Waxing the Rigging Lines

I use dental beez wax..when I use wax at all.  I've moved on to synthetic lines that I dye.

I'll admit that I was intimidated by the thought of tying knots when I first began building ship models...even the clove hitch seemed confusing to me when I read a description of how to tie one...But then I gave it a whirl with some clothesline-type cord I found in the garage, and yes, within two minutes I thought "Is that REALLY all there is to it"?

Now, basically all my rigging is done with clove hitch and/or seizing/lashing.  I often feel like I don't need to glue the knots....but I usually do anyway!

It's not difficult, but it does require an extra turn around the shroud...I've never actually tried to tie ratlines with an overhand knot, so I can't speak to the ease, or efficiency, but for some reason, the clove hitch is easy to adjust "on the fly", so I feel comfortable with it...

Anyway, regardless of how people feel about different knots, I'm just amazed that you could tie ratlines at 1/128 scale, JTilley!!!  Of course, down by the deadeyes, there's nothing to it...but on my 1/100 Imai Galleon, as they near the tops, they are so close together I can scarcely get my hook-needle between them to guide the thread around... clove hitch, overhand, or whatever...it's just a tiny space!  Literally, at the point where the shrouds are up to where the parrels are for the yards, there's less than the thickness of a shroud between them, and I'm supposed to get something like 3 more sets across!

I'm looking forward to building some more 1/70 and 1/60 scale kits...looking at the ratlines on the Black Swan I did last year (1/72), and there's a playground of elbow room between the shrouds, even at the tops it was manageable...but I guess I just need to quit whining and get smaller tools!  haha

Also, I find it very surprising that  everyone doesn't have trouble with wax flaking...I typically use whatever line comes in the box (lately it's been Imai/ERTL stuff) and I have a spool of polyester tan thread for ratlines...until I started "candling" the waxed line, I had terrible trouble with flaking at the knots....and I really don't think I am using too much wax...a couple of tugs through the cake, and then a fingerscrape to get the excess off...I may have to try some without wax, and see how it works for me, just for my own edification...I have some MS stuff, that I've been saving for a special occasion!

But then, I also just scored a few ounces of local beeswax from a farmer nearby, and I want to see if it beehaves (get it?) any better than the sewing-store cakes (which I find very convenient, and tidy).....

I mean no disrespect or offense, but I have to say Mr. Stauffer's last post confuses me a little.  I think it's worth a little discussion, because his thinking about knots apparently is shared by quite a few people (including at least one very famous and deeply respected ship modeler), but I have trouble understanding it.  I just can't imagine that any knot could be easier to tie than the clove hitch.  It's certainly no harder to tie than the overhand knot; the clove hitch may actually be a little simpler.  Once you get into the habit, you can tie one about every three seconds. 

Whether it's worth the trouble is, to my mind, moot; the clove hitch is just about the easiest knot there is to tie.  If I remember correctly, tying the several hundred clove hitches on my little model of the frigate Hancock (scale:  1/128) took four or five evenings (not successive evenings, I hasten to point out).  That was about thirty years ago; I'm not at all sure my eyes would be up to the task now.  But they are good enough to see that those are clove hitches.

We've talked about this topic several times here in the Forum.  A search on "clove hitch" will turn up several links to websites that show how to tie it.  My strong suggestion to anybody who's rigging a ship model is:  try the clove hitch.  Practice it for ten minutes, starting with a larger size of string or rope than you're going to use on your model.  I suspect those ten minutes will be enough to convince you:  there's no simpler knot.

As for waxing thread - I confess I've never found it much of a problem.  I've always used the plain old cake of beeswax in a plastic box, which can be found at any sewing store.  (I like the kind with slits in the box, so the wax stays off the fingers.)  I've never bothered with heating the thread (before or after).  I generally keep a soft, clean rag at hand, and wipe the thread on it to get rid of any wax flakes.  I've certainly been satisfied with the results.

Maybe it should be noted that the importance of waxing varies with the type of thread you're using.  If you're using cotton (which I strongly do not recommend), wax is almost essential; untreated cotton is very subject to expansion and contraction with changes to the humidity.  If you've got some linen or synthetic that doesn't have any fuzz on it, wax probably won't be necessary.  (I can testify that the linen lines on the models in the famous Crabtree Collection, at the museum where I used to work, aren't waxed - and they're at least fifty years old.)   I used to use silk thread, spun up on my primitive "rope making machine."  That produced nice, smooth rope, and I didn't bother to wax it.  Two models that I rigged that way more than thirty years ago still look fine.  I've since run out of the two sizes of silk thread that I bought, and haven't found a good source since - but several firms that sell silk have websites.  I really like the "cotton/poly mix" that Model Shipways sells.  I've used it on a couple of models; it's nice and "ropey-looking," and doesn't seem to require wax.

