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Revell / Monogram Bon Homme Richard - WIP

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  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Carmichael, CA
Revell / Monogram Bon Homme Richard - WIP
Posted by Carmike on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:33 PM

Folks:

I think that prevailing opinion in the forum about a year or so ago was that this kit was a hopeless turkey, but saw one at the LHS when it first came out and decided, despite the bad reviews to give it a shot thinking that with some modifications and parts from the spares box that I might be able to do something with the kit.  I'm about 14 months into the build (not much spare time these days), and thought that I would share what I've done thus far.

First disclaimer is that I don't claim that this in any way resembles John Paul Jones' Bon Homme Richard - I just decided to try and model an English East Indiaman circa 1770 with some liberties taken to add more "deck furniture" (cannons).

On the plus side, the decks have scribed (not raised) plank lines, sanding off the molded ropes on the deck is relatively easy and even removing the plastic sails from the spars is not difficult.  Although I heard a lot of bad things about the dummy cannons, they actually came out OK (but substituted some spares from an old Airfix kit for the 12 pounders provided in the kit). On the negative side, it took a lot of filing and putty to get the stern to fit.

 I set aside the huge stern lanterns that came with the kit and adapted a couple of 1:160 street lamps from the model train section in their place.  I also had some old fittings from Model Shipways (before it was acquired) including some dummy cannons and 18 pounders and carriages.

The hull has been painted "Depot Buff" since it seemed to be a close match for the window pane decals and the color scheme (buff and black) seems to work better with the kit.

I've just started on the masts and spars - once i get them up I'll use heavy black thread for the ratlines. I'm still experimenting with a new camera - will take some better shots once I get the masts up.

Thanks,

Mike

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:58 AM

As John Tilley says, you can make a good model from a beef bone.  I would love to see what you have done so far. It sounds promising.

Bill

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Carmichael, CA
Posted by Carmike on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 12:32 PM

Bill:

Thanks, I thought that I had imbedded some images in the first post, but for some reason they are not displaying, so will try again. BTW - my working name for the build is indeed "Beefbone" for obvious reasons!

The first shot is a broadside image - hull color is "Depot Buff" - at first I was going to drill out the gun ports and add styrene behind so that they would appear more recessed into the hull, but decided that the kit would work as is.

Second image is a close-up of the quarter gallery.  I chose the paint scheme in part to make the window decals better blend with the hull - i moved the kit-supplied twelve pounders from the foc'sl to the quarter deck - I figured that a warship wouldn't have them sitting behind open railings but that on an armed  merchant ship it would be OK.  The N scale street lamps look much better than the kit-supplied lanterns.

The last shot is an image of the waist and the foc'sl - I scratch-built the cradles for the ships boats over the main hatch to add some detail (the boats are from an old Revell Constitution that didn't survive a relocation).  I used a black wash to bring up the wood grain and planking detail on the deck.

I'm glad that I didn't try to build this kit when it first came out in the late 1960's - thinking that it would have ended up out in the middle of the lake as a "fireship."

Mike

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 2:37 PM

Looks good!  The BonHomme Richard was my first ship model (I'm just finishing up my 2nd kit now!)...I didn't think it was a bad kit.  And it wasn't until I was almost finished with it that I learned it's not very well-liked. :)  I enjoyed it!

You mentioned removing the Injected Molded sails from the yards??  What's a good way to do that?  I was thinking of cutting them off with a Dremel and then just sanding/filing the yards back to the original-ish shape...

Thanks!

David

P.S.-Please keep the pics coming!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:51 AM

I would recommend simply scratchbuilding new masts and yards from wood. They are stronger than the plastic and can handle the rigging far more effectively than plastic ones.

Bill

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Thursday, May 17, 2012 4:14 PM

Bill you will need at least 3 sizes of dowels to make the masts as well as metal bands to hold them together along with a lathe to turn down the upper most mast part. all in all it might sound easy in theory but in actuality it is a bit more difficult.  but there is a possibility that some beefing up of the deck supports in the hull may be required as actual wood masts may add extra weight to the deck.

warshipguy

I would recommend simply scratchbuilding new masts and yards from wood. They are stronger than the plastic and can handle the rigging far more effectively than plastic ones.

