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sharkbait Was there not a thread on build/paint of this model a year or two ago? Can't find it but it may help. Cheers Sharkbait
Was there not a thread on build/paint of this model a year or two ago? Can't find it but it may help.
Cheers
Sharkbait
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/169278.aspx
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Another method that I personally use is Acrylics for the base color and Artist Oils for the wood effect. An easy way to start is to use Model Masters Wood for your base color and Vandyke Brown for the grain color.
After your base color has cured, you can apply the oil paint straight from the tube, wait about an hour and then take an old cotton t-shirt and start wiping away the excess and blending at the same time. Another method for the oils is to thin it with Mineral Spirits and apply this onto the base coat.
I used to have pictures posted, but after the Photobucket debacle, I’ve had to transfer all my photos back onto the desktop. I haven’t had the mental insanity yet to transfer them again on to postimage.org. There was a great amount of fabulous WIPs that were lost when PB ransomed all of the photos on their site.
Steve
There is a great paint set by Vallejo called Old & New Wood Effects that also come with very clear step-by-step instructions for how to accomplish many types of effects. The serial number is Set 71.187.
Bill
I would add to all of the above that---unless you're talking about paneling on a salon bulkhead---most marine woods tend to be more grey in appearance than brown, particularly when weathered. Grey with a dry-brushing of brown or tan...or brown with a grey wash...will often look more 'real' than brown alone.
Good luck on your 'dragon'...and by all means, post photos!
Greg
George Lewis:
You have never been lost until you've been lost at Mach 3!
I don't know about the Vikings, but many ships in those days were oiled to help preserve the wood. Fish oil was popular, but I think they used others too. The general effect was to darken the wood once it had been baked in the sun awhile.
I have a friend that actually uses the oil-type wood stains. They look great! I have not been able to duplicate his finishes- I use enamels- wood colors and washes myself, but you could try experimenting with wood stains on scrap styrene, like sections of the sprue. Do not try stuff you are not experienced with on a good kit.
BTW, if you want to do a bit of work on the rigging, there are some great shots online of the rigging on good Viking replicas.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
That’s a great kit and a very accurate model of the Gokstad find.
I painted mine an overall dark brown like Floquil Railroad Tie.
Then I pulled out the grain with a thin black wash.
The boat itself is oak, but there are short duckboards laid in between the frames and they are pine. I washed them with Gull Gray for a little contrast.
Hello!
While I don't think I can help you with actual technique details, I'd say don't go for a wood that's too fresh - after a few weeks in salt water I'm sure the wood would already be pretty weathered, and I'm not sure they didn't use some kind of weatherproofing first (tar?). So I'd say some shading, but aim for a single colour dark scheme. Looking up wooden boats on the net could help you some, too!
Good luck with your boat and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
Hello, I just purchased the Revell viking ship kit after watching the Viking series on TV and I am very impressed with their boats.
I would like some suggestions from you experienced modelers about how to paint the hull and deck to make it look like real wood. I paint with Tamiya acrylics and do very little with oils or enamels.
Thanks in advance for the help.
George
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