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Ship Weathering

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  • Member since
    December 2015
Ship Weathering
Posted by Rangatron on Monday, March 28, 2016 10:13 PM

Hi

What are the best subtle weathering techniques when weathering a model ship?  I only like light weathering otherwise it may ruin a model, I dont like to go overboard with it

Thanks

Tamiya please produce these models: TOG II*, Bob Semple Tank, Renault FT-17, Black Prince, 1/350 HMS Vanguard and more British stuff! If anyone works Tamiya or can pass this on, please do so! 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tempe AZ
Posted by docidle on Monday, March 28, 2016 11:46 PM

I'm probably the LAST person you would want advise from on "subtle" weathering....... I am surprised that I actaually can spell subtle. And I am assuming that this is for your Prince of Wales kit?

Anyway, I would recommend using acrylics on the main painting portion and then using enamel washes for your weathering.

Steve

       

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 9:01 AM

docidle

Anyway, I would recommend using acrylics on the main painting portion and then using enamel washes for your weathering.

Steve

 

Steve can you elaborate on why you suggest "enamel" washes as opposed to acrylic or oils?

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 9:20 AM

I frequently mix up a batch of "rust" wash, and dribble down a line from the hawse holes and other openings in side of hull.  This can be very subtle for navy ships.  Civil ships can stand a lot more weathering- some look pretty sorry.  I also use the wash on the anchor chains.

Getting a good patina on props is attractive. In spite of what kits call for, the props on large ships are NOT brass!  They should be bronze.  I paint them copper color, then a thin translucent coat of brown.  Then I apply a green/gray wash.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 3:40 PM
Amen on the BRONZE props! EJ

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 3:45 PM

I do something different .I have mixed up a batch of what I choose to call " Antique Bronze ' Usung a dab of " Run-N-Buff " for a go by .

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Wednesday, March 30, 2016 4:05 PM
Tamiya X-33 bronze is a darker, copperish, reddish metallic. Vallejo bronze metallic 70.998 is more a darkish brassish color. With a wash of thinned Tamiya over the Vallejo, it kinda looks like the screws on the ESSEX did when she was in drydock in 1961/2. EJ

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Monday, April 4, 2016 11:47 AM

Hokey
docidle

Anyway, I would recommend using acrylics on the main painting portion and then using enamel washes for your weathering.

Steve

Steve can you elaborate on why you suggest "enamel" washes as opposed to acrylic or oils?

Anyone care to offer thoughts on why enamel for washes?

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, April 5, 2016 9:19 AM

Hokey

 

 
Hokey
docidle

Anyway, I would recommend using acrylics on the main painting portion and then using enamel washes for your weathering.

Steve

Steve can you elaborate on why you suggest "enamel" washes as opposed to acrylic or oils?

 

 

Anyone care to offer thoughts on why enamel for washes?

 

Because I have them, and the thinner, on my bench and don't have to go somewhere to buy something else.  I use enamels for my regular paints and have a good selection of colors on hand.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, April 5, 2016 9:43 AM

Generally, enamels and oils will dry slower than acrylics and you have more time to work with it to get the effect you are working towards.

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