HOW TO APPY WOOD DECKS

I used the contact cement method on my Scaledecks veneer for my Connie w/ out any problems. The decking is only .008" thick. Very translucent. Just be sure to spread the adhesive as evenly as possible.

How about decks that are so thin that they are translucent? Does the glue show through where applied?

I am a big fan of contact cement, but it is totally unforgiving, if you place it wrong, you're screwed. The way I avoid this is to first do a dry fit to make sure everything lines up correctly on the cut-outs. Contact cement is applied to both surfaces. Until they touch, they will not stick to anything so I use tooth picks or bamboo skewers that are placed crosswise to the decking every few inches so that you can slowly work your way down the length of the deck keeping the alignment right and removing your shims as you go. You really, really have to make sure you get it started correctly and take you time with it, but nothing sticks better that I know of and you do not need to prep the deck other than to wipe off any dust or particles.

Don, I agreed with you. Where even wood decks panted I will leave without the wood as the intention is to use only where the deck should be painted with wood colors. Lets see in that time if it will not causa a step difference along the corners.

I find it is most applicable to ships with large deck areas that have unfinished wood. If they are painted as they frequently were in WW2, then it is not as important. I would not use the wood decks for ship models with painted decks, even if the painted decks were wood.

Thank you for the reply, I have yet to install one so you most likely saved me from making a major mistake and a lot of frustration.  My first attempt will be on Trumpeter 1907 Dreadnought I am slowly moving along on.

Without question. You know how it is Marcus with aftermarket stuff.

I seen on YouTube were the wood deck is pre-cut and all you have to do is peel off the backing and apply.  So you are saying that even with the pre-cut decks it is best to cut out the openings along with the backing and pre-fit?

Don't know the answer, I have always primed it. The reason for that is that all the stuff sticking through holes in the wood like hatches and so forth needs to be painted first, and theres no sense in masking the plastic deck if its getting covered up.

The glue that comes applied seems to work really well IMO. Where problems occur is fit- you don't get a second chance and if you force fit, like push down hard on an area say between two turret rings with the butt of an xacto handle, it will buckle up later.

Better to cut and test fit before taking off the backing.

Painted deck:

Wood deck:

Is it better to leave the plastic deck un-primed before installing the wood deck or should you prime it first?

As Don said, it varies from product to product.

I've only used wood decks three times. The self adhesive is usually enough, but on one of them I had to go back and squirt superglue in around some of the edges.

I generally am not a big fan...

But for a ship with lots of deck, it can be a plus. Your Snowberry is probably a good one. It's a big model so the deck boards are probably close if not scale, and theres room for adjustment.

Good luck.

One thing you could try is if your deck has any extra, like punch outs for the gun tubs etc., use the piece and test it.

Dear Dom an JMorrinson,

Many thanks your messages I understand from both that the most critical part of this would be at time you position every thing before glue, but I still in doubt about the deck preparation to receive the wood part, do I heve to cover with any kind of product to have the wood deck really glued to the kit's deck?

Once again many thanks for your kind attention and best regards.

Absolutely, because I find that usually they don't fit exactly. It takes a bit of trimming here and there, which is really frustrating once it's stuck on. Forcing it will make it buckle.

Depends on the vendor.  Some decks come with great adhesive, others the adhesive is so poor that folks are using additional adhesives.  However, the ones with really good adhesive present another challenge.  The decks are very fragile, so you must have the deck absolutely ready to position.  All excess must be trimmed, and the internal openings for deck fittings and such must ALL be punched out- it is not possible to pull it off to remove a forgotten punch-out area.  And you must take great care in positioning- it is very difficult to reposition once applied.