Sure- On Victory, I've hit a significant stalling point which is how to represent the visible decks. These include the weather decks and the visible central area of the upper gun deck visible through the boat beams.
The pluses of the kit are that the gun decks are in two halfs split stem-to-stern, in order to get them down into the wider parts of the hull.
The minuses- overdone grain, recessed pitch joints, incorrect plank butt pattern.
I painted the lowest two a warm grey which looks fine as there's not much to see through the gun ports.
I first tried to replace the upper deck with a single large piece of styrene (a for-rent sign) that I was going to mask and paint planks onto. Someone creative may want to try that with a digital printer. I quickly gave up.
My next idea was to buy prescribed basswood and scribe in the plank butts. Maybe a little better, but then you get the monotony of a single piece of wood.
It was suggested that laying up the deck with scale planks over the plastic works. My hesitations were that it would raise the guns up too high in their ports, that it would bury the hatch and grating coamings somewhat, and that it would be very hard to do.
But recently I tried just that technique on my WIP yacht America. I put a little effort into setting recessed deck supports into the hull to keep the deck level where it belongs. That actually was really a chore on America because Revell has a continuous waterway channel cast onto the inside of the bulwark, plus a bunch of over grained stanchions and horizontal planks. It all had to go.
On Victory however, it's a lot easier. Because the deck is split and has no rigidity, there are a whole bunch of little plastic beams that get glued in.
Another story there- Heller famously got the numbering wrong in the illustrations and it's a nightmare. But I replaced them all with square brass tubing that made the hull much more rigid, AND I was able to camber them.
So setting those low, installing the plastic deck with all of the coamings removed, and planking it will be the way to go. That way I can have a king plank, too.
Which type of glue to use is a little bit of a trial. I used CA on the yacht, which allowed me to work fast. But inevitably a little gets up on the top, and it doesn't take stain so the little guys were pressed to "sand" the decks. But laying the planks is downright FUN! Rather than precut the planks, I trace the beam locations onto the base layer, lay down a strip and "chop" it in place with a very sharp razor blade.