Ditching the molded shrouds....

David_K

So, I decided to forego the molded shroud/ratline assemblies on the 1:150 Revell Vasa and try rigging my own.

Now I'm approaching the steps for masts/shroud installation....looking over the parts, I notice that the panels where the deadeyes attach (don't know what they're called?) have only little dimples where the molded shroud/ratline/deadeye would rest upon.  If I use thread, how should I attach it to that panel??

Should I remove the deadeyes from each of the shroud parts and use them to rig my thread onto?  And how do I actually attach the thread onto the deadeye?  Drill holes in them for the thread to pass through?

I'm full of questions!

Thanks!

David 

I found a site that had all of the sprue shots, so I had a chance to think about this a little. Here's what i think you need to do. The main shrouds are fastened to platforms sticking out from the sides of the ship called channels. Actually they aren't really connected to them , but to a series of straps or chains called chain plates that are secured to the hull proper some distance below.

If you cut all of the deadeye/ lanyard assemblies loose, I am afraid you are lost. it'll be impossible to put it all together again.

Ships later typically had a footboard that was lashed in just above the top deadeye, but apparently on Wasa the shrouds just go up and the footropes start.

You should cut all of the shrouds off just above the first horizontal stick that's supposed to be a footrope. Man those things look bad. Them as an assembly glue the whole thing securely to the channel. it might even help to get a few little pins in there, but if you make a good connection to the channel you will be ok. You'll have to judge the angle, but that's not too hard. Just tell any old Swede who questions you that the captain had the good sense to invent the use of a foot board at the bottom.

The usual way to attach a shroud to a deadeye is to wrap it around the outside and "seize" it which you can look up what that means. This is smaller scale though. I'd simple tie each shroud around the top of where the top deadeye is connected to the "footboard", in a simple half hitch, drop of glue and bring the shroud up from the back side. Up, over the top, down the other side and tie off. This is where the strength that you give to the deadeye/ channel connection will be tested. If the deadeye rack pops off halfway along, you'll be a very sad man. So do your chains/ channel deadeye set up stoutly.

This ship has a LOT of shrouds. I really think they alone will so test your patience, that you'll find them to be enough without the footropes.

 

Thanks again, Bondoman! This is great advice!

Yes, the shroud parts from the kit look awful!  It's like Revell was designing the kit, and someone said, "Shrouds?  Just take a bunch of these plastic Fly Swatters and cut them into triangles, call it good."

I ordered a pin vise set from Amazon last night (be here Friday), I  think I'll make the divots on the Channels a little more substantial to accommodate the Deadeye ends....maybe even go all the way through so I can get them glued securely?  I like the idea of cutting off the deadeyes and making a footboard out of the lowermost *rope*....then I can just tie off the shrouds at the appropriate place.

Can't wait to try it out!  And yes, I think I'll save the ratline rigging for another kit...this one's going to give me a run for my money already!  AND, I still have to figure out the gun door situation....But tonight I'm taking a break from the ship and going to put a clear coat of Future on a recent Tamiya Porsche that I built.

I really appreciate the help!  I sometimes wonder if the experienced members here get annoyed by the many questions from newbies, but I hope you all get a sense of helpfulness from the *mentoring*  :)

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the horizontal "steps" are attached to the stays so you will be adding some more stays to the masts. when you are ready to do the horizontal "steps" the usual ways guys in my ship club do this is: cut a piece of paper the will cover the intire area of the ratlines. draw all the lines, horizintal and vertical on the paper attach that behind the stays this allows you to keep the "steps" equidistant start adding the "steps" using clove hitches secure all knots with a drop of diluted white glue. NOTE some folks use diluted cya but there is a debate on whether this rots the lines 5-6 years later most guys in my club do not use the micronarh off the model ratline maker. rigging is like photoetch takes a while to do a little. usually this is why i have kits in various stages. i can pe for a bit, than build a big tank hull, maybe airbrush something, get a cuppa, do some more pe or rigging.

So, last night I got the masts in and rigged the shrouds for the foremast/hull....looks way better than the lame-o plastic mesh parts that came with the kit!

Thanks for the advice, Bondoman!  I took your suggestion and removed the deadeyes from the *ropes*, used a pin vise to drill out the holes in the channels, attached the deadeye *racks* and ran the line up and over the other side...looks pretty good!

I don't know if you have a Facebook account, but here's a link (public view) to my Vasa Album, showing some of the build progress....the last few pics I took last night show the latest shroud rigging....I'll probably get the main mast done tonight, and maybe have all the shrouds finished by the weekend!  No ratlines, though...I feel that would be too much for me to handle at this scale/skill level!

BTW, now that the shrouds are going on, I'm realizing that my access to the deck and masts is going to be severely limited once I move on to the rest of the standing rigging....is it recommended to do the shrouds first, or do some people wait until later to put the shrouds on, so they can reach all the pinrails, bits, etc., while rigging???

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150652386816312.389965.582946311&type=3

 

Thanks!

David

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