display base for 1/500 Oriana

Can't do better than these guys...

http://www.bluejacketinc.com/cases.htm

I have my wood cut, milled and run in lots at a signage factory. Buy my brass a dozen at a time.

But I build ships at a pretty good clip.

wjt619

hey everyone,

i have been commisioned to build a the 1/500 PO Oriana from modelcraft. The built is almost complete and I am having trouble finding a wooden baseboards and the brass pedalstals around my local shops. Any help will be greatly apprieciated! Please all you experts out there HELP!!!

If you have access to basic woodworking equipment you can make your own.    Oak boards are available locally from hardware stores (Lowes/HomeDepot).   Other hardwoods are available at specialty woodworking shops (Rockler, WoodCraft).   Use a router to add a decorative edge to the board.

Pedestals are often done using brass lamp finials (the knob which attach the lamp shade to the lamp harp).   Drill a thru hole up through the finial & run a machine screw thru the base & pedestal into the nut which you previously afixed to the inside of the hull before you closed it up.  You can try to use coarser wood or sheet metal screw to afix the model to the pedestal/base but you will run the hazard of breaking the plastic if your pilot hole is undersized or you overtighten the screw.

You did plan your method of mounting the finished ship before beginning assembly didn't you?

You can do a building ways presentation by ripping some strips of the same base wood material while you have the saw out to cut the base to length

For a baseboard I just use a length of oak board from Lowes, Menards, or Home Depot.  Square off the ends to appropriate length.  I put a little groove in sides and edges with my table saw for a little ornamentation.  Either stain with oak stain, or even just clear coat.

Rather than brass supports I use rods of plexiglas/acrylic.  You can find those at many hobby shops.  I put pair of blocks inside the hull, drilled out to match rod diameter rather than relying on bond of plexiglas to thin hulls. I drill holes in hull bottom first, glue rods to hull and glue on reinforcement blocks at same time. 

Another pair of holes in base, to match holes in hull.

One thing to keep in mind, and Don's idea works well for this, is to have a temporary base installed until you finish. I have a two foot long chunk of 3/4" plywood that I've used for years. It has a centerline drawn on it and as many pairs of holes down the middle as I've needed. It's also wide enough so that I can use it as a baseline to measure the height of stuff all around, like boot toppings. And of course it's covered in paint and glue drips, pieces of blue tape etc.

Thinking some more abt Don's trick, one of the challenges in the way I (and most people) set this up is that with two pedestals of fixed length, you need to find the right two spots on the hull. I suspect that model companies tend to default to a level keel more often than reality, but it needs to be studied before deciding on the spacing. The ability to adjust the level would be useful...

Here's another take-off on the building board.  Put a cleat on one end.

It allows you to lay the work in progress over and access either side.

Or stand it on its end

The cleat is held on by some drywall screws and is easily swapped end for end to allow you to stand it the other way or clear one area for easier access & manipulation.

I have access to electronic circuit board stand-offs.  Thats what I use as temporary spacers (finial replacements) during construction

That is the 1:350 scale ISW USCGC Hamilton

Great idea, that cleat.

My building board has the same little vinyl feet that I put on the bottom of the finish bases.

bondoman

One thing to keep in mind, and Don's idea works well for this, is to have a temporary base installed until you finish. I have a two foot long chunk of 3/4" plywood that I've used for years. It has a centerline drawn on it and as many pairs of holes down the middle as I've needed. It's also wide enough so that I can use it as a baseline to measure the height of stuff all around, like boot toppings. And of course it's covered in paint and glue drips, pieces of blue tape etc.

 

Thinking some more abt Don's trick, one of the challenges in the way I (and most people) set this up is that with two pedestals of fixed length, you need to find the right two spots on the hull. I suspect that model companies tend to default to a level keel more often than reality, but it needs to be studied before deciding on the spacing. The ability to adjust the level would be useful...

Yes, good idea, I do that myself, though I do a seperate temporary base for each kit. I make it out of particle board- very cheap but handy.

I forget the technical term for a non-level keel, but it was not really that common.  It was a trademark of Baltimore clippers and a few other very fast schooners, but sort of died out.  Larger ships, and modern ships, are almost always a level keel.

I usually go to HOBBY LOBBY or MICHEALS and getthe pre-made bases that are for DECOUPAGE.They take a stain well.Just watch out for knots.I also use plexi rod for the stand-offs.I usually get the twisted squarerod.It gives a visual " kick " to the finished model.Especially if the ship is an unusual subject.

I would prefer the REVELL version of this kit as it was molded in a darker BUFF and closer to correct in scale thicknesses.With your kit( I have it too) thickness can be a problem.Bulwarks that should be scale thickness are numerous and with this kit require a LOT of work.It still can be a gorgeous ship when done.        TANKERbuilder

This is a piece of oak from Lowe's with molding around the edge.  The brass is spent .22 cal short ammunition.  If you know a shooter, or a place where shooters shoot, you can pick up a gazillion of these in various pistol calibers.

1/600 Airfix Mauretania