Expirience Modelers Wanted!!!

Likewise Pianodog, how are you getting on with your build? Enquiring minds want to know!

Kev.

Hey pianodog, any new updates on the build?

Good wisdom. White glue is a great masking material for round spots like "port holes".

Toothpicks are the best modeling tools. I go through a box of 250 every model, but that's $ 1.79 at Bi Rite, and they compost in the land fill.

Applying glue, paint, sliding decals, and sticking up parts on a sheet of foam for the spray booth.

Only thing I've never used them for is an actual model component. Too crude.

Fortape you really can't beat Tamiya Tape, but for windows that small I usually like to use Elmer's White Glue and a toothpick. Hard to mess up (scratch) the surface with the wood, and if you mess up you can either wipe it off or let it dry and pick it off. You have to learn how it sticks to the surface... usually you'll get a circular dot that you can then push around a but to spread it out. Sometimes sharp corners you have to fill with a sharp knife, but the glue will act a bit as a lubricant so that if you touch the clear with the tip it won't scratch unless you REALLY prang into it.

Hello again, anyone can tell me a good masking tape for clear canopies, I would like to use it to mask the helos by Trumpeter models, they're very small so I need a good masking tape. Thank you all.

Ha ha ha ha, no my friend I am not that rusty and rudders are not gold I still this that is room to fix this, if others can I can do it too, so a little more work but what a hell that is the hobby, so more sanding, more putty, more sanding, more glue, and will come great =) I'll keep you posted with pictures of this retaking and this adventure... funny thing I took this model because I thought it was going to be the easer to make from the ones I have in my storage, maybe I should of start with something else ha ha ha.

bondoman

You have reached the point where it might as well be finished from either one viewing angle, or made to look like your avatar. Either way, whatever, it's a plastic model.

I really hope that the rudders are not painted gold.

I think the kit is crappy, based on how it fought you.

You have reached the point where it might as well be finished from either one viewing angle, or made to look like your avatar. Either way, whatever, it's a plastic model.

I really hope that the rudders are not painted gold.

I think the kit is crappy, based on how it fought you.

Ha ha ha ha!!!!! Sorry I had to laugh, this tells you how rusty my building has come to... oh boy I think I am going to go crazy with this, can you believe that I already put together the propellers and the rudders (with gold paint) and also give the hull two hands of red hull, ha ha ha ha I see that all that is going to waist because I forgot about the sims, dents, fills and etc. How can I remove the already mention parts without braking them? Or should I just mask that part? I think I am going to rename the model as  the "USS Experience Modelers"

put them together as might have same problem as what you had with the bow, better safe then sorry.

Oh, you will want to definitely put the bottom on before any painting, because you will need to fill it's seam too. Haven't started on my Enterprise yet, but here's a pic of my Ronald Reagan.

As you can see, the bottom needs to be fitted as well. I use red putty. Now it's ready for a coat of primer to check my shaping work.  And when you are done, there will be putty left, as it is a filler too, in order to get rid of any low spots on either side of the seam. If you sand all of it off, you've defeated the purpose of applying it. Hope this helps

First, I would like to thank all of you that have taken the time to answer and give me tips on my re taking of modeling, yet I have one more building question, the hull it's divided in two parts the bottom part has de propellers and upper part is the one that I have work on, my question is, can I finish up the bottom part, paint, and coating before assembling or should I wait until they are all together? I have the feeling that finishing before will simplify the construction, let me know what you guys think, and thank you again.

AHOY THERE, MATEY ! The advice you have been given is spot on(no pun intended) Any ship I build that has structure like yours gets ALL the locator pins cut off. Then , I carefully glue the bow together (as said, everyone starts there) and let it dry for at least a day or two,while making sure your glue application was very slight at best.I switched to the TAMIYA brand and haven,t regretted it yet.

 Now that the bow is dry you need to move to the stern.Glue it together even if the pieces are out of whack.As long as they are the same height from top to bottom you have a home run.Let everything sit for another few days.Now , take some credit card thickness plastic, glue together the mid point  locators. Make sure the hull at the flight deck is absolutely level,or that deck will NOT fit right.

When you have let everything set , then sand it all down by wet sanding with 320 grit.If you need filler ,use it now.After you get it all smooth then take a board.YUP,a board.About 24 inches long and wrap it in sandpaper and proceed to lightly WET sand the bottom ,so the ship bottom has a nice straight surface to bond to.

Don,t sand it to vigourously.Now glue on the bottom using TAMIYA masking tape spaced two inches apart then come back and tape in between the original tape.Now carefully apply TEENSY drops of glue.Let this sit for at least a full two days.When it comes to gluing styrene time here is your friend here,NOT your enemy.

The glue sets a chemical melting process that takes time to gas out.Whe it,s dry it is very strong.Check a spot easy to fill with putty with your fingernail.If it makes a dent the joint isn,t set yet .Give it another day and go listen some good music and have a lemonade and return tomorrow.  GOOD LUCK   TANKER-builder

Sorry wrong picture before. 

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Well, after finishing the sanding from yesterdays application of white putty I think it's coming along well, still has a little thing and the junction with the lower part of the model, I don't know if I should fix it now or after it is glue to the bottom part, suggestions? Comments anyone?

