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1/72 scale USS Ward at time of Pearl Harbor

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  • Member since
    March, 2017
1/72 scale USS Ward at time of Pearl Harbor
Posted by Jonesjp on Friday, April 21, 2017 12:18 PM

the hull is vacuform as are the funnels   Everything else is pretty much scratch.  A few questions. I need to cast some resin parts. What's best?  Second. Conflicting references on rear main gun position on main deck or on upper deck. Anyone know for sure?

 

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Friday, April 21, 2017 12:55 PM

Can't yet find a date---I will keep looking---but virtually all the four  stackers in service had the number 4 gun moved from the original very wet position on the stern to the aft deckhouse roof as soon after WW1 as possible. For hulls like the Ward that went into the reserve fleet, this was still being done in the mid-to-late '30s as 'war clouds gathered.' It certainly would have been done before she went back into service.

99% sure I've got a photo somewhere, will post it when I find it.

Cheers

Greg

 

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."

 

"

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, April 21, 2017 2:50 PM

FWIW there's a painting of her with the No. 3 firing at the sub. The view is from the stern and the No. 4 is on the deckhouse roof.

 

See Navsource.

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, April 21, 2017 7:44 PM

You might have seen that Shapeways sells a very nice 4" 50 submarine gun. I don't know the difference from a DD deck gun.

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by Jonesjp on Saturday, April 22, 2017 2:38 AM

Thanks, I have acquired the guns already, though not from Shapeways. I was looking at their stuff. Still need portholes, doors, .30 cal MG and stands so I may yet pay them a visit

 

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by Jonesjp on Saturday, April 22, 2017 2:40 AM

Thanks!  I was hoping that was the case. I will check out that painting

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 22, 2017 9:17 AM

Resin casting in RTV molds works very well, if you give some thought to mold design.  When you pour the resin into the mold, it needs to displace the air, else you get bubbles in the casting.  Two important points.  There needs to be vent tubes coming out of each local high point in the mold to allow the air to escape.  Second, it is best to design in a J-shaped pour sprue. If your sprue entry is at the top of the mold, resin entering the cavity competes with the air coming out.  The J-sprue lets resin enter the bottom of the cavity, allowing the incoming resin to easily push the air out the vent tubes at the top.

I notice Hobby Lobby now carries Aluminalite resin and stuff.  I ordinarily use RTV and resin from Micro Mark, but it is nice to have a local source for those last minute emergencies.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, April 24, 2017 9:55 AM

Jonesjp

the hull is vacuform as are the funnels   Everything else is pretty much scratch.  A few questions. I need to cast some resin parts. What's best?  Second. Conflicting references on rear main gun position on main deck or on upper deck. Anyone know for sure?

 

I like Smooth-On  

https://www.smooth-on.com/

Check the site for videos & descriptions on their various products.   They also have how-to instructions for molding & casting.  

I use their OOMOO-30 RTV and Smooth-Cast plastic.    The nice thing about these products is that they are a 1:1 mix (+/- 10%).   You don't need the precision of a 10:1 mix needed for some other products.  Smooth-Cast gives a smooth finish with few bubbles.    I have found that Alumilite produces a coarser finish.   It is useable but takes a bit more practice.

See to the Distributor list.  If there is one nearby you can purchase over the counter.   I have found that the counter help are technically savvy and can give you good recommendations on materials & methods.

A couple of references:

Al Adcock "US Flush Deck Destroyers Inaction" Squadron. has a lot of photos & line drawings of 4-pipers, all versions.   Cover art is the Ward engaging the Japanese sub at Pearl Harbor.  

Glen Arnold "Warship Perspectives: Flush Deck Destroyers in World War Two" WR Press.  has more photos & drawings, all versions.   There are a lot more detail photos.   There is a good fold-out set of plans for HMS Montgomery.   They will get you deckhouse configurations.

Lott & Sumrall "USS Ward Fires First Shot WWII"  Impressions, Inc.  For the Ward at Pearl Harbor,  this book is mostly drawings with several photos which are seen elsewhere (Navsource).   There are photos of the guncrew and the first-shot gun.   There is more info on the Ward as an APD.    (Interesting factoid:  LT Outerbridge (later Admiral) CO of the Ward at Pearl Harbor was,  in 1944, the CO of the O'Brien and ordered the sinking of the APD Ward after she was mortally damaged during the Leyte campaign.)