Bill

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    November 2010
Posted by Bigb123 on Thursday, May 17, 2012 4:54 PM

Might could use the yards from a Lindberg Jolly Roger or Captian Kidd.  They're about the same scale as the BHR

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Carmichael, CA
Posted by Carmike on Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:00 PM

David:

Don't know if this is the best approach for removing the molded sails from the spars, but it has worked for me:

1 - Turn sail over and work on back side where the spar is well above the sail

2 - Use a hobby knife to score a line between the spar and the sail using the spar as the guide

3 - Keep deepening the grove (you may need to flip the blade over) until the sail breaks away from the spar

4 - Round off and clean-up the spar using a file

For some reason the sails seem stiffer than the spars which doesn't seem logical since they are cast from the same material. The masts and spars seem stronger than the masts and spars for the Lindberg / Pyro Harriet Lane, but not as good as the masts and spars in most Revell kits.

I thought about replacing the masts and spars (at least the spars) with wood, but it seemed to be a bit much for this kit.  I'm just going to careful when I set up the rigging to keep an even strain so that the masts and spars don't bend.

 The only kind thing I can say about the molded ratlines is that they are so thick that they probably provide great support for the masts.  I tried sanding one down to reduce the thickness and that helped, but think that heavy thread is a better alternative.

 

Mike

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:38 PM

Mikeym_us

Bill you will need at least 3 sizes of dowels to make the masts as well as metal bands to hold them together along with a lathe to turn down the upper most mast part. all in all it might sound easy in theory but in actuality it is a bit more difficult.  but there is a possibility that some beefing up of the deck supports in the hull may be required as actual wood masts may add extra weight to the deck.

 warshipguy:

I would recommend simply scratchbuilding new masts and yards from wood. They are stronger than the plastic and can handle the rigging far more effectively than plastic ones.

Bill

 

You don't need a lathe to make spars for a model like that.  Just an electric drill, a few sheets of sandpaper in different grits, and a vacuum cleaner (assuming that your wife takes exception to clouds of sanding dust).

For convenience, clamp the drill in a vise on your bench (or a sawhorse).  If you're right handed, mount the drill on your right.  Either wear a glove on your left hand or pick up a rag with it.  (Your hand ia about to become the tailstock of your improvised lathe.)  Cut the dowel off about two inches over the finished length.  Chuck one end of the dowel in the drill, turn on the drill at a fairly high speed, hold the free end of the dowel in your left end, and have at it with the sandpaper.  You may be surprised at how quickly you can work the taper into the dowel.  You can start with whatever diameter of dowel you can find conveniently; the big variable is the amount of time you'll have to spend sanding.  (Some modelers prefer to start with a raw piece of wood split from the edge of a board.  That trick guarantees the grain will be straight.)

Lots of experienced modelers do it this way - largely because the small lathes they own aren't big enough for the job.  My old Unimat, for instance, can't turn anything longer than about thee inches.

You do need to be careful about the dowels you buy.  The manufacturers these days are making them out of at least four woods.  My  personal favorite is cherry.  Maple is ok, though kind of brittle.  Birch is nice IF you're careful to get a piece whose grain runs parallel to the length.  I don't recommend oak, except on very large-scale models.

I confess I've never found the weight of the spars to be significant.  (The weight of those awful injection-molded "sails" is another matter.  I'd be willing to bet that a wood yard would be considerably lighter than a plastic one with an integrally-molded sail.)  To install wood masts in a plastic hull will take a little ingenuity.  The best approach probably is to drill a hole through the deck and step the mast firmly on the bottom of the hull with epoxy.)

Like so many other techniques in sailing ship modeling, this one takes a little practice.  But not much.  My guess is that you can make a full set of spars for that model in one or two evenings.