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I do have some with those grits, by the way, for how long do you guys let the putty stay in the model before sanding? Sorry about the questions but if there is no label I need to ask, and QUICK DRY is not a good timer for me =)

ddp59

get some coarser sandpaper like 120 to 200grit.

He's right.  You'll knock yourself out and create all kinds of unnecessary hard work using such fine sandpaper. 

I usually start off with a disposible finger nail emery board for the tough stuff, then gradually use progressively finer grades until the seam is smooth.

I also make my own sanding sticks by gluing toothpicks to the sandpaper, then cutting them apart.  It helps for those hard to reach areas.

For the grades of sandpaper (make sure it's "wet and dry" sandpaper; I recently tried some "not wet and dry," using water, and had a disintegration issue), I use 240, 320, 400 and 600.  I haven't needed to use any finer than this.

Sanding is one of those necessary evils--although maybe some actually like it.

Good luck.

get some coarser sandpaper like 120 to 200grit.

First I would like to thank of all of you that have taken the time to answer my questions, now here are the tools that I have for sanding and the white putty that I am using, I would like to mention that I was going to purchase the green putty that I had an experience with it however the sales person at my local hobby shop said that were the same, I think not. If you can recommend specific brands and also good sanding tools I'll appreciated, have a great week you all.

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You really made me laugh this time, thank you for all your words, my wife laugh like crazy yesterday when I told her what you said, I would like to add you as friend if you don't mine =) once again thank you

I'm reasonably sure it's the same kit - I did a LOT of scratchbuilding on that island, mate, including new upper levels, new mast, etc. It's called good modeling when it works and #$&^##&*$ when it doesn't

I agree with Tracy. I would try several applications of thinly applied green putty, sanding between each application.  Shape the bow as you go by spreading the putty and sand it to shape.  I would not saw the hull apart at this point.

Bill

First of all. I don't know why you care about anything but the bow and stern.

Cut it apart or else it's all a waste of time and the putty will always show through any paint job you think will hide it.

First rule in my experience- model paint is REALLY thin and hides NOTHING.

Second- we are smarter than the model designers and use their products as a BASE for good models.

Cut that ship apart again. Study if one half is longer than the other. They can often be. Decide how to solve that problem. Usually I look at the bow first as the natural inclination of the viewer is to start there. Fit it together and if the stern refuses to cooperate, see how thick the plastic is back there and if there's enough to host a major sanding party. That'd be my first choice.

Yes cut off the alignment pins- they are for little kids.

Third rule- to become an experienced modeler, you need to realize that kits are from hell and there are no easy answers. The old adage is "THERE"S NO TIME TO DO IT RIGHT BUT SOMEHOW THERE"S TIME TO DO IT OVER".

Cheers and welcome to this motley crew. We used to have an "ARGGHHHH" component, sadly missed.

Some putty will shrink if you put it on in thick amounts. You might try another application, thinner this time, and see if it is better after a second sanding.

Well, just looking, I too would try Squadron green putty, or what I use, Bondo brand spot and glazing putty. I personally don't like the white putty. It does not chemically adhere to the plastic. However...

From the picture, I think what is happening is your putty is applied in a too perfect a straight line. Don't be afraid to spread it out some, especially toward the low, or sunken side of the joint. And something I learned from experience too, is sandpaper wrapped around your finger will never do when shaping a putty-filled joint. It has to be done with something far more rigid. I use a modeler's file, roughly shaped like a triangle, that has two slightly curved edges, and one truly straight one. Once you get the basic shape done, then you can lightly sand freehand to blend the edges, and apply primer to check your work.

When EdGrune mentioned sawing the seam, I don't think he necessarily meant separate the whole thing, just the bow joint. At least at first. The best thing to do, is lay the flight deck part upside down on a sturdy, hard surface, and then lay your hull halves in place to make them fit it. You will then see what you must do to make the joint at the bow.

If you are going to do a full hull, you can then note what the lower joint(s) will take to fit.

Hope this helps!

Hi mfsob,

That is a great picture, however I think we have a different model, the one I have it's before they did the refit of island superstructure and the fitting of new radar systems. I do hope I don't turn into an alcoholic hahahahaha but thank you for your lines.

I'm guessing from your "on the bench" tagline that this is the oldddddd Revell molding that they've reboxed and are now pedaling as Hunt for Red October? Welcome to , mate, and as others have said, test fit everything, trust nothing, prepare for a lot of do-overs, and if you're not an alcoholic yet, you may be by the time you're done with this one.

But - it can turn out nice if you don't let the kit win:

Well, after sanding as much as I could the putty from yesterday and I still see a line, I guess there is no other option than to cut =(

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However here is the question for all of you my experience modelers, as you can see in the picture bellow, there are four critical points, in the way the ship was molded, which are aline with the bottom par of the ship, how I am supposed to deal with those?

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PDOG

In your future endevors cut off the alignment pins on aircraft or ship models. If the injection molding is off so is the alignment pins, dry fit is a real plus on building a ship's plastic hull. After you cut off the pins, and get the hull "plumb", tape the hull halves  together with masking tape. Run a bead of  plastic glue on the inside of the hull seam. The key thing to remember is you don't need to use the alignment pins on the model. As the  other builders advised you can use Evergreen plastic cut in strips to reinforce the back side of the hull for strength as well as a backing for filler putty. Good Luck.