Washes

Ok, I see. Very nice. Will keep in mind.

LOL.. Pin wash is when you use let's say a dark wash applied with a very thin brush to panel lines, molded screens, etc. basically any sharp details as around bolts, locks to create a shadow effect to pop the detail. You can do a rust pin wash around bolts to simulate corrosion coming thru the paint.

For example, here I did a pin wash of black artist oils over the silver Tamiya acrylic to deepen the cooling fins on this radial engine.

Here I did pin washes on the uniform on the seams, pockets and emblems addig depth and shadows.

Ok, another ?...what's a pin-wash?

Don Stauffer

I use solvent (enamel thinner) over enamel for pin washes- works okay as long as you are careful to keep wash in depressions and panel lines, and do not touch area until thoroughly dry.

I use solvent (enamel thinner) over enamel for pin washes- works okay as long as you are careful to keep wash in depressions and panel lines, and do not touch area until thoroughly dry.

Ok, got that.

You NEVER use a solvent wash over a solvent paint. The same with acrylic over acrylic, you need a barrier. Solvent wash over an acrylic and acrylic over solvent.

So, more or less, a little turpentine or water and a bit of paint to just color it. Sounds simple enough, if I catch your drift. Just don't want to destroy something that's alittle pricey, but got a good deal on it out of California. When I get to the sails, I found where it says you should start at the bottom of the mast and work your way up. I think it was pstanfield that put that post. Been checking all post from different websites on this matter. If mine comes out half as good, I'll be surprised and alright with it.

Avoid using the same type of wash as the paint.  If you use an oil-based paint for the basecoat, an want to still use oil-based wash, you'll have to lay down a clear acrylic *middle coat*, so that the wash doesn't affect the basecoat...

I avoid the complexity of *middle coats* by just going with acrylic for basecoats (ease of application), and oil-based for washes (better performance)...

Again, if you try to use an enamel wash over enamel paint, you are very, very likely to ruin the basecoat...and vice versa for acrylics.

As far as mixing ratio...it's not rocket science...make it pretty thin, almost a cloudy/muddy consistency...my washes will separate after sitting in the bottle for awhile, so I just give it a little bit of stir to bring up enough settled paint from the bottom of the bottle to get it as *dirty* as I need....so sometimes I use a real heavy dirty wash and stir the bottle really well to get all the paint mixed up, and sometimes I just barely disturb the settled paint with my brush to get a light wash...

When you use washes, do you wash with the same type of paint, like acrylics on acrylic and enamel on enamel? That's where I get confused.

I like to use Future if I want to have sharp details pop in my wash (need a gloss finish) such as panel lines, molded screens, etc. I also like to use a wash over a flat clear to act as a filter to either darken or fade the colors. I really don't have a formula for mixing. I t should be thinner with very little paint, sort of a glaze.

The clear, could I use Future? I know when I start this, I'm gonna have more questions than answers. Like, as someone stated to start with the lower sails and work your way up because of all the lines that'd be in your way. And how to determine the % of water/turpentine to paint? I tried this once, that didn't work out!! lol

David K

I use the same method for washes, make my own out of artists oils and Gum Turpentine. I use enamel paints but use an acrylic clear over as a barrier, I agree about the acrylic washes not behaving like the solvent based ones. For what a small Mig wash bottle costs, I can make 10 times more for less.

Well, you still have the knack! I love the way it shows detail that you wouldn't get with just "painting'. Hope mine comes out half as good. I've been studying and studying the plans on putting this together til I'm blue in the face, I don't want to screw it up.  I know I probably shouldn't, but I'm leaning towards painting it flat black with a grimy black wash. I'm still looking for a figurehead to go with it, but to no avail. I read those old post from 2011-2012 on the Black Pearl/Swan over and over. Got a good deal out of a California based hobby shop, $104, but I looked for about 2 months, patience is sacred! I saw a Black Pearl on Ebay, $10!!!!! But the shipping was $200! WOW! Anyways, when I get my mind set on the color, I will start this, but not until then. Thank you for your tips, you do great work I might add, awesome job. Thanks, Dave.

Yes, I will receive it today. Been wanting to do this one for ages. Found a good price out of California, so snatched it up. Have done 2 others, Cutty Sark & Constitution, which didn't come out too bad. Now I will tackle this one and take my sweet time. Thanks for the info, will keep all in mind when I come to those steps.

IMG_0470 by davidpkump, on Flickr

Yay, it worked!  Sorry, it's been awhile since I posted any pics here!  :)

Hmmm...doesn't look like the photo posted...here, I'll try again:

Mr2Bill4-

I haven't used Testor's washes, but I have *tested* (kind of a pun!) many types of washes in my search for a good performer...maybe my input will be helpful.

Depending on the type of paint you use for your model, you'll want to keep in mind the type of wash you use.  If you're using an oil-based paint, then you want to avoid oil-based washes.  If you're using an acrylic base coat, then acrylic washes can be used, only if you're careful and use a light touch, and don't over-work it as you apply it.

However, I haven't found a way to get a decent wash out of any acrylic medium...it seems to me that it always floats over the carrier (usually water or alcohol), and then as the wash dries, the pigment doesn't stay settled into the crevices, which is where you (presumably) want it.

Some people use acrylic paint diluted in water, acrylic thinner, or alcohol...some people use india ink diluted in alcohol.  Like I said, I haven't been able to get good results from these.  I also tried a commercially available wash from a company, but I didn't like it...it was just a smoky-colored paint that didn't settle, it just toned-down the overall basecoat color...so I gave up on pre-made washes.

My preferred method of wash is to use artist's oil paint (the kind that comes in a tube at the art store), diluted in odorless mineral spirits (turpenoid)...it settles nicely, and stays in the crevices...depending on the base color I'm using, I can quickly mix up a specific blend of colors to make the shadows how I want them...but I also keep a bottle of pre-mixed black/brown that I use for the most common big-area washes over *wooden* ship colors (the kind of kits I build mostly these days)...

The thing to remember with oil-based washes like the one I'm describing is that if it is applied over an oil-based coat of paint, it will soften the underlying paint and can cause the basecoat to come off...no fun.

So I use acrylic basecoats only, and apply oil washes....that way, there's no reaction with the underlying paint...

Some people don't like acrylics for painting...my only problem with it is that it's not as durable fo a finish as oil-based paints, and can be chipped or scraped off easily...but the mixing, cleanup, and lack of fumes make it worthwhile to me....

Anyway, hope that helps...I noticed a tag on your post for the Zvezda Black Swan...is that your current kit??  I LOVED building that one!  Please share your progress updates!

Thanks,

Dave

P.S.- Here's a pic of my Santa Maria hull, after just a base coat with a little bit of my oil-based wash...you can see how it stays in the corners and adds some good shading....