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Medium and technique often used to create water or sea acrylic "cubes" which have no borders/framing

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Saturday, January 30, 2016 1:03 PM

Saw a photo of this in FSM a few months back. Built by Marc Millis. Read that he layered clear resin tinted blue.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Saturday, January 30, 2016 12:38 PM

What Don said ... and don't ask me how I know that. There is an amazing photo spread of just this technique over on Armorama of what I think you want to achieve: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=174774#1493459

I plan to use a tall clear plastic display case (IMEX No. 2531) for my 1/700 Gato sub and Japanese subchaser diorama.

What has yet to be resolved is how to tint the plastic to look like the ocean. I'm thinking a wash of Tamiya clear blue since I've had no luck finding the colored self-adhesive transparency sheets that others have used.


 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, January 30, 2016 12:22 PM

I'm trying to politely say that this doesn't really work. Unless the subject is tiny. There's a good one of a Sherman tank sunk off of a pacific beach. But there, the tank is 1/72, and the turret top is at about water level.

So the whole thing is maybe 4x4x6, and mostly model not gel.

Any bubbles between layers will ruin it. There would be multiple layers per inch, resulting in dozens of layers. The chances of getting ALL of those right are next to nil.

It gets expensive too. And if it gets muffed, both the expensive resin AND the model go in the can.

Much better to suspend, or mount the model in a clear plastic box, and paint the back black or dark blue or other effect. Make a top with color and waves.

The last thing. The calculated crush depth of a U boat is about three times it's length. So set the thing relatively near the surface.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 30, 2016 9:44 AM

One must build up the layers of resin slowly, when embedding styrene in it.  Both epoxy and polyester heat up considerably when curing, and too thick of a layer will exceed the melting temp of styrene.  When doing epoxy casting mixed in paper cups I have had the cups begin to char and burn from unused resin in the cup!

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Friday, January 29, 2016 7:47 PM

I think, based on pictures of this I've seen on the web, that everyone uses a clear plastic cube and builds the layers of resin up inside it - there isn't a freestanding cube of resin.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, January 29, 2016 12:11 AM

I've never seen that bigger than about 4" each side.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2014
Medium and technique often used to create water or sea acrylic "cubes" which have no borders/framing
Posted by Iowahawkeye on Thursday, January 28, 2016 11:04 PM

Say,any one know what modelers use to create those cool clear acrylic or clear resin water dioramas which present the model within what I will describe as a transparent cube of gel? Often the dio focuses on a submerged ship or sunken military artfact which is encased in the acrylic medium.  What I need to know is how they make the acrylic or clear large resin cube or square; in other words, assuming they pour several layers of gel over a long period, what do they use as a removable, readily releasable form? Do they use glass forms?  If so, how do they keep the sides from sticking to the gel? Aluminum foil? Waxed paper? Saran Wrap?  Thanks, guys!  Robert

 

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