Dragon's 1/350th Scale USS Yorktown CG-48 And an Alfa Class SSN

I have little interest in modern warships,but that Yorktown is sweet.

I have never tried it on paper flags, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work.  I would think you could wet the paper flags and set them to shape and dry, but as I said, I have no experience using paper flags.

Mark,

Beautiful build, very nicely done. Thank you for sharing!

Tom,

I like your ideas on not using straight out balck and white, I'll have to try it on one of my future builds.  Also, thanks for the idea on flags, will it work if the flags are paper?

Steve

Here's an example using the toned down black and white and the flag technique I use.

Mark,

Wonderful build.  I LOVE the Ticos.  Your use of washes really helped pop out the details.

You asked for constructive criticism so please take this as nothing more than that.  I have found that my models look more realistic when I didn't use "white" and "black" one to one scale which is what comes in the bottles.  Since I use Model Master enamels exclusively, I use Camouflage Gray for white.  It is a toned down white that pop out at you when viewed on the model.  In short, it looks more to scale than the "white" right from the bottle.  Same goes for black.  One to one scale black right from the bottle IMHO, just looks out of scale and too dark, especially on 1/700 scale models.  I always mix just a bit of good ole Camouflage Gray with black to lighten it up a bit.

One last thing that will make your models look more realistic.  Sandwich aluminum foil between your flag decals.  Just cut the foil to size and apply per usual.  Some touch ups may be needed where the shiny aluminum shines on the sides.  With the foil now sandwiched between your flag decals, can put a realistic looking bend to them to make them look like they are flying in the wind.

This is what "I" prefer.  You may feel differently, so build your models the way that makes "you" happy.  This just a bit of constructive criticism.  Great build!