Build order for Dragon's 1/350 USS Buchanan

Somehow the picture I wanted to post did not make it in. Here's the URL:

http://michaels.0catch.com/comparison.jpg

Mike

Looking forward to your build...Mike.

I did the 1/350 Bismarck a while back and it should be similar in procedure. Turrets are left off to mask the sides and paint the tops, same for the superstructure so the deck can be sprayed. That or masking. If it's a really fragile area to work with the pe then leave it off, paint it separately and glue it on afterwards. Any glossy super glue spots can be touched up later. You are just going have to improvise as you go along. I hope this helps.

So, general philosophy is to build UP and then OUT. Don't put deck-edge parts on before pieces inboard of them, so that you are not reaching over and breaking them.

I usually build the hull and major superstructure components sans most details (including the prop shafts & rudders until right before I paint), and then when that's done I paint that. For me, it seems to work best to start at the bottom with the hull red, then do the boot topping, then the camouflage. Typically the advice is to go lightest paint to darkest, but I find the taping to be easier if I work upwards due to how tape works on compound curves.

As far as the transition from 5-N to 20-B, it looks like it's at the top corners of the turrets.

Thanks plastickjunkie and Tracy.

What you've said seems to be a logical build progression. I guess when I build the deck houses and bridge superstructure I should get them together without the PE, paint them, then add details including most of the PE parts that that I will have painted separately therefore not worrying about masking around "fiddely" parts.

I will take Tracy's advise about starting to paint at the bottom of the hull. I'll try to match the boot stripe from the picture and do that next, then on the the Navy Blue for the rest of the hull above the stripe.

Thanks again,

Mike

Yes, there are some that will assemble the kit and photo-etch before painting, but I've never been able to trust my hands enough to not damage and destroy in that method, so PE is applied after the main paint is down, and then touched up..

Hmmm.

   1943 MIKE : Couldy you be the same age as I ? Anyway , I always leave ALL the P.E. on their frets and drop them in some lacquert hinner for about five minutes .then wipe dry and go over the surface on both sides with 2000 grit sanding paper (wet ) rinse , prime an paint .       Tanker-Builder .

Tankerbuilder,

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd rather not use laquer thinner if I can help it. With the PE still on the trees I think I'll try bathing it in vinegar for 30 min. or so, rinse and hope that that'll work.

Age? D.O.B.: 01/30/1943

Mike