Need help with Iowa class battleship.

1/350 is HUGE ... 1/700, now that's venturing into insanity country ...

Kraken, I'd suggest the GMM PE set.  GMM's PE is generally well made, not too subject to break with minor handling, and GMM definitely has the best instructions of any of the PE manufacturers.  Here is a link for you for the PE for a Fletcher.  They are out of stock on the kit, but any number of on line vendors do carry it.  If you need help there just let me know: http://www.freetimehobbies.com/GMM35014.aspx

I've bought a lot of stuff from FreeTime Hobbies and you won't get better customer service.  I think you'll be thanking yourself later if you take on the Fletcher first and master the skills peculiar to ships.  Like you, I wanted to build a BB early on.  I started on Trumpeter's U.S.S. North Carolina, but after I got into I realized I needed more experience with PE and just ship building in general, so I put her on the shelf.  Now, with several smaller builds under my belt, I feel ready to do her and she is my next project. 

As for paint, I can't be of any guidance.  I use WEM's colourcoats enamels exclusively when I can and Model Master's enamel when I can't get WEM.  Never use acrylics.

Bob

Bob

I posted an almost identical question about the New Jersey about 4 months ago.

I listened to Robert, and picked up both the Fletcher and GMM PE locally at a better stocked LHS.  I know the major online retailers stock them, as well, but I think the forum discourages linking to retailers.

I am still working on the Fletcher, although I work slowly no matter what my subject,  it's a handful.  Prior to the Fletcher, I had used extensive Aber photoetch on 1/35 armor.  Extensive as in working 1/35 hinges, padlock hasps, etc,  Trust me when I tell you that I hope for the best for your build, but even a speed build of the Fletcher would be a huge help.  There is a lot of forming of long, ridiculously delicate railings and attaching them to the extreme edge of bizarrely shaped areas--there are debates even now about how to best do this and what adhesives are best.   It's a pretty different animal, assembling and painting in subsections, build sequence, deviance from suggested build order, etc.

Best of luck,

Bill

I'll go ahead and pick up the Fletcher too. Could you provide a link to the kit and best PE set for it please?

Also, what Tamiya acrylic color would be the closest match for the gray used on the hull of the Wisconsin?

I appreciate all the help from everyone.

I agree. Go GMM.

But still, build the Fletcher, TOO.

As has been said, it'll give you a break from the big boy, produce more immediate results, and be a nice companion when finished.

You can NEVER go wrong with Gold Medal Model instructions. Period.

I've decided to proceed with a PE set for the kit.I'm not too concerned that it will defeat me; my first kit back into the hobby was a 1/48 Flanker with photo-etch and tri-color splinter camo scheme. The whole purpose of this build Is t present it to my Grandfather for his 60th Anniversary of his deploying onto the Wisconsin as a Machinist's Mate

Beaten the single Eduard PE set and the Gold Medal sets 1&2, which one would be recommended?

Also, I've heard GMM sets have the best instructions. Is this true?

I would also suggest something with a simple paint scheme.I'm slugging my way through my first 1/350 kit with PE and it is most challenging.A very complex camo paint job isn't helping either.Definately do not expect quick results.

I'll second the suggestion of Tamiya's Fletcher as a great first kit, especially if you are going to trick it out with a PE set.  Combined with a good PE set, and there are several for 1/350 Fletchers, Eduard, GMM, Yankee Model Works, etc., this little kit builds up into a real show piece.  And, if you want to get your feet wet with resin, the 5/38 turrets in the kit are a bit under scale and can be replaced with accurate replacement turrets from Alliance Model Works. 

 I have to agree with tankerbuilder that enthusiasm isn't enough.  My first build coming back into the hobby was Italieri's 1/35 LCVP.  After that, a pretty easy build, I thought I was ready.  Then I took on Dragon's 1/350 U.S.S. Laffey and discovered how unready I was.  Suffice it to say that the kit defeated me and ended up on the shelf of doom, so screwed up it ultimately ended in the trash. 

