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USS Missouri Build

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  • Member since
    March, 2012
USS Missouri Build
Posted by oscarwray on Friday, March 23, 2012 9:43 PM

Greetings! 

I am new to the idea of forums for modeling...guess everything is on the internet, wish I had known this years ago! Just a bit of an intro as this is my first post. I am 30 years old and I teach high school sciences. I build models during the off times of school and I have been modeling off and on since I was a kid. I have always build cars but I am interested in getting into building ships. I am halfway through building the large USS Consitution (Revells kit) and have loved it. I am not a history buff but I do enjoy learning about the models I am building. 

That being said I just ordered the Tamiya 1/350 MIssouri and the lion roar super detail set to go with it. I cannot wait to get started on her! However, I am in need of some good reference materials. I am planning on building the end of WWII version (Japanese surrender). I did a search on here and one guy was talking about floating dry dock ebook downloads but all the sites I can find are scams or advertising gimmicks. Any thoughts on a good photographic book? Also, because I am a total ship newbie, was the deck of Missouri wood planked? I think it was, and if it was, should I plank the deck or not? Was her deck wood finished or cammo for the ceremony? I saw a few threads but the answers were unclear at best. Look forward to starting on this as soon as the kits arrive in the mail. I will be posting pics of the entire build (I could not find one on here with search, if you know of one, links please!).

Oscar 

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Friday, March 23, 2012 10:14 PM

http://floatingdrydock.com/books.html#PB

Order with confidence directly from Tom Walkowiak at Floating Drydock.  Item # BBPB-CD

He takes plastic or Paypal

Decks were stained  20B - Weather Deck Blue at the time of the surrender.   

  • Member since
    February, 2012
Posted by Squid on Saturday, March 24, 2012 6:16 AM

Oscar goodmorning-Pontos model.com makes a blue deck for the Missouri,which i think is one of the best.I used it on my Miss and it was easy and a perfect fit.

Squid

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Exeter, MO
Posted by kustommodeler1 on Saturday, March 24, 2012 6:20 AM

www.navsource.org is awesome for photos of U.S. Navy shipsCowboy

Darrin

Setting new standards for painfully slow buildsDead

  • Member since
    September, 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Saturday, March 24, 2012 12:35 PM

Artwox also makes a blue wooden deck for the Tamiya Missouri in 1/350 scale that provides an excellent fit.  It also costs almost 50% less than any other wooden deck for the kit.  I bought it for my conversion to the 1943 USS New Jersey and I am very satisfied with it.

Bill

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Monday, March 26, 2012 8:58 AM

Thanks for the replies, I ordered the pontos deck, it was cheaper and easier to find than the artwox. Should have the model and PE kit in this week, so I should be getting started on it this weekend!

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Monday, March 26, 2012 11:31 AM

I'm anxious to see you start your build thread on this one.  I have Missouri in my stash with the LionRoar super detail set.  I haven't yet decided on using the wooden deck, having no experience with them.  You have your hands full, I suspect.  If you want to see an in depth build thread of a U.S.S. Missouri w/Eduard PE there is one over on the World Affairs Board: http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/modelers-corner/60395-building-tamiya-missouri-super-detailing.html

This guy really went all out, even soldering his PE.  The result is stunning, but well beyond my abilities.  You might find the thread helpful, though, as he discusses his problems as well as the stuff he does well.

Bob

 

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Thursday, March 29, 2012 9:30 AM

First, thanks for the all the replies! I got some goodies from the UPS man yesterday. I hope to have the model in soon, the guy I bought it from on ebay did not include a tracking number...

 

Here are some photos:

 

Tons of tiny tiny PE parts. 18 frets in all. Lots of resin parts as well and some good looking brass barrels. 

IMG_0144

Pontos deck. Looks pretty good lots of little pieces to cut out. Unsure of how to attach to deck of ship, guessing some white glue, gonna experiment with the sections that go on the upper small decks first. 

IMG_0146

Really tiny bells. For comparison, the extra resin on the resin parts is about as tall as a dime!