Here's a somewhat more expensive, but quicker solution:  http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS100 .

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:57 PM

John looking at those spars and dowels the spars look more like tooth picks. Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy toothpicks that are of different lengths to make the different yardarms on the masts. The tooth picks do come in different sizes and diameters and usually cost less than 2 bucks for a box of 100.

 

jtilley

 Mikeym_us:

Bill you will need at least 3 sizes of dowels to make the masts as well as metal bands to hold them together along with a lathe to turn down the upper most mast part. all in all it might sound easy in theory but in actuality it is a bit more difficult.  but there is a possibility that some beefing up of the deck supports in the hull may be required as actual wood masts may add extra weight to the deck.

 warshipguy:

I would recommend simply scratchbuilding new masts and yards from wood. They are stronger than the plastic and can handle the rigging far more effectively than plastic ones.

Bill

 

 

You don't need a lathe to make spars for a model like that.  Just an electric drill, a few sheets of sandpaper in different grits, and a vacuum cleaner (assuming that your wife takes exception to clouds of sanding dust).

For convenience, clamp the drill in a vise on your bench (or a sawhorse).  If you're right handed, mount the drill on your right.  Either wear a glove on your left hand or pick up a rag with it.  (Your hand ia about to become the tailstock of your improvised lathe.)  Cut the dowel off about two inches over the finished length.  Chuck one end of the dowel in the drill, turn on the drill at a fairly high speed, hold the free end of the dowel in your left end, and have at it with the sandpaper.  You may be surprised at how quickly you can work the taper into the dowel.  You can start with whatever diameter of dowel you can find conveniently; the big variable is the amount of time you'll have to spend sanding.  (Some modelers prefer to start with a raw piece of wood split from the edge of a board.  That trick guarantees the grain will be straight.)

Lots of experienced modelers do it this way - largely because the small lathes they own aren't big enough for the job.  My old Unimat, for instance, can't turn anything longer than about thee inches.

You do need to be careful about the dowels you buy.  The manufacturers these days are making them out of at least four woods.  My  personal favorite is cherry.  Maple is ok, though kind of brittle.  Birch is nice IF you're careful to get a piece whose grain runs parallel to the length.  I don't recommend oak, except on very large-scale models.

I confess I've never found the weight of the spars to be significant.  (The weight of those awful injection-molded "sails" is another matter.  I'd be willing to bet that a wood yard would be considerably lighter than a plastic one with an integrally-molded sail.)  To install wood masts in a plastic hull will take a little ingenuity.  The best approach probably is to drill a hole through the deck and step the mast firmly on the bottom of the hull with epoxy.)

Like so many other techniques in sailing ship modeling, this one takes a little practice.  But not much.  My guess is that you can make a full set of spars for that model in one or two evenings.

Here's a somewhat more expensive, but quicker solution:  http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS100 .

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Thursday, May 17, 2012 9:13 PM

Thanks, guys!

Soon I'll be starting on the Zvezda Black Swan kit....it looks like a good quality, fun build for me....except for the blasted molded sails....I don't know why they've made them that way, but I don't think I can abide it.  Aside from the sails and the shrouds, the rest of the kit seems to be well-done.

So, I think I'll try a few attempts at Jtilley's Dowel/Drill suggestion, and hope for the best...I'm not much of a woodworker. Failing that, I may try to separate the included sails from the yards...but I almost think a last resort would be to rob some other kit of its yards...

Cheers,

David

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, May 18, 2012 4:16 AM

Mike,

I do replace all of my plastic masts and spars with wood. Instead of using a lathe, I shape each by placing the dowel into an electric drill, use low speed, and shape it by using sand paper. It works well.  It beats the @#!! out of the plastic parts because they won't warp when you rig the ship. And, I have never had to strengthen the deck to support the masts.

Bill

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Friday, May 18, 2012 9:19 AM

Talk about making the proverbial silk purse from a sow's ear... Great job!

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

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