Olympia rigging questions

Looks even better in person!  Great job Don!

Just realized- finished the model several days ago, and haven't posted a picture yet.  Here goes.

T The base is mahogany, one of my trade mark decaled brass nameplates.  Pretty much out of the box.  Decided to forego boarding ladder.

There was an article in the Chronicle this morning about the Olympia coming back to San Francisco, where she was built.

Not exactly, but to Mare Island just a ways up the Bay.

I would love that, as I have work in Sacramento and drive by Mare Island at least once a week. Also spent a couple of summer months there as a little kid, but that's another story.

Anyhow, that would be great!

EdGrune

I was going to look at the Olympia during the upcoming Squadron Open House.   

But the more I've heard of it,  the more reviews I've read,  the more build comments,  it appears that they've just put lipstick on a pig.   And no matter what you do,  its still a pig.  

Maybe if they're on deep discount (hardly likely) or one is on the scratch & dent table ....

Well they were on deep discount at ScaleFest,  which is held in conjunction with Squadron's Open House.   I picked up one a 50 bucks from the folks at Squadron.    They had a dozen wich I guess they didn't want to carry back to the warehouse.    That price bummed a couple of friends who bought at the 90 dollar price at the Open House.

Its definately a 50 dollar kit.

Picked up several nice ship kits off the scratch & dent table.   None over 5 bucks:  Cyberhobby 1:700 Albany,  Dragon Independence CVL,  Dragon 1:35 LSSC, Dragon 1:35 Sturmboot, and HobbyBoss HMS Astute.  The only thing I paid retail on was an AFV Club 1:350 1943 Gato.  

Missed out on the 60 dollar 1:200 scale Arizona.

Without altering the bridge deck or altering the wood veneer you could shorten the supports enough to clear the foremast shrouds.

Don Stauffer

Discovered a major flaw in the kit!  The rigging of the foremast shrouds doesn't make sense- they would be interfered with by the bridge deck railings.  I asked in another forum (the Seaways mailing list forum). and two folks there referred me to pictures of the Bluejacket kit of the Olympia.  Turns out that kit has a smaller bridge, allowing the shrouds, which are anchored at the boat deck level, to clear the bridge.  One of them referred me to a national archives photo of the Olympia from the fore turret that clearly shows the Bluejacked kit is correct.

If you intend to build the Olympia and are in earliest stages, or haven't started yet, you might consider making the bridge deck slightly smaller, or moved rearward slightly.  The former option would require altering the wooden deck.  It looks like the real deck is as wide as the Encore/Revell kit, but shorter, so the front edge comes towards the center of the ship at a steeper angle, giving clearance for the shrouds.

Discovered a major flaw in the kit!  The rigging of the foremast shrouds doesn't make sense- they would be interfered with by the bridge deck railings.  I asked in another forum (the Seaways mailing list forum). and two folks there referred me to pictures of the Bluejacket kit of the Olympia.  Turns out that kit has a smaller bridge, allowing the shrouds, which are anchored at the boat deck level, to clear the bridge.  One of them referred me to a national archives photo of the Olympia from the fore turret that clearly shows the Bluejacked kit is correct.

If you intend to build the Olympia and are in earliest stages, or haven't started yet, you might consider making the bridge deck slightly smaller, or moved rearward slightly.  The former option would require altering the wooden deck.  It looks like the real deck is as wide as the Encore/Revell kit, but shorter, so the front edge comes towards the center of the ship at a steeper angle, giving clearance for the shrouds.

One thing I learned Don is you can prep your rigging without attaching it to you masts and funnels yet by drilling holes in the deck and wood veneer in the locations on the deck where the stays for the funnel would be and is also the same with both masts as well. I would suggest 2lb test ice fishing line for the funnel stays and 4lb test for the shrouds on the mast and strongly suggest cutting the lines longer than you actually need as you can use the excess to pull the funnel stays taut prior to using CA to secure them on the inside of the funnel.

I did something similar to that rigging the antennas on my 1/350 scale RoG  Type VII/D which was alot of work but rewarding at the same time.

BTW I do believe there are PE ratlines that were included I have the Toms model works Olympia PE set and it included the ratlines. So I think all you really need is the mast stays but attaching them to the masts should be interesting.

Don Stauffer

Okay- here is another problem/question. I am putting in the foremast now.  The photos on the rigging page and the two proceeding pages seem to show the foremast shrouds ending up on a small rod protruding forward from the boat deck.  This looks very flimsy! I cannot believe this kind of arrangement would give much bracing to the masts.  If the idea is to merely hold the ratlines, okay, but wouldn't they be using the shrouds as side stays for the mast also?  Anyone know where those shrouds are really attached?