IMG_0143

 

IMG_0142

 

IMG_0145

  • Member since
    September, 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Thursday, March 29, 2012 11:31 AM

If I may ask, how much was the Pontos deck?  I bought my Artwox for $33.00 from Pacific Front Hobbies, a division of Free Time Hobbies online.

As for attaching the deck, it should already have its own adhesive, just peel and stick it on.

Good luck!

Bill

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Thursday, March 29, 2012 11:40 AM

Oscar is that the FlyHawk super detail set for the U.S.S. Missouri?  If so, have that one myself (fortunately the C-in-C never found out what it cost!).  I'm still debating about the wooden deck.  I like the idea of a pre-painted deck blue deck, but I've never used a wooden deck before, so I'm a little reluctant to take on something new on a build that already promises to be a real tough go with all that after market and all of the repetitious work on the AA fit, etc...

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Thursday, March 29, 2012 11:59 AM

warshipguy

If I may ask, how much was the Pontos deck?  I bought my Artwox for $33.00 from Pacific Front Hobbies, a division of Free Time Hobbies online.

As for attaching the deck, it should already have its own adhesive, just peel and stick it on.

Good luck!

Bill

 

robtmelvin

Oscar is that the FlyHawk super detail set for the U.S.S. Missouri?  If so, have that one myself (fortunately the C-in-C never found out what it cost!).  I'm still debating about the wooden deck.  I like the idea of a pre-painted deck blue deck, but I've never used a wooden deck before, so I'm a little reluctant to take on something new on a build that already promises to be a real tough go with all that after market and all of the repetitious work on the AA fit, etc...

Bob

Bob - It is the Lion Roar set. I am still my own C-in-C and I can't kick my own dumb@$$ for dropping 160 bucks on it (ebay!)! 

Bill - Ponotos painted deck was 29.99 from Sprue bros. I thought the back might be self adhesive but had problems getting the backing off of the small test section I removed last night. I will try again once I get closer to install time. It will be a while...did you see all the PE...think I might have dove in too far ! Oops

 

 

  • Member since
    February, 2012
Posted by Squid on Friday, March 30, 2012 5:15 AM

Oscar all those little parts on the pontos deck will pop right out with the point of your knife,very little has to be cut.You don't need any glue just peal and stick.

Squid

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Monday, April 02, 2012 10:46 AM

Well, Friday I got the kit and the rest of the AM parts from L'arsenal that I am going to use (foredeck replacement is the box next to the lion roar detail set). Here is a shot of all the stuff, ready for building. 

 

IMG_0148

Everyone got a bath on Saturday and I let them air dry overnight.

I started on the turrets yesterday, I shaved off the ladders from the first turret and attached all the appropriate plastic parts first. Today I am going to start attaching the PE to the first turret. I tried a technique for the ladders I read on this forum for the ladders, I cut out the plastic covering on the front and rear of the ladder on the PE fret. I then took a brand new #11 blade and bent the rungs of each ladder into position. I then cut the ladder off of the fret and bent the end of each ladder back slightly so the ladder will not be flush with turret. I will try to post some photos of the process (and progress) tonight. 

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Monday, April 02, 2012 11:47 AM

This is getting more interesting all the time.  I also have the L'Arsenal foredeck which on examination looks fantastic.  I can't wait to see you have a chance to get to work on the Mighty Mo.  You're making me want to pull mine out of the stash, but I have a couple of builds I really need to finish before I strap on a project like this one.  I usually keep a couple of projects going on simultaneously, but the Missouri looks like she's going to be one of those builds that will require 100% of my attention when I do build her.  So, get Trumpy's 1/350 North Carolina and Italieri's 1/35 P.T. 596 completed, then on to the Missouri.  Good luck with your build, I'm anxious to see how things go.

