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Titanic deck rigging question?

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  • Member since
    December 2012
Titanic deck rigging question?
Posted by Riffraff on Thursday, October 10, 2013 8:11 PM

So I am building the my first model of a ship. It's the Limited Edition Mincraft 1:400 Titanic Centary Edition with the high detail PE parts. I'm at a point where I need to run the black thread through a couple building roofs on the boat deck so they can attach to the masts at some point. 

The manual instructs me to take a 1/2" or so piece of sprue and warm it up over a flame so that I can stretch it a little to make it thinner in the centre. Then tie the string around this centre point . Then I am to run that string up through the building roof from the inside so the the sprue secures the string inside the building which will allow me to run it up to some point on the mast where I am to glue it. I hope that makes sense.

I'd like to get opinions from people with ship experiance if I should follow this? Could I not just glue the string with CA glue to the inside of the building and then run the string up through the hole? Whats the reason for the sprue? Does it act like a weight on the end of the string so that it looks snug once it's all assembled? I'm not sure 1/2" of sprue in much weight to keep a string looking tight. I'm thinking the string should be glued at each end to keep it looking tight, but what do I know.

How do you guys secure the rigging/string ends on your models? Thanks.    

 

 

 

     

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, October 10, 2013 8:14 PM

Not that way!

I am of the camp that cannot stretch sprue to save my life.

I use various monofilaments, although lately I've been trying EZ line which is an elastic mono.  Try to use as thin a thread as you can reasonably see.

Yes you can glue it at one end. Planning ahead is a good idea.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, October 10, 2013 8:26 PM

It sounds more like an anchor point for the line, and nothing more. Just one option. You could just as easily make a large knot for the same pupose, and super glue it in place.

 

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Friday, October 11, 2013 7:39 AM

I think you hit on what they are thinking.  If the sprue hangs free inside the deck house, it will always keep the line tight.  I came up with this idea myself on my last build.  I use 6/0 fly tying thread for rigging, but it can go limp with change of humidity if both ends are glued down.  I my case I had plenty of room inside the hull to secure one end to a small pinch-on fishing lead weight.

Fred

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, October 11, 2013 9:08 AM

To anchor threads inside of hull  or deckhouses, I just tie a double knot on end, and make sure hole I drill is not much bigger than thread. I point other end of thread by dipping in a little CA, drawing smooth and cutting end diagonally with knife after it sets.  Makes a "needle" that way.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Riffraff on Friday, October 11, 2013 6:16 PM

The string I am using is what comes in the kit, and has a braided look like wire rope. It's quite nice.

Yes Fred I like the way you put it better. If the string was simply glued down and/or or tied at one end I have no idea if temps or humidity may effect the tension after it's all completed?

I'd hate to spend countless hours building this sucker only to have the strings go limp after. Maybe I'm over analizing it though and it might not make much if any difference, I dunno?  

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Saturday, October 12, 2013 9:30 AM

The longer the run of the line, the more chance it has to expand and go limp.  I would think from the deck up to the mast head on a 1/400 ship would be worth following their directions.

Fred

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 1:39 PM

Hi ;

EZ line is a great way to go . Anyway there is this .You can take the kit line and run it as instructed only  . Do this  though . Take the line and tie it to small pips of sprue and don,t stretch it .The method I use is easier for me . Using the deck sprues , stretch it partway , (so it fills the hole in the deck ) and trap the line that way from below . use TESTORS windowmaker or Elmers for the windows where applicable . Bye !

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 1:59 PM

Riff- one of the reasons that these suggestions all involve some kind of anchor part on the underside is that if you simply dip a line in glue and stick it into a hole, or stick it through a hole and just apply glue from the back, is that the glue creeps up the line and mekes the first 1/8" or so stiff and not lined up with the overall run.

One other trick- despite the usual kit directions, don't glue the caps on the stacks when you install them. It makes threading the stays into holes and pulling out through the top possible so you can glue them on the inside.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Glenolden, PA
Posted by highlanderburial on Friday, October 18, 2013 5:10 PM

EZ Line! It comes in 2 colors, white and black. LOVE that stuff on 1/350 kits! It never sags and goes on with super glue. Try it out.

Imagine a witty signature right .....here....

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Riffraff on Friday, October 18, 2013 9:43 PM

Great info everybody, will check it out, thanks.

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