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HMCS SNOWBERRY as USS SAUCY build by Kyle Lord

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  • Member since
    December, 2005
HMCS SNOWBERRY as USS SAUCY build by Kyle Lord
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Monday, September 26, 2016 10:51 AM

Hi Guys,

 

Kyle Lord of East Providence, RI picked up my SNOWBERRY from ROG (1:144) and my G-5 from Merit (1:35) yesterday.  He and his girlfriend, Amanda are very nice people.

 

He has already started the HMCS SNOWBERRY as the USS SAUCY.  The first thing he did was to wash the kit to get the residue of the releasing agent from the molding process off.  Secondly, he put the two halves of the hull together.  I picked up some brass light finnels for him to use as pedestals (on both kits).  He mentioned in an email that he is going to be using some "generic" PE railings to replace the kit's thickish railings.  I agreed with him on that.

 

Here are some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

He dryfitted the decks too:

 

 

Tim

  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Monday, September 26, 2016 8:35 PM

I noticed a bit of Putty used. Is there any major problems with the Hull..??

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 9:22 AM
He mentioned that he had issues lining up the seams. Plus, the putty was/is for when he attaches the finnels/pedestals...
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 3:11 PM
Here are more photos of the build, putting the depth charges together, putting the CSA generators together, doing something to the prop, and painting the decks. Be advised, Kyle says the seams on the hull are difficult to line up and there is flash as well as seams on the depth charges, but other than that, he likes it. Oh, yeah, he did say there is warpage where the decks and hull meet. be advised, Kyle says the seams on the hull are difficult to line up and there is flash as well as seams on the depth charges, but other than that, he likes it. Oh, yeah, he did say there is warpage where the decks and hull meet.            Tim
  • Member since
    May, 2016
Posted by Kyle Lord on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 4:02 PM

I held the prop with a clamp so I could clean flashing and hit it with a coat of primer.

It looks like many of the smaller parts have flashing but overall is still a nice kit.

It looks like my build thread has posted, if it's alright I'd like to continue with this one.

More to come soon

Kyle

  • Member since
    October, 2015
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by SgtDannySgt on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 7:45 PM

Thanks for these. I am thinking of getting either this kit or the 1/72 scale, still debatting. One thing, what kind of finnels are best for these models? I am looking to use some as a pedestal for a HMCS Huron model I just finished to attach to my first homemade display case. And how are they attached to the model? To the display base? Drilling holes? Thanks mate

Danny

Building 1/144 H.M.C.S. Snowberry by Revell of Germany

  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 9:13 PM
Just go to your local hardware store or light store and look through what they have for finnels, sir. See what catches your eye. For my SAUCY, I chose very simple "tall" finnels. For my G-5 - I chose fat and squat ones. As for attachment? You need to drill (carefully) through the keel and hull and reinforce where you drill.
  • Member since
    May, 2016
Posted by Revenant on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 9:20 PM

Interesting thread.  

One observation: The mouldings seem a bit "rougher" than RoG's earlier 1/144 U-boat and 1/72 S-Boat kits...

  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 10:03 PM

Revenant

Interesting thread.  

One observation: The mouldings seem a bit "rougher" than RoG's earlier 1/144 U-boat and 1/72 S-Boat kits...

 

I believe this was a repopped older offering.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    November, 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 10:20 PM

The term, should you wish to google first is "finial."  These can be found among lamp parts.

For attachment, various methods can be used.

I have used stubby Molly bolts, wher you need a hole that admits the entire fastener, then tightening the fastener expands the sides of the bolt which then clamps down on the hulll.  This is very suefull if you find you need to mount and unmount the hull.  Mollys are also handy if you want to wire lighting into a kit, as you can use one for the positive and the other for the negative.

Alternately, a bolt like a hex head can be epoxied to the inside  of the hull, passing through a drilled hole.  If you have not decided ona finial (or a final display height) get longer bolts than you need so you can trim them as needed.

Another way may modelers use is to epoxy a stout piece of hard wood (nothing soft like balsa) inside the hulll.  A pilot hole is drilled from the outside of he hull and into the block, with a final diameter hole shallowly boerd only though the hull itself.  A wood screw is then passed through the base, the finials, and then into the block within the hull. 