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Monday, April 02, 2012 11:56 PM

Thanks Bob! I am super excited to get rolling. This will be the only project I am working on for now other than the occasional breaks to rig the sails on the constitution you may have spotted on the top of my desk in one or two of the photos. Got the front ladders installed today, here is a few shots of the ladders in progress of being bent and coerced into position, super glue driers really fast and sticks to your fingers, but I cannot wear nitrile gloves because I need the dexterity. Sad 

Shot of ladder ends bent into position so they stand up and are not flush against the turret. Behind is one of the buoy baskets and the brackets for them.  

IMG_0159

Shot of ladders in place

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Here is a shot of the buoy bag boxes, can't remember the technical term, those containers that hold all the buoys for sunken ship scenario all tied together with a rope, before and after folding. There are two containers on each turret and each container has three very small brackets that have to be bent in half and then the flat arms that attach to the turret fold out.. The before shots of those are the ones right below the dime. The baskets look like small grilles of a jeep before being folded into shape. 

Before shot of the ladders (next to dime) I used today and the baskets (top).

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Brackets below the dime.

IMG_0155

 

Finally, here is a shot of todays progress. Got a few small flat pieces of PE also in place. Please let me know if I am posted too many shots, and excuse the quality of the pictures, I am trying to locate my digital camera. Taking photos with the iPhone for now.

 

IMG_0161

  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 3:59 AM

Off to a very nice start. Will watch this one with interest....Cheers Mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 8:25 AM

Oscar, looking very good so far.  BTW, those are called floater net baskets. 

I have the same problem with the CA glue sticking to my fingers.  Have you tried either white glue or Gator's Glue?  Gator's Glue is like a white glue on steroids.  It seems to work best if thinned with a little water and brushed on both the PE part and the connection point on the model.  It holds really well when dried and dries clear.  I'm learning to use white glue more and more when using PE.  It is much more forgiving than CA and isnt' nearly as bad to stick the PE to your fingers.  It also has better shear strength than CA (so I'm told) when dried.  Either good old Elmer's white glue or Gator's Glue will work in place of CA.

Keep up the great work and I'll be looking forward to your next update.

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 1:09 PM

I have gots ta keep an eye on this one.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 8:38 PM

Had a partial day off thanks to a trip to the dentist so even though my mouth was numb, my hands were not. Got all three turrets almost done. Just have to do the floater net baskets on the last two. Here is a shot of all three. Had a hard time getting the barrels lined up but since I am planning on doing a cammo paint job, I will tell people that they are aiming at different targets! Big Smile

 

photo

Does anyone know if the ship in cammo paint had the same red bottom and black water line coloration? Thanks

  • Member since
    November, 2005
  • From: Bryan, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 11:09 PM

Yes, red bottom and black waterline stripe (technical term is "boot topping")

Painting the boot-top had two effects.  One, was to "hide" the under-body color.  But, the real reason was that oil and soot and the like from the harbor did not show as much against the black (the green scummy stuff?  not so much).  Boot topping often gets wider in wartime, to allow for more change in draft between full paintings.

The red color was, to an extend from the metal content in the paint to help prevent marine life from adhering to the hull.

There is a great deal of debate (the search function here will get you scads of threads to read) on what color the screws (aka propellers) ought be painted.  The old builder's models had hand-crafted miniatures made from brass, so that was the color they had on the models.  In real life the screws are cast in a phosphor-bronze which has a color range from a pale chocolate to a dark gold.  personally, I like a dark gold with a brown--burnt sienna--wash; but, that's me, others differ.

Further, there's debate on whether the shafts from the stuffing boxes to the prop struts ought be bottom color or screw color.  Painting them as separate colors is striking, particularly with those long outboard shafts.  You will likely want to clear a couple of hours and go prowl the NavSource photos and make your own choice.

A note on weathering.  The Iowa-class ships were flagships, they generally embarked an admiral of some sort, and the sort of staff that becoming an O-8 on up entails.  Admirals and/or their staffs fond of white-washed rock neatness and ship-shape.  It's also easier to keep up the paint on the superstructure while underway.  So, the hull can be 'dirtier' than the rest of the ship.  Places more than, oh, 12-15' up from a deck may show more wear (from not being repainted so much).

