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HeLLeR 1/100 1700 ship of the line

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  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, December 28, 2015 10:36 AM

goldhammer

Got to wonder who has two starboard halves.

I like the way you think!

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, December 28, 2015 9:34 AM

Makes doing a cut away a lot easier.......or do a slice down the centerline on eveything else and save some wall space.  Got to wonder who has two starboard halves.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Monday, December 28, 2015 8:54 AM
It appears from the picture that there are two port side hull halves. Is that the problem?

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, December 28, 2015 8:44 AM

Heller blocks and deadeyes are not that bad, and in that scale most can be cleaned up and painted well, so I think using the kit rigging parts will not hurt much.  A lot of the final appearance of a ship model is in the stand, so doing some work in this area can pay off.  I would do a wood base. If you have no woodworking tools maybe a friend could help.  A brass nameplate with decal won't cost much and adds a lot.

For bronze I first spray a coat of copper, either from an airbrush or spray can.  I then put on a very thin, semi-transparent coat of gloss medium or dark brown, either with an airbrush or dry brush.  On civil ships I sometimes add a little green patina, but warships usually had enough manpower to keep their guns and metal fittings in pretty good shape, so I would not add patina.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by kpnuts on Monday, December 28, 2015 5:36 AM

Can anyone workout my first problem(It's a biggie, wont be able to go far with this at the moment )
You would think I would have learnt with heller by now (check everything, then check it again.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Sunday, December 27, 2015 8:55 AM

Yay!  I'm happy to hear someone else will be building this kit at the same time as me :)

Looking forward to seeing your progress...

Dave

 

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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
HeLLeR 1/100 1700 ship of the line
Posted by kpnuts on Sunday, December 27, 2015 5:53 AM

Hi all i received this infamous kit as a present from my missus (note from the title I will only be correcting those errors my megre skills and even megerer knowledge will allow) that said as I'm building just a generic ship of the line it will end up being exactly right.

I have today ordered some gold leaf for this kit as it worked so well on the La Reale and the Royal Sovriegn, I have some copper leaf and brass leaf, wish I could find some bronze leaf for the canons (does anyone know how I could colour brass leaf to look like bronze).

I won't bother posting the box or sprue shots as they have been done elsewhere, looking at all the sprues is a bit daunting.

I know everyone will be saying get good am blocks and tackle also bin the thread and get some proper stuff, but, the missus has said keep the costs down, also I feel why spend more on am stuff than the kit cost, so will be investing in bees wax and apart from the gold leaf all else will be oob (apart from maybe some scratch building.

Will be starting soon so watch this space.

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