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WATERLINES , The easiest way ?

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  • Member since
    August 2008
WATERLINES , The easiest way ?
Posted by tankerbuilder on Thursday, January 22, 2015 4:02 PM

The truth is , unless you have been doing this for a lot of years , there is no easy way , Or is there ? Well . I got to thinking the other day about another chapter in my book and something came to mind from Waaaaay Back in time .

     I was building a sail Chesapeake Bay oyster boat ( Skipjack ) . I remembered something in the instructions that has stuck with me all these years . I had the boat sitting in it's building stand , all nice and level and needed to mark the waterline for painting . I did what was recommended and made a stand that held the boat steady for the bow . and let the keel rest on the table - top . I checked it for level .

       I then took some balsa blocks and LEGO and built a stand that would allow me to sweep from bow to stern and across the transom  area with a pencil . The bow stand had to be sturdy enough to hold the boat level , port to starboard too .

    It was . Now , all these years later If I am doing a full hull ship model , regardless of scale , I get out my rig and do the Waterline and Boot stripe too . You can make them out of anything and you can even buy one specially made in metal . Micro-Mark sells them and so does a lot of other places .

     I am not saying everyone can free-hand these lines , but I still do .You can also tape the lines and paint away ! Just making sure you remove the tape after the Boot stripe  application or you'll have a hard rough line there . There is one more thing here that applies to a ship under the water .The color of screws (propellers ) As most of you know the screws are a bronzish color  .Not Brass and not silver.  Just a happy in between . Testors square bottle - Brass . Dump a third for mixing room . Add One Drop of Copper and Two drops of Chrome silver .  Shake the stuffing out of it . Oh , and don't do this without the cap being on tight ! Or , you and your " T " shirt will be some real funny looking colored patterns .Your work-space too !

     When you get this all done , you will have a " Beautiful Bottom ", Not yours , the boat , silly ! You can use Modelmaster Rust for most hulls toned with a little flat white . Unless you want that Museum perfect look . To age the screws add more silver paint . I have started doing a lot of my speed-boats like my avatar with Beret  green/ Light -Bright Olive and also Oriole light  Blue/ Haze grey .  they look unique and liners and ferries look great with the Green and then a Gold Boot stripe !     Tanker - Builder

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, January 25, 2015 8:26 AM

Then, there is always black striping tape for the faint-hearted!

Bill

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Tuesday, January 27, 2015 9:33 AM

Ah ! My friend , can I interest you in some ancient artifacts ?

   I think it is very old .You can feel it after you apply it  .Not like the new stuff you get now all smooth and nice !

  Yes Bill , I DO use striping tape now and then .

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 9:12 AM

As many of us do, I am sure! ;-)

Bill

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 9:21 AM

I got to wondering why they finish waterlines the way they do.  At first I don't think they painted above and below waterline differently.  But they applied a gloppy protective coating below waterline. Then came the chemically protective paints.  Paint line usually followed waterline, but not always.

I think it would make an interesting article on how today's painted and boot-topped finishes evolved.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 11:37 AM

Don Stauffer

I got to wondering why they finish waterlines the way they do.  At first I don't think they painted above and below waterline differently.  But they applied a gloppy protective coating below waterline. Then came the chemically protective paints.  Paint line usually followed waterline, but not always.

I think it would make an interesting article on how today's painted and boot-topped finishes evolved.

I wonder if the introduction of fuel oil was a factor.  A dark coloring at the waterline would help hide oil stains, especially for a ship riding at anchor in a harbor.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 11:56 AM

Well I Google Boot Topping and it comes up the area between the waterlines when the ship is empty or fully loaded.  Seems it would be an option for the builder to add it to the hull or not.

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 3:02 PM

Ah Yes ;

      The thing is , most Waterlines are for the ship at full fuel and cargo, passengers etc . The Boot stripe keeps everything looking good .The " Boot Stripe " was intended to keep ships clean like in the harbor , at anchor and on a buoy .This way oil or coal dust didn't create a dirty line on the hulls .

   Many ships don't have them because they use the old Plimsoll method for knowing how deep or shallow the ship is sitting . The painted surfaces are based on a loaded waterline .

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, January 31, 2015 10:41 PM

About to set the line for the red oxide on my SS Evelyn. I generally follow the idea of setting the model level and scribing a line- but.

its hard to do because models aren't all that well made to begin with, and after they get  glued together it's pretty much eyeball spec.

so I end up doing arms length eyeball set up.

tips: don't draw a line- mark little dots. Much easier to correct.

when you think you have an idea where the cut line is, do it with 3mm or 1/8" flexible tape. Move it around, get it right.

then double up with the cheap wide stuff. 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Monday, February 2, 2015 9:03 AM

Hey G;

What kind of ship is she ? Some had pretty straight bottoms that would allow you to sit it on the bench and create that line like I described  .I do like the idea of dots as to the line rather than a pencil line all the way around .

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, February 2, 2015 10:35 AM

Take a look in the Q ship thread. She's a 1912 built medium sized freighter with a pretty constant center section and a level keel. I've got her on a temporary base that's got force fit mounting posts so she's adjustable to level.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, February 2, 2015 10:38 AM

Funny now that I think on it but in my collection of photos I don't see any draft markings. Is that (un)usual?

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, February 11, 2015 11:41 AM

Gee;

   Now that's a good question . Maybe they didn't put them on to fool U-Boats ? I seem to remember all the ships I sailed on had them .The difference in salinity between the cold Atlantic and the Warm Pacific .

   A cold sea causes the ship to sit different so the " Plimsoll " device aided in loading for the voyage and thus seaworthiness ,  Warm water caused the ship to sit higher !         T.B.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, February 11, 2015 5:45 PM

For marking waterlines on hulls that don't already have them marked, check this out:

www.woodcraft.com/.../AccuScribe-Pro.aspx

I have the simpler (and slightly cheaper) version that preceded this one. It works great.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, February 11, 2015 6:30 PM

I bet I could make one of those from scratch for twice the money, a couple of hours and it probably would work about half as well. I LIKE.

Tanks, I mean on the as launched cargo ship. I need to look at the pictures again- they're on the other thread somewhere.

I've also been thinking ahead how to get "EVELYN" on the hull, three times. It occurs to me that all of the letters occur in the word Pennsylvania and decals with that word are pretty easy to come by in bulk. But the railroad used a super extended serif font, and didn't much dabble in sans serif until the sad, horrible period of the Penn Central. Dark days indeed.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

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