In the same vein, the ground tackle--the anchor chains and their fittings will be kept up more than they might on a smaller ship.  The handwheels on the capstans probably ought be left "bright" from the photo-etch fret, as they would be polished.  I like a panzer gray for the non-skid, and a semi-gloss black for the chain. 

Oh, and something to watch for in the photos, some of the steel decks (like around the signal flag station) are covered in a russet-leather-colored linoleum.  The linoleum is supposed to be treated with the same deck stain as the rest of the deck, but, that might depend on whether the Admiral was in his Whites or not.

Which is one of the best things about ship modeling, you can pick and choose all sorts of minutiae to include, or not include.on your kit.

  • Member since
    March, 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 1:22 AM

CapnMac82

Which is one of the best things about ship modeling, you can pick and choose all sorts of minutiae to include, or not include.on your kit.

Amen to that and why I like it. Kind of hard to get guff from a rivet counter when they've never seen a real ship out of the water, much less one on brass pedestals, much less one with no humans on deck. More of an art than a science, although those two subjects are hopelessly intertwined.

Like the Akagi over there to the right.... good looking model.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 10:47 AM

CapnMac82 - Thanks for the info, I am going to be getting the paints ordered for the hull in the next day or so. Tonight I am going to get the hull sanded and masked for the bottom red coat. There are some raised lines on the hull from the mold that have to be removed. 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 11:03 AM

Oscar, what camo scheme are you planning to use on her?  Just out of curiousity, what type of paint are you planing on using, acrylic or enamel?

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 11:16 AM

robtmelvin

Oscar, what camo scheme are you planning to use on her?  Just out of curiousity, what type of paint are you planing on using, acrylic or enamel?

Bob

Bob - I am going to paint her 32/22D (late war cammo, not going for a specific date, I just like the ship cammo from the war). One other reason is that it makes my first ship project easier to do. I can build it and then just mask and paint all the sections without having to worry about the details. I am still waiting on my floating dry dock book to come in, I screwed up when ordering and did not get it the first time. It is on its way as of Monday. 

I plan to try to use acrylics (will be a first, usually use enamels) but I do not know what is the best paint for ships. For my cars, I have always used humbrol enamels (brushed because for humbrol does not leave paint brush marks) but I do not want to use them on this project. I recently acquired an airbrush and I want to use it with acrylics first because of the ease of cleanup and the lowered toxicity is a bonus. Thoughts, ideas? I know Tamiya has a large line of acrylics available at my LHS but my guy can order any brand. Also, do you think acrylics will stick to the PE parts or will I need to primer up first? If so, what primer do y'all use? 

  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 7:15 PM

Life Color makes 2 sets of US Navy paint colors called  US Navy WWII set 1 and set 2 both sets are numbered CS 24 and CS 25 CS standing for camouflage set. And there are 6 colors in each set for a total of 12 colors. 

oscarwray

 robtmelvin:

Oscar, what camo scheme are you planning to use on her?  Just out of curiousity, what type of paint are you planing on using, acrylic or enamel?

Bob

 

Bob - I am going to paint her 32/22D (late war cammo, not going for a specific date, I just like the ship cammo from the war). One other reason is that it makes my first ship project easier to do. I can build it and then just mask and paint all the sections without having to worry about the details. I am still waiting on my floating dry dock book to come in, I screwed up when ordering and did not get it the first time. It is on its way as of Monday. 

I plan to try to use acrylics (will be a first, usually use enamels) but I do not know what is the best paint for ships. For my cars, I have always used humbrol enamels (brushed because for humbrol does not leave paint brush marks) but I do not want to use them on this project. I recently acquired an airbrush and I want to use it with acrylics first because of the ease of cleanup and the lowered toxicity is a bonus. Thoughts, ideas? I know Tamiya has a large line of acrylics available at my LHS but my guy can order any brand. Also, do you think acrylics will stick to the PE parts or will I need to primer up first? If so, what primer do y'all use? 

