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Project to Tackle-RMS Titanic

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52 replies
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  • Member since
    December 2014
Posted by Antihero on Tuesday, December 16, 2014 1:11 AM

Glad to hear that -- I haven't touched the contents of the box yet so I didn't know the wood is very thin. But seeing your photos makes me want to start on my kit. Looking forward to more pics!

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Monday, December 15, 2014 10:55 AM

The wood decks in this kit are so paper-thin. I don't believe it would change the height of the decks in any noticeable way.

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    December 2014
Posted by Antihero on Sunday, December 14, 2014 12:59 AM

I also bought this same kit 2 years ago because I was disappointed with their 1998 "completely retooled" issue, particularly the thick, out-of-scale railings, stairs, etc. Those parts were nicely replaced by PE in this Centenary Edition. Yes, I agree with Modelsheek91 that it's a shame to tear up the bags and start on the kit because it's beautifully presented by Academy -- that I feel it's better left untouched and displayed as is!

If I were to decide to remove mine from storage and start building this, I might not use the wood decks because it'll raise the floor to a few millimeters too high. I guess it's best to sand the plastic wood decks before applying the overlays.

The reason why I gave up on my first Titanic more than 10 years ago is because it was a difficult build because I still didn't have a rotary tool, an airbrush, etc. Now I'm well-equipped to tackle on my 2nd kit.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, December 5, 2014 4:13 PM

Those finials look really good. I always model on a temporary base, and I also like the base to be longer than the ship to protect it.

Wood decks if they have self stick cant be glued with anything else. The biggest buckling problem I've encountered is when they dont really fit and you try to force them down. That'll always backfire. But if you test-trim-test before sticking them on, they should be fine.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by Matt OBrien on Thursday, December 4, 2014 3:55 PM

Those are actually mooring points for when the ship was tied up. I made the mistake of drilling them out, thinking they were portholes. Found out differently after the hole was drilled and the deck was in place. All of the "holes" along that line of the hull are mooring points (don't know what the nautical term actually is).

If you were to REALLY go for realism you would cut a really small piece of wire and glue it horizontally across the opening and feather it into the hull on either side of the hole. There were a couple more that are located further down toward the waterline but they are mixed in with the portholes. I just let those go. The detail is so small, I don't think anyone viewing my model will notice.

Matt

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Wednesday, December 3, 2014 7:46 PM

Ok, I need to pick everyone's brains. There is a run of portholes (?) on both side of the hull. I have not seen any pictures where there is light coming through them. What are these holes?

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Wednesday, December 3, 2014 7:37 PM

So, in preparation for lighting this beast up, I have begun the process of drilling out the hull's portholes. It is a bigger job than I first thought! I finished the job up, only to have someone tell me that I should drill out AT LEAST 75% of the holes (not the roughly 30% that I did). Grrrr.

Maybe I should get that Archimedes drill which will make the job a breeze....

So, I have glued together my deck crane base (whoooooohoooo!) Looking at the model as a whole, that really does not seem like a big deal. 

Some pieces to be used later. Finials in the background. Still unsure what colour to paint those parts that fit onto the hull on the finials (a pale gray in the picture). I have primed them to be ready, but now I have to decide: dark blue or dark grey, or neither and pick black.

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: 29° 58' N 95° 21' W
Posted by seasick on Sunday, November 30, 2014 10:26 PM

Super nice build!

Chasing the ultimate build.

  • Member since
    June 2012
  • From: Kidderminster, U.K.
Posted by Jockster on Sunday, November 30, 2014 4:54 AM

Hello from across the pond Modelsheek, I too have this in the stash, great kit. The fly-tying thread is Uni-Caenis and extremely thin but looks excellent in use. A lot of modelers also use EZ line too which I believe is slightly elastic.

If you do intend lighting her up, now is the time to start thinking about laying down some paint inside the hull and decks as this will help stop light bleeding through and making the whole model 'glow'. I use bare metal foil as much as possible. Usually the kind on a roll for heating and air con ducting.

Discount stores sell LED flashlights which have multiple LEDs and can be stripped down to produce lighting circuits at low cost.

Hope this helps. Glad you chose to avoid building this to a deadline, it is too much model for only a few months work. You should be looking at least a year to do this justice. There are good instructions with the kit that tell you what needs painting before you lay the deck too.