I find in that scale I cannot afterwards tell the difference between a clove hitch and a simple overhand knot after they are tied (and painted), so I just use the simpler overhand knot.

And oh, by the way...

rigging ratlines on a 1/100 scale ship is a PAIN!  lol

By the time I get up to the yards on the topmast shrouds, they are so close together that I can't even get the thread between them to tie a clove hitch!  :)

At least the wax-flaking problem is solved!

I had similar problems with wax. My solution was to place the thread in a 50/50 solution of waster and white Elmers glue. As I removed the thread from the solution I would wipe the excess and place a small weight on the end of the thread while it dried. The line held the tension from the weight and would almost stand on end. The thread will hold almost any shape you place it in and holds a knot well.

The glue eliminates the friz that some thread has and is water resistant after drying.

Scott Harris

On a related note...I've just contacted a local bee-keeper...why not use local beeswax for my rigging lines?  :)

Well to be honest...I get my thread from a long time friend who has a good collection of older threads..from the 30's and 50's......they were much finer then

Are button thread  or upholstery thread available in fine sizes?  I have had a real problem finding fine thread.  When I asked at a fabric and craft shop why so few thread sizes now, the saleslady said sewing was a declining craft and they were reducing their inventory of sizes.  I have found now that the only places to get small diameter threads are model ship supply places and fly tying places :-(

Actually...I have converted to waxed button thread......or tan nylon apulstery thread .It's awesome

Dave,

Cool, I am glad it worked for you.  I found the idea in Les Wilkins' book and have used it on all my models, even the U-Boat. So far all the lines are taut and it's easy to dust them.  Once you find the optimal distance it goes pretty quick and it is supposed to burn off the fuzz at the same time.

So, you're starting to rig the Galleon now?!  Very cool.

Steve

Oh, man....I just ran some waxed line over a candle....

After one mishap that resulted in a singe (!), it went smoothly, and I have to say it's awesome!

Now the line has a sort of stiffness to it, and it makes a nice tight knot with NO FLAKES!  

I went ahead and set up about 10 feet of it....gonna start running some shrouds on the Imai Spanish Galleon tomorrow!  Thanks, guys....the candle trick is where it's at!

Also, I'm going to buy some pure natural beeswax instead of the stuff I've been using!

Yayyy!

Take the wax and melt it into a cake...then as it cools then use it.  Heating changes it's character..and it works good.

Yeah, I think I'll pick up some *real* block beeswax, and try it out instead....the Dritz brand from the sewing store is really dry, even when I scrape it with my finger it crumbles away....

Dave,

I actually run my waxed line over a candle flame a couple of times when I rig.  I have tried running the line through my fingers, but I find that passing it over the flame really lets the wax impregnate the line and I never have a flake problem.  I also use a big block of natural beeswax I bought at Uthrecht Art supplies, which I think helps keep the flaking down.

Steve

Sorry to be late to this discussion. Yes, the flake problem is too much wax.

Really all you need to do is a little oil grease or wax.

Don, the Future idea is new to me but a good one will try it.

Thanks, guys!  

I have often used Future to treat threads.  You have to use it on lines that will not see a lot of threading through many fittings, as it stiffens the lines when it dries, which goes pretty quick.  But it does do a nice job on simple  lines.

I've always kept the wax rather warm for line work. Place it in the sunshine for a while and then drop in my pocket while working with it.

And you don't need a lot of wax. A little goese a long ways.

If you have wax flaking at hard spots you are using too much.

Part of the kit my workbench had collected was a stray torn leather glove.

The leather had been put to several other uses, but the "pinky" finger was reasonably intact..

Which was handy (NPI) in that I could keep that one finger covered, then run the waxed line across the leather.  Which would produce enough friction to "melt in" the beeswax.  

This with the added benefit of, if I had used an art marker to tint the line, any "bleed" of that very-permanent ink was on the leather rather than my flesh or the like (or through a bit of cotton rag).

I have heard that a scrap of chamois cloth will work, too.  

David...I always warm or melt my wax into cakes first....soft warm/cooling wax works the best.