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Dragon 1/350 USS Ohio Hull

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  • Member since
    October 2011
Dragon 1/350 USS Ohio Hull
Posted by radcontech on Tuesday, September 25, 2012 9:10 PM

I bought the Dragon USS Maryland + USS Chicago because I wanted to try a 1:350 ohio class sub. I'm having problems with the hull lining up though. It seems like no matter how I position the halves there is an overlap or lip on one side or the other. I'm wondering how other people deal with this? I could sand it down but it runs the entire length of the sub and I would sand out quite a bit of the body lines. I could, of course, scribe those back in after I'm done though.

Thanks for the advice!

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, September 26, 2012 1:27 PM

radcontech

I bought the Dragon USS Maryland + USS Chicago because I wanted to try a 1:350 ohio class sub. I'm having problems with the hull lining up though. It seems like no matter how I position the halves there is an overlap or lip on one side or the other. I'm wondering how other people deal with this? I could sand it down but it runs the entire length of the sub and I would sand out quite a bit of the body lines. I could, of course, scribe those back in after I'm done though.

Thanks for the advice!

Go ahead & sand the overlap down & make the hull round.   You need to fill in those "engraved panel line"  trenches on the Dragon/DML hull anyway.    

Trident subs were constructed by stacking together pre-assembled hull section rings.  That is what the trenches are supposed to represent.  However the tolerances between the rings were 1/8-inch or less.  That is 0.000357 inch at 1:350 scale.   Fill and sand

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:29 PM

EdGrune

radcontech

I bought the Dragon USS Maryland + USS Chicago because I wanted to try a 1:350 ohio class sub. I'm having problems with the hull lining up though. It seems like no matter how I position the halves there is an overlap or lip on one side or the other. I'm wondering how other people deal with this? I could sand it down but it runs the entire length of the sub and I would sand out quite a bit of the body lines. I could, of course, scribe those back in after I'm done though.

Thanks for the advice!

Go ahead & sand the overlap down & make the hull round.   You need to fill in those "engraved panel line"  trenches on the Dragon/DML hull anyway.    

Trident subs were constructed by stacking together pre-assembled hull section rings.  That is what the trenches are supposed to represent.  However the tolerances between the rings were 1/8-inch or less.  That is 0.000357 inch at 1:350 scale.   Fill and sand

Not only what Ed said about the ring joints, but the hulls are covered in anechoic tiles.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: EG48
Posted by Tracy White on Wednesday, September 26, 2012 4:43 PM

You might also look into creating "spreaders" with spare pieces of sprue to push into the half that is narrower than the other. I personally find this more effort than just filling and sanding the steps on this particular kit, but some kits almost require this due to mold miss-matches.

Tracy White Researcher@Large

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