My Revell 1/196 USS Constitution Build

Nice job so far! I do have one suggestion that would improve your model. If you look at the boat closely, you will see two prominent mold-release marks that should be either sanded down or drilled out and filled in with either plastic rod or putty. one of the marks can be seen on the oar, and one on aft part of the boat's insert. It would improve you model immensely!

I hope to see more soon!

Bill Morrison

Hey guys I need help! I've gotten to the point where I'll be doing the rigging next. I plan on making my own ratlines but was hopping someone could tell me the size thread I should use. I found some thread on syrenmodelshipcompany.com but I don't know what I should use. 

Nice place to buy thread! You are on to the right path.

At your scale, which is at the smaller end of ship models that can be rigged in any detail; the three smaller sizes equal 1 1/2", 2 1/4" and 3 1/2". The larger sizes are really for larger scales.

One really great thing about this company is that they ship REALLY fast, like you'll get the thread tomorrow.

So I'd order one each of the three sizes in black.

In my opinion the biggest effect to achieve in smaller scales is to just get the differences showing. My guess would be that the  3 1/2" stuff would look good for the fore stays, all the ones running fore and aft down the centerline, and maybe the back stays, the last couple down from each mast to either side. The middle size for the shrouds ( the verticals that the ratlines attach to, and the smallest for the ratlines. You'll be bound to run out of something, but as I say from experience, more arrives quickly.

And I seriously counsel NOT even thinking about making your own deadeye and lanyard assemblies at the scale. Use the kit ones, clean them up a little and paint them carefully.

Thank ks for the quick reply! So from what I understood from your post I should get the last three starting at the .45mm? Sorry if I misunderstood.

Yes, the .20, .30 and .45 mm.

For the running rigging, you'll primarily be using the .20 mm. I have the new brown color and I think it looks really good.

Thank you so much! Ordering now!

I'd suggest, if that boat isn't glued down already: try painting the six recessed areas of the deck between the boat beams black. That's supposed to be open, although on this model you would then see down to the bilges!

Nice work so far. I've always wondered what time frame does the bow structure on this model represent. Did the ship look like that sometime in the past or is it just shortcuts from Revell because of the small scale?

I'm kinda interested in building this model sometime, but the bow shape puts me off.

I'm basing it after the painting on the front of the box. The was outline in that gold although all the reference pictures are in white, like the Connie right now. 

So my rope from syren should be here today or Monday, how do y'all recommend I tie off the ratlines to the mast? If possible, if anyone has pictures showing how they tied off that would help so much!

Start at the front on one side.

Seize or tie the shroud around the top deadeye. More on that can be described if needed. Go up to the top and through the "lubber" hole, assuming the model has them. Go around the mast, ideally only the lower mast if that's possible, from the front. Around the back and down again on the SAME side. Tie off at the next deadeye back. Put a couple of hitches around both runs of the shroud to bundle them together, as tight up against the mast as you can.

Repeat process on the other side of the ship, stacking on top of the one before. Back and  forth. If there's an odd number,  do the last up one side and down the other. You have  pretty good sized stack around the base of the top mast, right? That's how the real thing worked.

Some of the Revell ships have the three or four masts all cast as one piece. I think that's the deal here. If so just go around both.

Tying ratlines next.

If you haven't painted and installed the masts yet, a suggestion.

Often those kits had a pair of rings cast into the mast, where the yard sort of snapped on. I take those off. For one thing, they represent the yards positioned raised, usually.

Another, more important. At this point you should get your ship securely mounted to a base. You'll be flipping it this way and tat way and need a way to clamp it down.

What do you mean by lubber holes? I have a picture here of one of the mast with platform sitting in the position it would be. it has not been glue on yet. 

The lubber's hole is the big, square hole in the top (the big platform). An inexperienced seaman might sneak into the top via the lubber's hole, so he wouldn't have to hang upside down from the futtock shrouds.

If you want to learn the basic terminology of rigging, pick up a copy of this excellent, low-priced book: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MSB110 . Learn everything in that book and you'll be well on your way to having a nautical vocabulary, which will make other people think you're weird.

Model Expo is having a sale at the moment - though only folks on the company's e-mail list know about it. Type FACTORY in the box that says "Offer Code" at the top of the page and you'll get a discount of 55 percent.

Good luck.

Good pic. 

Its the hole in the top around the mast. The story is that a lubber would climb all the way up the shroud and squeeze thru he hole, a real sailor would hang backwards and go up over the outside of the top.

[quote user="rdiaz"]

Nice work so far. I've always wondered what time frame does the bow structure on this model represent. Did the ship look like that sometime in the past or is it just shortcuts from Revell because of the small scale?

I think (I'm not sure) Revell based that kit on the drawings the Navy published after the major restoration of the 1920s - with one exception. The model has a pretty nice reproduction of the notorious Andrew Jackson figured from the 1830.

Logged in on your link. I have had an account for quite a while, but never recall seeing any specials codes before. I wound up ordering a wood kit and the rigging book. To get the book at the sale price, I had to order it from your link. Adding the FACTORY in the box chaged nothing. I then ordered the model kit and the book, using the FACTORY in the box and the result was the kit was discounted from 69.00 to 29.99, but the book was priced at 14.99 instead of 12.99. I don't understand how all that works, but then technology escapes me.

EJ

Last post I mentioned how I didn't understand how my order was entered.

Well, it came today from ModelExpo. The English pinnace kit in the catalog was $69.99 and the book Jackstay was $14.99.

I was billed $13.49 for the kit and $6.75 for the book, $29.23 total including shipping!

I still don't know how it works, but WHAT A DEAL!

EJ

Does anyon still post on this?  I haven't seen any for a while.  Are we all daed?  SDid FSM shut it down?   I need lots of help.[quote user="jtilley"]

rdiaz

Nice work so far. I've always wondered what time frame does the bow structure on this model represent. Did the ship look like that sometime in the past or is it just shortcuts from Revell because of the small scale?

 

I think (I'm not sure) Revell based that kit on the drawings the Navy published after the major restoration of the 1920s - with one exception. The model has a pretty nice reproduction of the notorious Andrew Jackson figured from the 1830.

I can't remember whether Revell got the rest of the bow area right for that period. Somewhere n the web there's at least one 1830s-vintage photo of her with the Jackson figurehead.

 

 

rdiaz

Nice work so far. I've always wondered what time frame does the bow structure on this model represent. Did the ship look like that sometime in the past or is it just shortcuts from Revell because of the small scale?

 

I think (I'm not sure) Revell based that kit on the drawings the Navy published after the major restoration of the 1920s - with one exception. The model has a pretty nice reproduction of the notorious Andrew Jackson figured from the 1830.

I can't remember whether Revell got the rest of the bow area right for that period. Somewhere n the web there's at least one 1830s-vintage photo of her with the Jackson figurehead.