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jeffpez It's hard to tell looking at a photo on a computer but to my eye yours looks far better than my Tamiya buff and more like the way it appears today in Philidelphia. Good for you, too late for me.
It's hard to tell looking at a photo on a computer but to my eye yours looks far better than my Tamiya buff and more like the way it appears today in Philidelphia. Good for you, too late for me.
White and buff (tan?) was an extremely popular color for navies around the world at the beginning of the 20th Century. I suspect each country had their own tint of "buff." Further, there is almost no way of finding out exactly what the colors actually were. Film photography was not very accurate in its color fidelity even in the few examples of color photography of the period. I doubt if there are any color "chips" for any of those colors. So almost any buff or tan may be appropriate. A century later it would be almost impossible to argue either way on any color. The best representations might be on paintings done by an experienced artist, but you'd have to see the original painting, as digital photography is better than film for color rendition, but still far from perfect, and printed artwork (as from a printing press) makes things even worse if you look at books or magazines or other printed material.
So if it looks good, go with it. I had always used a mix of flat yellow and tan, a little more saturated than the sandgelb. I like the idea of some differences in color, so will likely only use the sandgelb when I do more US ships from that era.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Don - BRIGHT flashlight, dental mirror and a pair of long, angle-nosed tweezers and you may just get lucky!
On the other hand, as you say, you're probably the only one who will even notice the missing railing!
jeffpez What is the actual tan color you used?
What is the actual tan color you used?
I used Model Master Sandgelb. I think it is a German Armor color. Looks like a good buff to me.
Lets us know how you make out!
Watchmann Looks real nice, Don! Do you know the approximate location of the rail? Could you put some water in the hull and slosh it around the part, maybe it will come loose? m@
Looks real nice, Don!
Do you know the approximate location of the rail? Could you put some water in the hull and slosh it around the part, maybe it will come loose?
m@
I have no idea, though I assume it didn't get too far. I do have one of those dentist's mirrors. Maybe if I shine a light down the rear funnel hole while looking through the front hole with the mirror. If I don't find it I am just hoping no one will notice the missing railing.
BTW, when I did the original post, I meant to show a WIP shot. Here it is.
The yellow stripe on the hull is Tamiya masking tape- I was still painting the black stripe at edge of deck.
Or put a piece of tape over the hole.
I've lost more than a few parts inside airplanes, which I then ran some white glue in there and shook it till it stopped rattling.
I forgot to put the wooden deck on the top of the pilot house until after the railings were dry and fixed in place. When the discussion was going on about the boarding stairs and the position of the anchors I was tempted (but didn't) to mention that I destroyed the port side PE stairs by dropping them in my lap. Thinking it had fallen to the floor I pushed back the chair and bent over to look. Do you know what a pretzel looks like? The ladder is down on one side and missing on the other. I'll give you credit for admitting your mistake although it sounds like bad luck rather than having made an error.
I had a similar-ish problem a while back, but luckily without the glue. An internally fitted refelling probe recessed "box" came unstuck long after zipping the fuselage together, with no access to the area & only a long 3-4mm wide slot on the nose where it fitted (which there was now way it would fit through).
Luckily I hadn't fitted the exhausts & managed to shake it out through one of the holes. I fed some thread through the probe slot, out the exhaust hole, then through a hole in the probe "box" & glued the thread onto the underside of the box. After a bit of shaking & cajoling the box reappeared where it should be, a bit of adhesive applied through the gap with a touch-n-flow & a pull on the string & things were back to where they should have been a fair time before.
I suppose I should learn to be more thorough when gluing recessed internal parts
WWW.AIR-CRAFT.NET
We've all been there and done something like this... Hope you find the solution that works best for you
We've all done some thing similar in our lives. I feel your frustration.
I think there must be some universal law out there "If there is a hole some thing will fall into it"
Phil
"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell
Had a big goof yesterday. I had just attached the PE pilot house on the bridge. I thought I'd add the PE railings at that time, so the area would not be obscured by masts, stacks and stuff. Bad idea! I was working on the rear section first. Using my normal thinned white glue, I had the piece on, and tried to adjust its position slightly. It fell off- falling rearward. The forward stack is not to be mounted until a later step, leaving a gaping hole where the stack goes. The railing went directly down the hole! Of course, it had some glue on it. I shook the model and didn't here anything, but turned the model upside down and shook like anything- nothing came out. I assume it is well stuck to the hull interior :-( I do have some scrap PE railings in my ship model junk box, but I am afraid I have nothing in that large a scale (the Olympia is 1:232, a Revell box scale). I either scratch that railing, or fit an undersize one! Recommendation- if you work on bridge or pilothouse railings at that step, at least fit the stacks temporarily in place to preclude a similar experience. Boy, I feel dumb!
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