Modeling is like any other hobby that requires levels of skill.  You have learn to walk before you run.  Start with a much simpler kit before you take on a battleship, you won't regret it.  If you have no experience with PE and other after market accessories, you have a learning curve to overcome.  Believe me, nearly four years back into building, I'm still learning how to master PE and a host of other skills.  I think you are setting yourself up for some serious frustration and a really bad experience that could drive you away from a great hobby if you tackle a complex battleship and PE upgrade set as your first effort. 

You might want to take a look at a build thread over on the World Affairs forum.  A guy did a complete build thread on his Missouri and it will give you a great idea of what you are taking on.  Here is the link to that thread:   http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/modelers-corner/60395-building-tamiya-missouri-super-detailing.html

Check that out and then decide for yourself, but believe me, you are getting good advice here to start small, then work up to that dream project.  After all, when you do build that dream project you want to have the skills to do it justice.

Bob

You sound like you are fired up for this.NOT GOOD ENOUGH ! The lack of experience with p.e. will have you wishing you had never seen either the kit or the p.e.! I go along with the recommendation of a starter ship.The TAMIYA "FLETCHER" comes to mind.By all means use GOLD MEDAL MODELS p.e. Now the LION ROAR set isn,t bad, but , it,s NOT for beginners.When I tackled the U.S.S. NORTH CAROLINA in 1/350 I got the recommended EDUARD p.e. set.It was an interesting experience.The only thing in the kit of p.e. was the large radar.G.M.M. and TOMS have the frame and rings ,but , no mesh.This, EDUARD HAS.

I have since gone on to many ships.I was interested to figure it out and discovered the aforementioned ship and p.e. was my first kit using p.e. I had actually never used it on a ship before.I had used it on cars, but , that was the limit of my experience.I wouldn,t build anything at 1/200 or below without p.e.now. - - TANKERbuilder

I have to agree with the above advice.  Unless you have a few ships successfully built under your belt, don't attempt a project like this as your first or even second project out of the gate.  Lots and lots of repetitive work which can become both boring and overwhelming.  Also, if you are planning to use after market PE, then you have to coordinate the kit instructions with the PE instructions, some of which aren't the best, to figure out what to do when.  It can get very, very complicated.  Even if you do  have a couple of ships under your belt, be prepared to go slow and don't expect rapid progress.  Take your time - better to build slowly and get it right the first time than to have to try to go back and fix something you have missed or messed up.

I'll also second the recommendation on the LionRoar PE set.  I have the Missouri and that set and I can tell you that both are quite complicated.  I have a half dozen completed builds under my belt since coming back to the hobby and I'm approaching the Missouri with the LionRoar super update set like I would a wild animal - very cautiously.  Quite frankly, I'm planning on gaining even more experience with complex PE before I jump into this project.

Bob

Krakan

So I'm in the planning phase of building the USS Wisconsin from the 1/350 scale Tamiya kit of the USS Missouri.

I would like to add some PE or resin detail sets and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the Eduard or Gold Medal Models sets, or if I should just go all out for the Lion Roar super detail set.

Have you ever done a ship using an extensive photo etch set?    If not:

1)  get a 'learner kit' - an inexpensive ship with phototech to learn the techniques.   Inexpensive, so it isn't as painful when you screw up - because you will.   A smaller kit is recommended so that you will see it through to completion - not be bored by the repetitive process of building & detailing dozens of 20mm cannon or tens of 5"/38s.  My recommendations are the Tamiya Fletcher or the Trumpeter England.

2)  the LionRoar set may be overkill for a NOOB.   Lots of very small parts with complex folds.   Gold Medal Models has been in the business the longest and still may the best in producing workable aftermarket PE sets for ships. 

Krakan

 
Also, does anyone know if the Wisconsin wore camo or haze gray during the korean war?

Haze.   Disruptive camouflage measures were being discontinued before the end of the war  and colors were reverting to neutral due to the expense of the blue pigments.    Note too that while the destroyers and cruisers reverted to larger hull numbers,  the Wisconsin retained the WWII-era small, unshaded hull number format.