The downside to wood screws is that they can't be backed out too often, and you have to be careful not to strip the hole, too (a possibility if you use too large a pilot hole).

The most exotic way to mount a kit is one I've not yet tried.  You glue rare-earth magnets inside the hull, and use steel bolts cut flush with the finials to attach the kit.  Rare-earth magnets have a powerful pull at close range, and thus have significant gripping power.

  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Wednesday, September 28, 2016 10:05 AM
Kyle sent me an update today, and here it is. These are his words: Decks are masked and ready for weathering deck blue which will be a mix of dark gray and field blue at half each. Bottom of the hull has been sanded though I filled the low spot again as it wasn't quite right. Stern piece is glued in and was filled though not pictured. The upper surface was sprayed with Tamiya white with a small amount of light grey added. Prop has been primed and is waiting to be painted bronze.
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Thursday, September 29, 2016 10:58 AM
Good morning, guys … Kyle sent me a few updates today. I am really impressed with Kyle’s work. He’s doing a good job on this kit, even with its shortcomings. Frankly, I am amazed at his work and his progress … This is the gist of all of his emails and a ton of new photos: “Glued the strake. Parts on the hull, really not sure what they are and primed the bottom of the hull this morning. Going to do another coat of primer and will smooth out tonight. Here she is, the color is interesting from the top it shows gray, from a slight angle it's blue.”          Tim
  • Member since
    October, 2015
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by SgtDannySgt on Thursday, September 29, 2016 8:07 PM
Great and thanks for the explanations. I'll be looking at finials for my future builds. Danny

Building 1/144 H.M.C.S. Snowberry by Revell of Germany

  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Friday, September 30, 2016 9:05 AM
No problem.
  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 30, 2016 10:17 AM

There are two types of finials.

One type is like a tube, and a long bolt can be inserted through. Those are easily usable. They tend to be sort of constant in section from one end to the other.

The other type has a blind threaded hole in each end. Those are hard to use without chucking them in a lathe and drilling them through. These are the ones that haves a more decorative look, like a chess pawn.

So when you are at the hardware store looking at the selection, think through how you will use it.

  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Friday, September 30, 2016 10:24 AM
Hi Guys. Kyle just sent me another update this morning. He’s moving right along … This is what he said, “…quick update. Bottom of the hull was given a mist of flat black and faired using a sanding stick. It will be smoothed using 600 grit and final primed. The stern piece has been faired including the seam that will show on the inside.”        Tim
  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, September 30, 2016 11:39 AM

Hi " G" ;

     There is another " finial " exercise too . I use "Twisted " cast acrylic posts or cast " Bubble " posts and machine the threads from the bottom of the ship into the post .

  Then I do the same in the base wood .This way you have a good solid anchor that does not flex and the light catches the posts and draws the eye to the model .

    By countersinking the hole in the wood base allows a good snug fit for the bolts .Stainless bolts should be used . This way no moisture can discolor the posts .  T.B.

  • Member since
    October, 2015
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by SgtDannySgt on Friday, September 30, 2016 12:01 PM

Excellent thread everyone. Being fairly new to the model scene, I am learning everyday. I have only built two warships so far, the HMCS Huron and the HMS Prince of Wales. Since both are completed, I will be looking at finials that I can screw into the hull and in the wooden base of the display case which I also build from scratch. Those too are a hobby in themselves!! The HMCS Snowberry will happen, I just need to catch up on the kits I have on-deck and get more experience under my belt.