Hi Don,

I was on the Olympia about a month ago. My granfather served on her and I didnt take any pictures being caught in the "moment". My kids did maybe they have some photos I will share if they any good.

Anyway as far as the forward stack is concerned the cables dont  terminate on the bridge. They go over the bridge railing and end somewhere on the deck. The bridge railing is also bent away from the cable so it doesn't make contact.

I dont know exactly where the signal halyards end. For some reason I remember the flags being held in tubes below deck. Could it be they originate here?

Believe me, there was so much to take in its hard to remember.

I will be going back soon to see the Titanic exhibit and I will go aboard the Olympia again. This time I will take pictures!

Its sad to see but the Olympia needs a lot of work.

Okay- here is another problem/question. I am putting in the foremast now.  The photos on the rigging page and the two proceeding pages seem to show the foremast shrouds ending up on a small rod protruding forward from the boat deck.  This looks very flimsy! I cannot believe this kind of arrangement would give much bracing to the masts.  If the idea is to merely hold the ratlines, okay, but wouldn't they be using the shrouds as side stays for the mast also?  Anyone know where those shrouds are really attached?

Well, a closer examination of the PE included has solved my stack stay rigging problem.  I thought of attaching the stays to that deck/walkway outside of the boat deck, but worried about doing that with the inner walkway railings in place, and it would be impossible to put the railings on if the stays were already run to that walkway.

Turns out there ARE no inner railings provided for that deck/walkway.  That sure seems strange. It is six or more feet above the boat deck.  Are they not concerned that anyone will fall that distance in charging around during major activity?  Did the real ship have a railing there?  I can find no good photo of the real ship that shows that area, so can't tell, but maybe someone who visited the ship in Philly remembers.  Anyway, got the stack stays done, and doing the PE for the boat deck and bridges now. (these walkways run between the main bridge and the aft bridge).

Hello Don...

Have a look at the very detailed model by Fine Arts - they are perhaps the premier production model makers on earth and conduct extensive research for their builds.  There are some close up photos that may help you clarify the termination points.

http://www.fineartmodels.com/fineartmodels.com/Olympia.html

Good luck!

2/20 Bluemax

Don,

Bob Santos did a build-up/review of the Iron Shipwrights 1/350 USS Olympia in which he included rigging plans, which can be saved or printed out.:   http://www.steelnavy.com/Olympia.htm

From what I can see in the pics in my USS OLympia file, the stack guys are attached to the tops of what I would describe as bulwarks on the bridge deck. The bulwarks also have railings attached to their tops.

I hope this helps

Jim

Wow, thanks, Jim. 

I have been reluctant to terminate any lines on the PE railings. I use white glue for attaching PE, and worry about stressing it too much.  I have thought of trying to drill holes to attach eyes in the floor of those decks, but cannot get a pin vise in that area now- too much stuff there now- funnel bases, deckhouses, boat supports.  Wish I had thought to drill holes in those pieces (hammock supports, I think the plans call them) before I put them in place.

I certainly take exception to calling it a pig. It's far from perfect but the end result is very nice and as Don said you can't beat th extras that are included.

As for rigging I gave up trying to be exact because I couldn't determine correct locations.

Don,

Bob Santos did a build-up/review of the Iron Shipwrights 1/350 USS Olympia in which he included rigging plans, which can be saved or printed out.:   http://www.steelnavy.com/Olympia.htm

From what I can see in the pics in my USS OLympia file, the stack guys are attached to the tops of what I would describe as bulwarks on the bridge deck. The bulwarks also have railings attached to their tops.

I hope this helps

Jim

EdGrune

I was going to look at the Olympia during the upcoming Squadron Open House.   

But the more I've heard of it,  the more reviews I've read,  the more build comments,  it appears that they've just put lipstick on a pig.   And no matter what you do,  its still a pig.  

Maybe if they're on deep discount (hardly likely) or one is on the scratch & dent table ....

Well, it does have its problems, but all in all I am quite happy with it.  If it were a Tamiya or Trumpeter I would have had to pay far more to get the same  quality kit. Considering what all I get- PE, wooden decks, and brass turned gun barrels, I think it is more than competitive.  I do not regret for a moment buying the kit.  But, there are questions, of course.  I think the weakest part of the kit is the instructions.  They could have done a bit more editing. I suspect they believe that most builders do not rig kits beyond a few basic stays.

I was going to look at the Olympia during the upcoming Squadron Open House.   

But the more I've heard of it,  the more reviews I've read,  the more build comments,  it appears that they've just put lipstick on a pig.   And no matter what you do,  its still a pig.  

Maybe if they're on deep discount (hardly likely) or one is on the scratch & dent table ....