Artesania Latina 1805 Swift pilot boat

I'd say so!I like the baseboard and cradle I made for it too!

Pretty Swift!

Looks like she is done!I like the way it came out!     

cut and routed the base board and made an oaken cartouche for a name plate.     

Made an oak cradle for the base board.   

The kit did not include decals so i spelled out the name in a curved orientation on the transom.I clear coated them to prevent peeling.     

Added Old Glory to the main mast and it appears that construction is nearly complete.   

Worked pretty well.   

Came up with this gadjet to hold the deadeye in proper position while I run the thread through them.   

Yes I always glue my masts in,I can;t imagine why you wouldn't.   Further progress.   

For what little it's worth, I've been building ship models for about 57 years and, so far as I can remember, I've always glued the masts into position - with no ill results.  It probably isn't completely necessary, but it feels right - and eliminates the possibility that the mast will get twisted around.

Well awright, good luck with this one, too! Have a nice day

Paweł

Well ,I epoxied the masts of my Sark and there has been no problem thus far!.

philo426 - that's a bit of a problem. Normally you don't glue the mast to the ship - you just put it in and let the rigging - shrouds in this case - do the job of holding it in place, just like the real thing. Now that the mast is glued, I'm not sure how the rigging is going to behave, but I guess we shall see, won't we? Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

I decided to mount up the main mast first due to the long spanker boom. I used 5 min epoxy for strength and the extended curing time allowed me to adjust the fit. The rigging took a long time because of the somewhat complex blocking arrangement.The tiny blocks made running the thread through them somewhat difficult.     

Thanks for the tip!

philo426, you would have to shorten the brass, so taht the deadeyes are just above the wood of the channels. Shorter fittings are stiffer. But then you probably have to widen the channels, so that the shrouds clear the bulwark rail - as I wrote before, the shrouds are not allowed to touch the rail. Good luck with the fix, have a nice day

Paweł

Mocked up the yard after fitting the brass.    

I used .80 styrene for lower doubling and a piece of sheet brass for the upper.The top mast is warped  a bit but it is ok because the mast is raked anyway.      

I see!so the brass is so soft that the rigging will pull it out of shape.How can this be rectified?

That's just the problem, philo426 - the shrouds will pull on them and adjust them back as they like it in no time - while the chain plates are supposed to hold the shrouds tight all of the time. IMO those chain plates are in the top three of the most serious problems with this model kit. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

Well.the nice part is,they are made of soft brass so it is easy to adjust their fit.

Howdy Philo426!

I see you're busy with this one all of the time. Please watch those chain plates - the fittings the shrouds attrach to. They are total *** straight out of the box. The deadeyes have to be right above the wooden parts (I believe they are called channels). And you have to make sure the shrouds won't touch the bulwark rail on their way to the mast top. Good luck with your build, have a nice day

Paweł

Tapered the foremast.   

Clamping the main rail.    

I chucked the bow sprit blank in my cordless drill and used a chisel and coarse sandpaper to taper it down.Worked pretty well.    

Installed the door and the little copper hinges.   

THanks!