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Photo-etch doorways and hatches

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8 replies
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  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Photo-etch doorways and hatches
Posted by Marcus McBean on Friday, September 20, 2013 9:10 PM

I am new to modeling and using photo-etch parts.  When adding photo-etch doorways and water tight door, hatches, etc., do you have to remove the existing doors molded on the model or do overlay them on the existing doors?  I am building Trumpeter 1/350 Liberty ship the "O'Brien".

Tags: battleships , BB-35 , Texas
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Monday, September 23, 2013 4:31 PM

As I haven't performed this myself, I am unqualified to answer. But, from what I have gleaned from the forum over the years, it is better to remove the molded on doors first.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, September 23, 2013 11:25 PM

I took out my O'Brien this evening and had a look. I'm about 50% done.

Definitely the cast doors would have to be removed.

However, several points.

I had forgotten, but looking over this model and the Gold Medal set: it is a very difficult project, certainly beyond even average ship modeler level. To begin with, everything is pretty small at 1/350. It's not a big ship and there's a lot of detail. You've jumped off way in the deep end. That's ok, but realize that there are other kits out there like the Revell Burton Island with PE added, for one, that will be a whole lot easier. There's a reason my Liberty is on the "chill" shelf. This is a very hard model to build.

As for the doors, often PE sets come with parts that are usable at different levels of skill.

The railings, a given. The winches and reels, not too hard to deal with as if they don't work out they really won't be missed by most folks who look at the model.

The doors cast in plastic look darn good. I think the point of the PE set was to make the wood ones look like wood, etc. I would seriously consider leaving them alone as removing the plastic ones is difficult.

They are really an option to replace.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 9:21 AM

I generally remove the doors as cast first.  However, on a couple of kits the cast-in-place doors were so thin I elected to leave them in place. In another, not all the doors were molded, so it saved effort on that kit.  But I generally do remove them.  I use a needle file from my needle file set.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 6:06 PM

I was hoping not too.

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 6:11 PM

Thank you, you have been really informative.  I made have jumped off the deep end, but I am patient and will proceed slowly.  I will leave the doors on and check the photos of the O'Brien I have to see if any are missing, that maybe I can add a few just for practice.  Again thank you and I wish the best with your kit.

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 6:13 PM

Thank you for you reply.  The doors on the O'Brien do look very good, so will be leaving them.  Thank you for the tip on using the needle file.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 6:24 PM

I use a square ended xacto #17, but either way, if you can, put masking tape around the door. It'll save you repairs down the line.

Good show, it's a great kit.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 9:02 PM

Thanks for the tip.  

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