SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

A Paint Conundrum

2113 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2012
A Paint Conundrum
Posted by southsideringo on Saturday, July 28, 2012 11:25 AM

Hello True Believers,

Here is my BIG problem.  Usually when I paint something that is supposed to be metal, I dry brush it with silver or steel and get a really good result.

I am finishing up this big WW2 Destroyer and nearly the entire thing is a grey that is 9 parts white, 1 part tank grey.  Very light indeed.

I have tried dry brushing a darker gray on there to bring out the rivets and such.  It just looked filthy.  I tried the lightest, brightest metallic I had (aluminum) on there. My big 5" guns looked like the freakin tin man from the wizard of oz. 

I don't have an airbrush, and all my paint is enamel.  I've heard of mixing a color with the metallic and brushing it really, really lightly.  But what color?

Help a guy out if you can.

Thanks

W

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Saturday, July 28, 2012 12:51 PM

Hello!

What color? I'd say probably white in that case. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by southsideringo on Saturday, July 28, 2012 1:20 PM

Hi

Thanks for the reply.  Actually I tried white and aluminum on some extra stuff I have laying around.  Instead of doing something awesome like I hoped, like highlighting the textures and metallizing them, the aluminum just dirtied down my white.  No matter how much white I put in.  I put in so much that you could barely make out the metal flake, and the mix was still considerably darker that both white and aluminum alone.

I did try one thing that seemed to work a little bit since I posted my question.  The decks on this destroyer are some sort of navy blue (go figure).  I think it was 70% flat deep sea blue, 20% tank gray, and 10% flat white.  Nice color really.  So I mixed it half and half with aluminum.

Then I dipped a brush in there and wiped it off and rubbed it out and generally abused it for about 5 minutes.  I mean I could not get a thing out of it.

then I went to work dry brushing that terribly dull, flat grey paint job.  I brushed and brushed, and finally I started saying to myself, "is there something there?"

Eventually a very very faint blue started making the textures stand out and the aluminum was shining it up but just a wee bit.  I looked okay, and not filthy.

The problem:  That was one heck of a lot of work.  This ship is like 30" long.  I still need to find a better way.

Thanks again

W

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Sunday, July 29, 2012 9:20 AM

Well, I thought silver will make white go darker. How about you post some photos, maybe that will give someone an inspiration? Good luck and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, July 29, 2012 10:57 AM

Usually rivets are painted the same color as the assemby they are used to fabricate, so I usually do not  highlight rivets, except a spot of rust here and there.  I also dry brush to simulate metal patina, but only for things that are unpainted, natural finish steel or aluminum.  BTW, Testors makes a steel color that is darker than their aluminum,and that is what I dry brush to simulate steel.  I generally dry brush over a dark or medium gray flat primer.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: EG48
Posted by Tracy White on Sunday, July 29, 2012 1:20 PM

The ship you are building was made of steel, not aluminum, so when paint wears off it will reveal a DARK metal, not light, with no flake.

http://images.google.com/hosted/life/9ac4d8e927ea849b.html
http://images.google.com/hosted/life/05b79ca18708285a.html
http://images.google.com/hosted/life/f?imgurl=479ad767ac14132e
http://images.google.com/hosted/life/647198aa9dfd82cd.html

Naturally, I say this with the caveat that it's your model and you can have it look any way you want to...

Tracy White Researcher@Large

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: EG48
Posted by Tracy White on Sunday, July 29, 2012 1:21 PM

Tracy White Researcher@Large

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Sunday, July 29, 2012 3:08 PM

Also, except in the worst of conditions, anything readily reachable was kept in good paint.

The hull could show some rust, some wear, but, "worn" spots spots should "show" as neat rectangles of new paint (or primer, if interrupted).

In USN practice, there is an entire division of the crew dedicated to topside activities.  The Deck division gets the task of  scraping & needle-gunning worn/chipped paint to bare metal, then priming that repair, and painting over that in the prescribed color of paint.

It's dirty, hard, monotonous, mind-numbing, work with strong chemicals and complicated surfaces, all on a moving vessel subject to drills and alerts.  It is great fodder for the hands to generate most excellent griping.  It is the measure of the officer commanding in how much of that griping is good natured versus unfettered B&M/whining/real distress.  As with any deceptively simple task, it needs doing well, and with the full "buy in" by the personnel involved.

Oh, and painting often gets 'better" the closer to the bridge on some ships--this is not always the case, but it is one that can catch the eye.

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by southsideringo on Sunday, July 29, 2012 9:15 PM

That is very cool info.  Thanks

I know that the ship was made of steel.  what I'm going for is something very, very subtle.  If a person is waling around on the deck of a ship that is freshly painted in dead flat light grey, that person is still gonna see rivet heads and seams and whatnot.  I'm not trying to turn this boat into Reynolds wrap!

But like Don says above, the steel color that Testors makes is darker that both their silver and their aluminum.  I decided to use the least dark of the three.

I appreciate the advice.  I think I just about got it figured out.  Super dry

W.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.