Mighty nice model, and a fine step toward something fancier.
The last thing I want to do is turn this thread into a long list of criticisms, but I can offer a few suggestions for next time.
The "club" Cap'n Mac referred to is the small spar attached vertically behind the main topmast. It is, in fact, the gaff topsail yard. The gaff topsail is a more-or-less triangular sail that's set between the topmast and the gaff (the diagonal spar that swings just under the main lower masthead). I agree with Cap'n Mac: the gaff topsail yard would be lowered to the deck when the gaff topsail and mainsail were furled. My suggestion would be to just leave it off.
The main gaff would, indeed, be lowered with the mainsail when the latter was furled, and would end up on top of the furled mainsail on the boom. That's almost (but not quite) for certain. There were two ways to handle a gaff-and-boom-rigged sail: with a hoisting gaff or a standing gaff. Big ships like clippers, which had gaff-and-boom-rigged spankers on their mizzen masts, usually seem to have used the standing gaff. In that rig, the sail gets hauled up and furled against the mast and the gaff. But an enormous gaff-and-boom-rigged sail, like the one on this schooner, almost certainly would have a hoisting gaff. The first step in furling the sail would be to lower the gaff, so the sail got sandwiched between the gaff and the boom. The gaskets securing the furled sail would be wrapped around all three: gaff, sail, and boom.
I'm far less certain about the foresail, which is loose-footed gaff-rigged (with no boom). I'm inclined to think that in a mid-nineteenth-century revenue cutter the foresail would have a standing gaff - as 1943Mike has shown it. The gaff would stay aloft at all times, and the sail would be gathered against the gaff and the mast. (The geometry of just what that sail looks like when it's furled is a little complicated, but essentially it's a long, skinny sausage running along the bottom of the gaff and the back of the mast.) I've seen a few pictures of loose-footed foresails with their gaffs lowered and the sails furled to the gaffs, but not many.
Cap'nMac may be right about the fore topsail yard being sent down to the deck when the sail was furled, but not necessarily. It might have been rigged more-or-less permanently aloft. If so, when the sail was furled the yard would be lowered until it was sitting on, or slightly above, the lower mast cap.
To my eye the furled sails don't look bad at all. My only suggestion (for next time) would be to cut the "canvas" for the square-rigged sails as trapezoids, so the "bundles" are a bit fatter in the middle than at the ends. That's how a real furled sail generally looks, because the clewlines haul the clews (lower corners) of the sail up to the middle of the yard.
That "continuous strip" approach to copper sheathing will work up to a point. And I wouldn't worry about the cuts between plates showing the hull surface. The trouble is that the surface being coppered is full of compound curves. Therefore not all the strips will be the full length of the ship - and quite a few of the plates will be triangles, rather than rectangles. I've always coppered hulls with individual plates, and haven't found it particularly difficult - at least with a small ship on a large scale. (If I remember right, I coppered my little Model Shipways Phantom with individual plates in one evening. The Bounty took two or three.) The trick is to figure out just where each row of plating is supposed to go. To describe that verbally is beyond my capacity, but there are quite a few good books that show it.
One trick that might help with the coppering. The tape comes in widths that are usually too wide for scale copper sheathing plates. My approach to that was to peel the backing off a foot or so of the tape, and stick the copper down lightly to a piece of glass. Then, using a straightedge, I cut the strip to the proper width (about 1/8" for the Phantom, slightly over 1/16" for the Bounty). Then I chopped off the individual plates, using an X-acto knife with a chisel blade. Then it was just a matter of peeling each plate off the glass and sticking it to the model. Last, I firmly burnished the whole hull. The adhesive on the copper of the Phantom has now held for ten or fifteen years, without any sign of coming loose. For the Bounty I cut up sheets of copper - mainly because I didn't know the tape was available (sigh) - and glued the plates to the hull with contact cement. It's now held for thirty-five years.
Overall, a fine model of a most attractive little ship. I'm sure we'll all be looking forward to seeing what comes next from this shipyard.
P.S. I see a drawing poking into a couple of those photos that looks vaguely familiar.