SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Displaying ship models

2359 views
11 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Displaying ship models
Posted by jtilley on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 2:35 PM

I feel uncomfortable in writing this. In the ten-plus years that I've been taking part in this Forum, I've always made it my policy to comment favorably on models that impress me favorably and keep my mouth shut about models that don't. That being the case, I'm not going to comment on the article about sailing ships in the December FSM. It does, however, make me feel obliged to offer one strong suggestion.

I also don't believe in pronouncing anything other modelers do as "right" or "wrong." But folks, when you mount a ship model on a base, please make sure the waterline is horizontal. In the case of a ship like the yacht America, which draws a lot more water aft than forward, that means the pedestal (or keel block, or whatever) at the bow has to be be taller than the one at the stern. If the keel is the same distance from the base at both ends, the model will look like it's about to stick its nose into the trough of the next wave.

I'm much aware that I'm opening myself up to legitimate criticism here. I've never submitted an article to FSM; I feel guilty for not putting my money where my mouth is. For what it's worth, I am, for the first time ever, taking in-progress color photos of the model I'm currently working on. If it goes reasonably well I'll post some of the pictures here in the Forum, and send in an article when it's done in the hope that the editors may think it's good enough for publication. I hope some other sailing ship enthusiasts will do likewise. I'm sure we'd all like to see FSM publish sailing ship articles that come up to the standards of the ones about aircraft, armor, and modern warships.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 2:55 PM

I understand that publishing sometimes lags by a year or more. I may not make it that far LOL.

But seriously, it'd be great if you put up a WIP post. I'd enjoy it!

I haven't seen the article but I get the drift, as I have a couple of schooners in hand.

I think that kind of comment is really helpful from you.

As for keel blocks, I chimed in on one shown here online. The keel was flat in principle, however the model was a little bowed (no crime) and there was daylight between the keel and about the middle 50% of the model. It really looked strange. Easy enough to "suck" the hull down flat with a couple well placed screws.

Frankly the whole idea of a "keel block" display confounds me a little. At really small scale, like 1/350, a big ship looks ok. But the blocks usually used in model display have no relationship whatsoever to reality. But it looks ok.

At 1/64 however, it becomes part of the scale model.

I have a download of a drydock masters handbook somewhere from a previous discussion about this. Its a pretty complicated deal, having to do with the locations of the frames and longerons (airplane term), the disposion of the holds, and so forth. Most such set ups I've seen first hand or in pictures involve pedestals of cribbed timber, jacks, wedges and all kinds of other stuff.

My best guess would be that the schooner would have been lifted and set into a cradle.

That model has, in addition to a poor little stand, a false keel for pond sailing!

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:26 AM

"my policy to comment favorably on models that impress me favorably and keep my mouth shut about models that don't".....

John, I have to call you out on this one....jokingly,  and with irreverence....

You are known as the man who coined the term HECEPOB...

Hahaha!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:27 AM

Let me also say that I would love to see a WIP from you...

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:04 AM

Yeah, I've shot my mouth off lots of times about kit MANUFACTURERS. (Not only the Fiends of HECEPOBdom, but Revell, Heller, and several others.) I regard them as fair game. But I've always tried to avoid making negative comments on the folks who build models. I think that sort of behavior is counter-productive in what is, for most of us, a hobby.

I've been snapping pictures of my kitbashed fishing schooner, which is now almost ready to be planked. But I don't want to show it to the public until I'm reasonably confident that I'm not going to botch it up. I've been known to do that - especially since the medical problems I had a few years back.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, November 4, 2014 4:35 PM

Strange display

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, November 5, 2014 9:28 AM

I had a model recently where one of the mounting posts broke loose.  I use clear plastic rod for the posts, and drill the holes in the base all the way through (I probably shouldn't).  The rods were not quite the same length, so when it came loose it dropped about 3/16 inch, and didn't notice long enough before taking to a contest to allow fixing.  Sure felt sorry at that contest- even that small amount had that ship bow up by several degrees.  Was easily able to fix it after show, but wonder how many points I lost because of that :-)

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Thursday, November 6, 2014 10:25 AM

My America has been in a planking vise now for over two years because I haven't decided how to mount it on the display base.  Launching ways looked too "busy"so I have some commercial pedestals I bought, but they make the deck off balance. Time to turn my own pedestals.  

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, November 6, 2014 12:04 PM

Similar question in my mind but I still have a ways to go.

Lots of pictures of models online. Two unequal height pedestals look to be the way to go. I'm thinking square section wood, with a notch in the top for the keel.

I also like Don's suggestion, except its a little harder when the model has a real keel.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, November 7, 2014 9:26 AM

Yes indeed, with a ship with a prominent keel I drill the holes in the hull before the keel is put on, then just ignore the missing keel through the post.  I suppose some folks object to that, but it looks okay to me.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Friday, November 7, 2014 3:14 PM

A few points to think about. One - nothing says a mounting pedestal has to be metal. I've seen some mighty nice ones that were turned from wood. My favorites are cherry and maple, with walnut a close third. It's worth looking at the "turning blanks," sold by places like woodcraft.com for making pens. Dozens of nice, exotic species in small pieces for reasonable prices.

Two - nothing says it has to be round. GM's idea of square pedestals sounds perfectly ok.

I would suggest doing a little woodworking on them, so they don't look like any old scrap of wood. Just a little shaping with knife, chisel, and file can make a big difference. And apply a nice finish. (If you don't have much practice, it's tough to go wrong with Minwax polyurethane varnish, which you can buy by the half pint.)

Some of the nicest mounts I've seen are very simple, small cradles shaped from ebony or rosewood. The late Donald McNarry (My Hero) mounted quite a few of his models like that.

My biggest suggestion is that the way a model is displayed has a great deal to do with the success of its overall appearance. It may be tempting to ignore the problem until the project is almost done, and then be satisfied with whatever you can throw together in an hour. (After all, there's another model waiting to be built.) A better idea: figure out the mounting system at the beginning of the job. And work out a way for it to hold the model really securely.

For my current fishing schooner, I think I'm going to take a leaf out of Pyro's book: a simple, single, notched block of figured wood under the hull forward of amidships, with the aft end of the keel sitting directly on the bottom of the case. To my eye, that's a good way to show off that particular hull shape. I've been messing around with basswood dummies, trying to get the proportions right. Haven't succeeded yet, but I hope to before it's time to make the real block (out of buckeye burl, think).

Personally, I find this a fun part of model building.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, November 7, 2014 5:51 PM

For my AL Swift.i used a cradle coped out of red oak along with a car touche  name plate.   

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.