Glencoe CG cutter- railing stanchions

Don

 What Coast Guard  model are you refering to? I'm confused by the "50 odd holes" you're drilling...

Mike M

Can you post a picture of what you are trying to drill? I am not quite sure based on your description.

Pete

thunder1

Don

 

 What Coast Guard  model are you refering to? I'm confused by the "50 odd holes" you're drilling...

Mike M

Yeah, too early in the morning when I posted- I meant the subchaser!  It is one of the 110 footers widely used in WW1, then again in WW2 (the kit is the early version).  It has the rail stanchions cast as part of the hull sides, and they are terrible.

Powder Monkey

Can you post a picture of what you are trying to drill? I am not quite sure based on your description.

 

Pete

Fortunately, I do have a good closeup lens, so should be able to do this.  May take a few days to get the photo and get it posted.

Are there not pre-made stantions of metal (brass, et al) that are pre-drilled for railings or cables? I've seen some on a build somewhere. I'd bet they're available in various sizes/scales.

http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/stanchions.html

Also, is it possible to mount the stantions just inboard of the gunwales and affixed to holes in the main deck level? Then they can also be CA'ed to the gunwale itself. Might not be scale or proper but they would be reinforced.

I have the kit too and the method you're using is precisely the one I would have picked. Tedious indeed but then the reward, the personal gratification is always in mind...

Harquebus

Are there not pre-made stantions of metal (brass, et al) that are pre-drilled for railings or cables? I've seen some on a build somewhere. I'd bet they're available in various sizes/scales.

http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/stanchions.html

Also, is it possible to mount the stantions just inboard of the gunwales and affixed to holes in the main deck level? Then they can also be CA'ed to the gunwale itself. Might not be scale or proper but they would be reinforced.

 

I have the kit too and the method you're using is precisely the one I would have picked. Tedious indeed but then the reward, the personal gratification is always in mind...

Yeah, there are stanchions available, though none I know of with the correct height and spacing of holes.  But even those take an even bigger mounting hole than the method I was thinking of using, so drilling the holes is even worse!  Hope to take pix of flange today.

Okay, got a picture.  Not a good one, but maybe it will illustrate the problem.  First, here is a portion of a scale drawing of the subchaser, showing the railings and stanchions.

Okay, you can see the stanchions and the railing cables.  Not also the strake between the portholes and the top of the side- you will see that in the following picture (yeah, it looks like the kit strake is a big too big/out of scale, but forget that for now).

Okay, the top of the hull side is indicated by the two lines with arrowheads on either side.  The strake bulges out.  The width of the hull side (I'd call it a bulwark but it barely stands above the deck when the deck is in place) is only 60 mil.  I am planning on using 60 mil aluminum tubing for the stanchions, and want to hold them to the deck by putting 30 mil pins into the hull side, over which I will glue the stanchions (after drilling the holes for the cables/railings.  I have marked where each stanchion goes, and have had success drilling them by hand with a pin vise.  But four of these holes tired my hand and wrist out completely.

So, I said, hey, I've got this modelers drill press- How about I chuck the drill in that, build a jig to hold the hull level on the base of the press, and drill away.  I realized that with that narrow hull, I'd better make some sort of jig to slide along to center the 30 mil drill bit on the hull side.  So far, been unable to drill- the drill wanders, even at very slow speeds, and will not center in the 60 mil.  I suppose I could drill one or two holes a day, but I need almost 60 of them. I am reasonably patient, but hey, a month to drill the stanchion holes !!

So I'm thinking your jig is like a saddle that fits over the hull. Maybe it will help if you put a piece of tubing in the jig to support more of the drill bit. If the drill is kept steady, maybe that will keep it from wandering. The other problem could be from heat. I have drilled acrylic parts by spritzing with water from a spray bottle. It is very messy, but may help. If you have an air compressor, you may be able to rig that to cool the area around the bit.

Pete

Don, why does the bit wonder?  Is the bit too flexible, or it won't bite into the plastic?  If the bit is too flexible perhaps you could sacrifice the bit by cutting it down so only the amount you need is sticking out of the chuck?  If it won't bite, maybe it's too dull, or you could start a pilot hole with a sewing needle.

m@

Don, seriously I doubt that the stanchions were mounted on the top of the wale/ hull. That may have made it easier for Revell/ Lindberg and all of the other Taney kits to cast the stanchions as a part of the hull.

I think the stanchions would have been mounted on the deck, inside of the wale, fairwater or what ever you want to call it.

Powder Monkey

So I'm thinking your jig is like a saddle that fits over the hull. Maybe it will help if you put a piece of tubing in the jig to support more of the drill bit. If the drill is kept steady, maybe that will keep it from wandering. The other problem could be from heat. I have drilled acrylic parts by spritzing with water from a spray bottle. It is very messy, but may help. If you have an air compressor, you may be able to rig that to cool the area around the bit.

Pete

Good idea, Pete. I could solder a short piece of 1/16 tubing (1/32 i.d.) on the jig. I'll give that a try.  Yeah, I'll try cooling fluid too!  I use a cheap drill press from Model expo and the speed control is not the best.

bondoman

Don, seriously I doubt that the stanchions were mounted on the top of the wale/ hull. That may have made it easier for Revell/ Lindberg and all of the other Taney kits to cast the stanchions as a part of the hull.

I think the stanchions would have been mounted on the deck, inside of the wale, fairwater or what ever you want to call it.

Bondoman is correct, as shown in these photos from the very helpful Subchaser.org:

Lots of useful photos on the website, for those unfamiliar with it. It focuses on the WW1 '110 subchasers.

Cheers

Ah!  Great!  No similar picture was in the book I bought.  That sure simplifies things considerably.  Thanks for posting that picture.

Thanks Greg.

Appears I was on the right track with one of my suggestions aand your photos prove it; have the stantions mounted inboard of the gunwale or hull side. Great news and thanks again.