Look forward to following your build.

On the bench-1/350 Zvezda Varyag, Trumpeter Slava class Varyag and Tamiya CVN65 Enterprise. 1/400 Academy Titanic and 1/96 DeAgostini Victory.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Saturday, November 29, 2014 3:35 PM

modelsheek91

I think have come to a tough decision. I will not try to hurriedly finish this kit for the deadline in February (of 2015). That would just put too much stress on me, and I want to enjoy the build, not rush through it. I will build it at my own pace, and not worry about getting it done.

 Good decision; this is, for most of us, a hobby. Too many other things in life have "must be done" deadlines.  

modelsheek91

I another topic, I am going attempt to light it up. This will hail a new accomplishment when (or if) I can pull it off. I have, too this point, never lit a kit up. Boy, do I pick a tough beginning...

 Are you out of your knoodle? have you lost all your sense?  Doing what you want to on your own model- trying something new and different !?  you are too cheeky by half......
p.s. I'll be looking forward to your progress and accomplishments as they come

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Friday, November 28, 2014 1:35 PM

I think have come to a tough decision. I will not try to hurriedly finish this kit for the deadline in February (of 2015). That would just put too much stress on me, and I want to enjoy the build, not rush through it. I will build it at my own pace, and not worry about getting it done.

In another topic, I am going attempt to light it up. This will hail a new accomplishment when (or if) I can pull it off. I have, too this point, never lit a kit up. Boy, do I pick a tough beginning...

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Thursday, November 27, 2014 8:03 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to get some soon!

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by Matt OBrien on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 12:55 PM

I've been using grey fly-tying thread for all of my cranes and ship rigging. It's dirt cheap, you get a ton of it on a small spool and you can pretty much find it at any decent sporting-goods store. I recommend a 6/0 or an 8/0 size. The brand I've been using is called UNI-Thread.

Matt

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 6:17 AM

I used some thin fishing line I had from a previous build. You can buy it for next to nothing at Wal-Mart.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 5:53 AM

Any recommendations as to what would be the best material to rig the cranes with? Nylon thread is probably too thick. Is stretched sprue the best, or can anyone recommend something better?

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Monday, November 24, 2014 3:56 PM

Another thought or two. Many of the deck pieces have precut places where you need to remove material so it can fit around molded in places on the plastic. Be sure to do this prior to removing the decking from it's backer sheet. These openings will greatly aid it the correct placement of the deck. I had zero issues getting the pieces properly placed. A few of the wood pieces are so large I was concerned it would cause problems so I cut them in half along a line between deck planks. This makes the cut all but invisible after they're installed. When you start doing it you'll see what I mean.

When removing the molded on benches there are a few that will leave a hole in the deck. Don't be alarmed because this will disappear once the wood is added.

Rigging the cranes is actually easy and worth the effort because they're so prominently seen.

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Monday, November 24, 2014 2:39 PM

I used my sprue cutter and then a file to remove the molded on benches and a few other details. There's no need to save them because they're going to be replaced with PE parts. The wooden decks need to be added fairly earlier in the build because so many other parts will be installed over them. Be sure that any painting is done prior to attaching parts to the wood. The wood pieces look intimidating but actually install with ease.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Monday, November 24, 2014 8:25 AM

Shipshape

Nice and where did you find them, looks great.  The ones from Pontos are great looking as well, but the price, plus ship makes, them very exspensive too me!  Looking forward to more of the build.

Question.......crane booms, do you not have these as PE, much closer to scale and alot clearner in look!

Rick from NC

Yes, I will be using the PE-they are MUCH nicer. I am also going to attempt to rig the cranes-is it worth it, or is it scale-wise incorrect?

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Monday, November 24, 2014 8:23 AM

So, I have started to plan how I am going to do the model. I just found out yesterday that in order to attach the wood deck, several raised details have to be cut off.

Is there a good way to go about doing this cleanly, and so that the pieces are salvaged to be re-attached.

Second, should I go ahead and attach the wood deck before attaching thins like the vent pipes and bollards?

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Sunday, November 23, 2014 8:24 AM

modelsheek91

Ha ha, Steve. But no, you are right, I did get them done. Whadda ya think?

 

Those look amazing.  Well done

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Thursday, November 20, 2014 8:17 AM

Actually, they are modified lamp pulls from Home Depot. They weren't more than $10 bucks for three of them.