Delgado et.al.  "The Lost Submarines of Pearl Harbor".  TAMU Press.  One chapter on the Ward's action at Pearl Harbor.   No additional unique photos or drawings.   The cover art is the Freeman painting of the attack which is mentioned as being seen on Navsource.  

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, April 24, 2017 11:24 AM

Your model is 52" long, correct?

 

That's quite something. I would love to see any photos.

 

Bill

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by Jonesjp on Monday, April 24, 2017 1:22 PM

I have "Ward Fires First Shot"  yes the Ward was sunk by her old Capt on interestingly Dec 7, 1944 3 years to the day after she fired the shot at Pearl. I'm assuming she had black anti fouling paint below the water line

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by Jonesjp on Monday, April 24, 2017 1:51 PM

I'll try and post some shots of the Ward next week. Hopefully by then I'll have the ships boats on and the hull painted, at least the first coat. I'm old school hand painting no airbrush. Yes it IS big. Well over 4' long with two very tall masts

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, April 24, 2017 2:16 PM

Jonesjp

I have "Ward Fires First Shot"  yes the Ward was sunk by her old Capt on interestingly Dec 7, 1944 3 years to the day after she fired the shot at Pearl. I'm assuming she had black anti fouling paint below the water line

 

 
Since you have that book,  I assume that you're refering to the color plate in the center.   I don't have 100% confirmation,  but the black shown is most likely the boot topping.   This was a black band around the hull at the waterline to hide the oily harbor scum.    The rest of the underhull would be in hull red.  
 
The blue is known as 5S or Sea Blue.   There is no Fed Std equivalence, as it went obsolete before the standard was established.    In acrylics it is close to Vallejo Game Color 72048.   It is also available in the AK Interactive British & USN basic naval color set.   In enamels, 5S is available out of the tin in the Colourcoat line of paints from Soverign Models in the UK  (formerly White Ensign Models).   At this time the steel decks were still in Standard Navy Deck Gray #20,  the interwar color.
  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Monday, April 24, 2017 4:33 PM

this is a quick way of casting, about an hour .

Blue Stuff/Oyumaru - How to cheaply cast miniatures or plastic models - new version

plasmo's u-tube is the one

  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Tampa, Florida, USA
Posted by steves on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 10:00 AM

You may find these websites of interest:

http://www.fineartmodels.com/Flush_Deck_Ward.html#7

http://www.tehnoart.eu/uss-ward-kit.html

Fine Art Models offers a 1/96 built model ofthe Ward.  Tehnoart is a Latvian company that produces Fine Art's ship models and also released a limited edition kit version in 2014.  There are some photos on both sites of the completed model and photos of the kit in progress at Tehnoart. 

I have one of the kits, it is very detailed and, from what research I have been able to do, it is very accurate.  One detail most kits and drawings of the Ward on 12/7/41 get wrong is the placement of the yardarm on the foremast.  It should be at the very top of the mast like the letter "T",  which is confirmed by a photo of the Ward at Lahaina taken in October, 1941. 

I don't know to what degree of detail you are planning to build, but 1/72 is very large scale for a ship model.  If you are interested PM me and I can provide some accurate plans and details of the boat skids, davits, 4" ammunition racks and depth charge racks.  These are pretty complex items that are not typically represented accurately or completely on smaller scale models or drawings.

There is also a 1/72 plastic kit of the "Type A Target" (midget submarine) that would go well with your Ward when completed:

http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/ships/Fine-Mold-s-1-72-Type-A-Japanese-WWII-Mini-Submarine.php

 

 

 

Steve Sobieralski, Tampa Bay Ship Model Society

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 10:11 AM

Golly! $$$!

Thanks, Steve. 

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by Jonesjp on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 10:40 AM

Steve. 

I am very interested in any help you can send my way. My email is igoodboy@cox.net. I have the depth charges more or less. A few questions on those, I have two sets of wall mounted main gun ammo for the forward gun but no others. I have a huge collection of 1/72 WWII aircraft, almost 2,000. That's why the scale. Keep it in the family

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