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Hey everyone, finally finished my USS Constitution from Revell and I'll load those pictures up but now I am starting my next project, the HMS Victory! I decided on the Airfix rather than the Revell because I wanted a more detailed figurehead. Only downside is i will have to model the ship with gunports closed because I don't like the way they're modeled in (plus side is not a lot of painting cannons). So I've painted the deck so far and I want to give it a more wood look to it. I don't have an airbrush set so I can't do it that way. I was hoping to get yalls opinion on using oil washes? The deck is already painted then sprayed with dullcote, how do I go about using the oil?
I strongly recommend looking into David_K's thread about his work on Le Soleil Royal. He uses oil washes to create stunning wood effects. He describes doing so in detail. Check it out!
Bill Morrison
Ditto, and I usualyy put on a sealer thats impervious to oil paint and its thinner, like clear acrylic.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Will testor's dulcote work as a sealer? And I'm searching for it right now warship guy! I just want better looking wooden decks.
AV8R1992 I was hoping to get yalls opinion on using oil washes? The deck is already painted then sprayed with dullcote, how do I go about using the oil?
I was hoping to get yalls opinion on using oil washes? The deck is already painted then sprayed with dullcote, how do I go about using the oil?
Future is a good one. Its brushable and glossy. I use Turpenoid, an odorless synthetic turpentine. I bought one of those cheap $ 12.00 sets of oil paints with twelve colors, lasts forever. Get a little turps in a paper cup, say 1/8" deep, then dab a little black, like a rice kernel, on your brush and mix it in. Brush on the deck, let it sit a minute or so and wipe it off. It's really easy to correct if you don't like what you see.
Thanks for that, I'll be going to the art store to get that but I can use that fine even though I already applied dullcote?
I have a question. There has been some question concerning the accuracy of the bow on Airfix's Victory. Can someone please speak to that issue as well?
Thanks!
Bill
well, it's been a long time since I've seen the kit, but iirc, the head rails were (for me) the biggest problem- they were too straight for me and not well done. Hackney recommended replacing them in his book.
Also IIRC jtilley also pointed out the gap between the figurehead and bowsprit is too large, which I agree with completely, but I think it is due to the angle of the bowsprit being too steep.
Also, the ports for the sick bay on the bow (the ones just below the heads) are not simmetrical port/starboard, one is lower than the other.
Thanks! If that is it, these should be easy fixes to accomplish.
No problem, I had a closer look at the sick bay port covers online and the starbord ones are positioned too high, the port ones are okay, if that help. Also, IIRC the Airfix kit was the same scale as the profile drawing in Longridge's book on Victory, so this could also be used to check the shape of the bow.
Cheers,
John.
I just checked my own Airfix kits. I have two, one molded in black plastic, the other in a light brown. Interestingly, the brown kit had the issue with the misaligned sickbay windows, The black kit did not. I wonder if the problem was corrected in later molds.
That's interesting, and you're right, they must have corrected it at some point. The one I built as a child had it and it was in black, so it must just be the most recent release that has the correction.
The bow on the Airfix kit is wrong, and it's not just the bowsprit angle. The knee of the head is too short and as a result the head rails do not have the pronounced curve they should. The 1/100 Heller kit also suffers from a similar issue, though less noticeable. The 1/180 Airfix seems to be a nice kit nevertheless.
I feel like every kit is gonna have their quirks but like you said, it seems like a really good kit. I'm really enjoying the build right now! Just cant go ahead to far because when I opened the box I had two port sides of the hull instead of a port and starboard haha just waiting on the replacement part.
I have a quick question. I went to my local hobby store and saw that they had testors creatfx enamel stains, I die died to get this and try it out so that way my decks would look better. I've applied the stains and am really happy on how it turned out! My question is, should I apply this stain over the rest of the ship when I get there? I'm only worried that it'll make thinags too dark.
I was under the impression the hull was all painted or coppered- I would not use a stain on it.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
The hull is painted with black and that tanish color with a copper hull. I used the stains on the deck and it makes it look more realistic in my opinion. So should I use an oil wash on the outside to add detail?
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