I am actually not sure if I have PE for the crane booms. I will have to check. The kit has so far been very detailed, so I would be surprised if Academy looked that over.

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    October 2014
  • From: Down Dixie Way
Posted by Shipshape on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 6:17 PM

Nice and where did you find them, looks great.  The ones from Pontos are great looking as well, but the price, plus ship makes, them very exspensive too me!  Looking forward to more of the build.

Question.......crane booms, do you not have these as PE, much closer to scale and alot clearner in look!

Rick from NC

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Tuesday, November 18, 2014 6:27 PM

Ha ha, Steve. But no, you are right, I did get them done. Whadda ya think?

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Tuesday, November 18, 2014 4:23 PM

So, I guess you mean, you "finally" got the finial done? 

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Monday, November 17, 2014 8:16 AM

I have finally finished the finials that are for use with the display stand. I think they look quite sharp. They were from Home Depot, and I modified them to fit. I broke the ceramic 'knob' off, and then used a cut-off disc to chop the screw part in half. I then attached a nut and washer to the original finial base and voila, it was done. 

My finial looked like this one, but brass instead of the horrible bronze-black in the picture.

 

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Sunday, November 2, 2014 7:21 PM

I have finished the clean of the deck cranes-large and small. Aside from the grainy image, the cranes themselves look pretty good.

Here is a view of the two sizes:

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Friday, October 31, 2014 8:12 AM

I took a look at Tom's PE stuff, specifically for deck chairs, not benches, and I came up short. I have had a local hobby shop order a set of 400 scale deck chairs for another, more modern ship, but I can't seem to find deck chairs specifically for a 400 scale Titanic.

Thanks for the advice on the Future! I have a bottle of it in the paint cabinet, and I will be sure to put it to good use.

Also, thanks for the soldering tips. My skill level with soldering is nill, so I probably should not dapple in it.

I don't have a 'Hold N' Fold', but I did pick up a very conveniently sized PE bender last week, but I will look at eBay's supply of HNFs. Thanks

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

  • Member since
    October 2014
  • From: Down Dixie Way
Posted by Shipshape on Thursday, October 30, 2014 6:54 PM

Hello, I happen upon your thread and read all the postings.  I too have this kit and also added the complete Tom's PE sets for this vessel as well as what came in the kit.  I won't go into alot about why, just that Tom's PE has some things that the kit set does not and I like the bench's from Tom's better, but the kit ones are easier to make/bend.  Here is a tip, Hold and Fold........a must have for building and using PE on such a large and complex scale model ship.  This can be found on eBay from the small cheaper version, to the larger do it  all expensive one.

As for does one need to solder the PE, that depends on your skill @ doing such as this.  With proper care and attention to what one is doing, this is the best way to join/assemble PE bar none, but also is the hardest to do.  One must learn how to draw heat away from the fine brass etched parts and to allow the solder to get a grip and hold.  I could only recommend this to the most advanced of modelers looking to do this type PE work.  And you will need some very exspensive equipement.

Now with that said, what else is available to attach PE, well for starters here one that has worked many years for me, Future Floor Wax.  Apply to part, place where you want it and after it has dried, apply again around the object and I promise, that part will stay there until you physically pull it off.  Now this does not work for assembles, say like a deck house, for that CA works just fine.  But remember, alittle will hold alot.

And of couse there is clear fingernail polish, that too can be used for attaching small parts to your deck/hull.  Even PVA will hold small PE in place, then after painting, the object will stay put unless pulled free.  All of these are ways I attach to my ship models.  My best suggestion, go easy, use alittle PE here and there and get a feel, then go for the gusto on a project such as this most wonderful kit.

Will be following and watching to see how this turns out.  Good luck and happy modeling.

Rick in NCCool

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: this room
Posted by modelsheek91 on Thursday, October 30, 2014 7:48 AM

I think I have found some finials at the local Home Depot, though they come attached to some ceramic rounds-which will have to be removed. I will post pics of the 'usable' finials when they are ready. As to the nameplate, I may mask and than prime, which will remove the need for sanding. I think to get into all of the letter nooks and crannies would be more trouble than it is worth. I have also given some thought of having a nameplate custom made.

On the bench:

Too much

In the hangar:

Again....too much

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