Danny

Building 1/144 H.M.C.S. Snowberry by Revell of Germany

  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Sunday, October 02, 2016 2:59 PM
Kyle sent me an update and this what he said, “I temporarily put the deck on to see the whole color scheme. Couldn't help but do a mockup. I assembled two little gun mounts, they will be painted white and the guns dark gunmetal before assembly. Not pictured but I have an assortment of small parts ready to be primer. Also not pictured but the waterline has been marked and taped and will be sprayed when the weather improves. Lastly I drilled holes in the bottom, fabricated hardwood blocks and epoxied them in place. These will be drilled, tapped 10-24, then hardened with super glue. The finials will be chucked in the lathe, turned down and be threaded 10-24. The finials will thread into the hull, then bolts will pass through the base into the finials.” Here are some photos:           Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Monday, October 03, 2016 11:05 AM
Kyle sent me an update this morning – he’s putting together the sub-assemblies of the kit. He also glued part of the decking to the hull … Yesterday, he attached some pieces of hard wood to the interior of the hull where the pedestals will be screwed into … Here are some photos of the progress …
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Tuesday, October 04, 2016 4:03 PM
Kyle sent me an update, he has painted the hull’s bottom and he will attach the rest of the deck(s) tonight. I am impressed with the progress and with his work. Here are photos:        Tim
  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 1:27 AM

Very impressive indeed. I have always wanted the 72nd scale Kit so might have to settle for this one instead.....Cheers mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 11:07 AM
Kyle sent me an update today. This is what he said: “Front deck went on last night, I had to tack glue the front with super glue then pull in the sides with tape and liquid glue to adhere. The racks were a bit of a pain too, they design the top and bottom to fit into notches but there was no way they'd fit so I finagled a little. They will require white touch ups but I wanted to show you the progress.” Here are some photos:     Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Thursday, October 06, 2016 11:17 AM
Kyle sent me another update, here’s what he said, “After unmasking the front deck there were still a few areas that didn't adhere well so I wicked in Tamiya thin and retaped. The rear upper deck went on and the smoke stack was sprayed base white and masked for the upper blue then the deck blue. I'll have to touch up some edges with white but when I get the majority of the upper surfaces on I'm going to spray from the waterline up with a coat of flat clear.” Here are some photos:      Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Friday, October 07, 2016 6:34 PM
Kyle just sent me an update. He has started to mount the depth charges along the sides and he has started on making its mast. He also had a placard made for the base. Here are some photos:    Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Sunday, October 09, 2016 10:51 AM
Over the weekend, Kyle sent me two updates with photos of what he has done. I am, quite simply, blown away. I primed a bunch of the larger parts that require white then weathering blue to start painting tomorrow. I also made a 4" gun brass barrel. The muzzle was drilled with a 1/32" drill, the closest bit I had to it's scale size. The compound was set to a taper of approximately 1.5 degrees and the brass was turned down to match the plastic barrel. The kits barrel was terribly oval so I averaged the diameter. Then used a grooving tool to turn down the post that will hold the barrel into the kits breech. Quick update the barrel was grafted in, and the shield went onto the gun. I painted and put what looks like a compass to me and the two cleats. The K-guns went on permanently as well as their depth charges. Here are some photos:          Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Monday, October 10, 2016 3:17 PM
Kyle just sent me another update. This is what he said, “quick update of yesterday's work. I painted a bunch of platforms, the first platform I hand drilled all the holes with a pin vise to clean them up. 128 in total. I glued on the posts and platform for the 4-in. gun and the depth charge racks are permanently on. The platform for the 4" gun was based in white, masked and spraying blue and the additional ammo was brush painted. The shroud was radiused over to match Saucy's. Lastly, the rudder mounting was sloppy so I used a 3/32" brass tube that slips over the rudder post, and drilled the hull to 3/32". It's a snug fit and will be removed and painted red.” Here are some photos:      Tim
  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 8:44 AM

It is a lovely clean Build of her. I also love the Detail Kyle is adding along the way.....Cheers mark 

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 6:33 PM
Kyle sent me another update today, and this is what he said: A little more progress, painted some small parts white and attached them. The Pom Pom and 4" gun mounts are painted. The platform is just resting on the deck but the pedestal is attached. Here are some photos:     Tim
  • Member since
    December, 2005
Posted by PTConsultingNHR on Friday, October 14, 2016 3:44 PM
Kyle sent me an update this morning. Here’s what he said, “Got some more parts on last night. I'm preparing more parts now for primer and paint. I'm closing in on being done with the aft section.” Here are some photos:   Tim

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