales..it costs $396 per book.. Is anyone else seeing it..?

The best answer I can give you is that it depends on what you are talking about.  Hatches I attach early on as I tend to try to paint things like bulkheads on the sprue, or at least before I attach them to the model.  Other PE parts I attach as seems to make sense to me for the build sequence.  I don't like leaving too much PE for the end of the build for fear of forgetting something.  I tend to build in subassemblies, so I attach the PE that goes with each subassembly as I build it up.  That includes the railings for that subassembly, attaching the railing once the subassembly is otherwise completed.  Remember to try to attach the PE from the centerline out and down.  As a general rule, that will give you the best result. 

The one thing I always attach last is the main deck railing.  It's just too easy to knock off a section of railing, or bend it beyond repair, if you attach it while you are still building.  I'd also suggest that you attach your railing in short sections rather than long runs.  Cut the railing in 2 -3 inch lengths at most, cutting at the stancions, and bend and attach as needed.  I usually tack the railing with some CA and then once it has set I run a bead of white glue down the length of the base of the railing.  Using this method I've never had a section of railing come loose.  Another helpful trick is to attach small strips of Tamiya tape where you are going to attach railings, extending up a bit higher than the railing itself.  This gives something to hold the railing section in place as the glue dries.  Then, once the glue has set, gently remove the tape.  If you have trouble with the tape pulling the railing, put a tiny amount of Zip Kicker on it, and it will immediately release from the railing.

Sorry to be so long winded.  I hope this is helpful to you,

Bob

P.S.

You might consider investing in a book called "Ship Models From Kits" by David Griffith.  Great book, well illustrated that has a wealth of information about different modeling techniques.  It can be had from Amazon for around $20.00.  Another good reference is "Basics of Ship Modeling" by Mike Ashey (also google his web site).  Also available from Amazon for about $12.00.  It also has a lot of good tips.  I have both books and refer to them regularly when I'm working on a project.

What they said.

Bill

mfsob

Any mess-ups can be covered up with a brush and hand-painted touch-ups, or use dull coat to kill the superglue shine.

Just be sure to mask the bridge windows, then dullkote the model at the end. I always prepaint PE before I attach it, and I do that as late in the game as possible. usually before the rigging tho.

Short answer is - it depends.

In general, there is no structural stress on PE parts, so you can safely glue them on after you paint the big pieces, like the superstructure, decks, etc. I generally try to paint PE parts while they're still attached to the fret since that is infinitely easier than trying to hold the lil' guys and paint them freehand.

If you are attaching things like life rings, firehose racks, etc., that won't have any stress placed on them, use plain old white glue, or one of the tacky craft glues, to attach the PE bits. Some guys use white glue to position PE railings and then nail them down with a thin line of superglue. Since I build in 1/700, I find that a thin bead of gel CA along the bottom holds any railing where I want it to stay.

Any mess-ups can be covered up with a brush and hand-painted touch-ups, or use dull coat to kill the superglue shine.