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Thursday, April 05, 2012 8:48 AM

Ok, not much done last night because I ran into some trouble. I was putting the PE on the towers for the #2 and #3 turrets (more on this later as well, some ridiculously small and numerous parts to put in) and realized the parts are wrong. The instructions call for ladders on each side of the little towers (may be a different term for these, I am not a salty-savy term person Embarrassed ) and they were too long.

Shot of the called for ladder (part 14 on the lion super detail set) on part G38 from the kit. Also next to the original ladder is the cut-to-fit ladder from the same part. 

IMG_0165

 

Shot of the ladder before and after cutting. 

 

IMG_0164

 

Ladder glued in place

 

IMG_0166

 

There are some little hoist parts that attach to the top of the turrets and hang off the side (I assume for lifting ammo and other heavy items into the areas below the main guns) that I got folded last night and will attach today. They look much better than the plastic parts included with the kit. That is why the turrets have the putty on top, I was filling in the holes that the hoists plastic parts fit into. Looking forward to getting a lot done in the next 5 days. I am off after noon today and do not have to be back to work until Tuesday!

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Thursday, April 05, 2012 12:41 PM

Looking good Oscar.  And, in my experience, LionRoar is not the easiest PE to work with, nor do they have the best instructions.  Keep up the great work.

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

  • Member since
    March, 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Sunday, April 08, 2012 12:51 PM

*laughs* When is "red" not "red" - When it goes on the bottom of a ship, of course!

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by oscarwray on Monday, April 09, 2012 8:13 PM

Ok, this will be a large update from my four day weekend fun! Had some family fun on Sunday with the Jetskis and fishing. First, I cleaned up the lines on the hull from the casting. There was a raised line running down the entire centerline of the hull and around the areas where the screws attach. I sanded them down starting with 150 grit and worked up to 1000 grit. Here is a few shots of before and after:

Before

IMG_0169 IMG_0168 IMG_0167

After, the sanding scratches will be taken care of with primer later. It does not look like it, but it is smooth to the touch.

IMG_0170 IMG_0189 IMG_0188

I also opened up the holes for the rudders and installed the outside screw shaft holders as they are the same color as the bottom of the hull. I also masked the hull in preparation for when I get in the red paint for the hull. Hopefully, my guy in San Antonio said he can get all the paint I need in about a week or so.

I then turned my attention to the foredeck from l'arsenal. One side of the deck fit perfectly, the other side had lots of rough edges and some large resin blocks from the casting that had to be removed. It took a lot of sanding and removing to get the deck to fit correctly and I am still not pleased with the result, more sanding will be required. I added a few parts to the foredeck as well.  

For comparison, both foredecks side by side. 

IMG_0173

Better shot of the front side of each. 

IMG_0175 IMG_0174

This gap will have to filled somehow, still noodleing how to do that...Confused

IMG_0178

Seam before I fixed most of it. 

IMG_0177

Same seam after, not the perfect fit on the port side straight out of the box, too bad both sides were not the same.

IMG_0181

When I got bored...I started on the 40mm bofors. The kit calls for 16 sets of quads and I have enough for 20 sets from the lion roar set. I am going to have to look at the floating dry dock plans once I get to work tomorrow, I have no CD drive on my laptop. More issues with the lion roar set, the instructions call for parts P1 and P2 to be the base of the boors and then call for part P1 to be the gun pedestal as well. The base parts are actually C1 and C2. Took a little while to figure that out! Attaching the seats gunsights to the bofors is frustrating, and I may leave them off as they are so small and cannot be seen very well. 

IMG_0187

See the really really same part, that is the seat and foot rest for the operator. Barely bigger than the ear on the dime! Here is my first 40mm bofors done, I was not pleased with the result and I am paying much more attention to the rest. 

IMG_0186

More to come later

Cheers

Oscar

  • Member since
    July, 2010
  • From: Harlan, Kentucky, U.S.A.
Posted by robtmelvin on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 8:49 AM

Good work, Oscar.  The PE looks really good.  Also gives me an idea of what I'm in for with that L'Arsenal foredeck.  Keep up the great work and I'll be looking forward to your next update.

Bob

Just launched:  Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.

Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.

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