SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Assembly

366 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: ohio I want to leave
Assembly
Posted by armor 2.0 on Thursday, May 03, 2018 1:42 PM

I' am atempting to assemble to assemble a1/350 titanic lve never assembly a ship this big. I like to paint stuff ahead in sub assembly I've been over the direction a thousand timessage thing to figure this out . I'e got myself totally mind screwed . Can anyone give some advice on how to go about this. It the minicraft deluxe kit.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by PFJN on Thursday, May 03, 2018 2:32 PM

Hi,

I have never built a Titanic kit, but I did see that there appears to be a series of videos on You Tube that appear to show someones build of that kit.  As such, if you go to You Tabe and search of the Minicraft Titanic kit you can hopefully pull up those videos that might give you a reasonable starting point on seeing how that builder approached their build.

Best of luck

Pat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlEuMwpAMcc

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, May 03, 2018 2:51 PM

I’ve only done a few ships, and no Titanic, (GASP!!!) but sub assemblies is the way to go. Break it down into small bites/steps and take your time. If an assembly step in the instructions seems long or complicated, break that down in your head to a logical sequence. Test fit all before committing glue.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July, 2008
  • From: Albany, NY
Posted by jeffpez on Thursday, May 03, 2018 3:27 PM

I've done the Titanic twice and indeed sub assemblies are the way to go but there are limitations. Much of the upper areas of the ship have windows with frames that must be painted and that's easiest done before assembly. First finish all the white parts and then start the frames which becomes tedious but would be impossible if everything was already attached to the decks. I would also suggest you avoid one thing I did which was to fill the window opening with Micro Kristal Klear thinking the resulting glass look would enhance the result. Wrong - you can't see that I did it. I know I did and still can't see it. This is a great model and you'll love the results if you take your time. Best of luck and enjoy.

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Thursday, May 03, 2018 4:36 PM

 Oh Boy !

 The Titanic is just a large group of sub-assemblies . Take all the parts indicated to be white and even if molded in white , Paint them . Otherwise they'll never look right .

  Carefully dry brush all the windows in a light mahogany brown . Testors Square bottle dark Brown is good for this , just add one or two drops of white to tone down the darkness , otherwise the brown will look black in that scale  , then assemble them .

  Do this throughout and you will be pleased with the result . The hull should be painted Semi Gloss black with a few drops of Semi - Gloss  White in it .

 The reason ? Simply , Scale effect . If you paint it Flat or Gloss Black it will actually look smaller because of all the darkness the Large Black hull creates . Plus it will show better against the Semi-Gloss white areas .

 There are some areas that are on the Hull upper edge that should be White .Paint them Light aircraft grey for a primer and the  Semi-Gloss White will show up fine and proper .

 When you get to the Red below the waterline . British crimson semi-Gloss is appropriate . Just make sure you don't paint the props Copper or Bronze or Gold . Take a few large drops ( eight ) of Gold in a medicine bottle cap . Add one large drop of Copper and two large drops of Bronze metallic or even Aluminum . Mix well and paint with an almost dry brush in swirls . That will approximate the polished metallic finish they  had before they got wet !

 I hope this helps . Tanker - Builder        P.S.The decks should be a very light Deck Tan . Humbrol makes  a good tin of this  , the stacks should be a very dark yellowish tan . Almost stained Dark Oak color . Mix four large drops of Deck Tan Testors and one drop of Light Yellow .  Don't forget to paint all the rail tops and bridge wings the Brown on the top edge ! . Good Luck .

 

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: ohio I want to leave
Posted by armor 2.0 on Thursday, May 03, 2018 4:36 PM

jeffpez

I've done the Titanic twice and indeed sub assemblies are the way to go but there are limitations. Much of the upper areas of the ship have windows with frames that must be painted and that's easiest done before assembly. First finish all the white parts and then start the frames which becomes tedious but would be impossible if everything was already attached to the decks. I would also suggest you avoid one thing I did which was to fill the window opening with Micro Kristal Klear thinking the resulting glass look would enhance the result. Wrong - you can't see that I did it. I know I did and still can't see it. This is a great model and you'll love the results if you take your time. Best of luck and enjoy.

 

jeffpez

I've done the Titanic twice and indeed sub assemblies are the way to go but there are limitations. Much of the upper areas of the ship have windows with frames that must be painted and that's easiest done before assembly. First finish all the white parts and then start the frames which becomes tedious but would be impossible if everything was already attached to the decks. I would also suggest you avoid one thing I did which was to fill the window opening with Micro Kristal Klear thinking the resulting glass look would enhance the result. Wrong - you can't see that I did it. I know I did and still can't see it. This is a great model and you'll love the results if you take your time. Best of luck and enjoy.

 

you Thank you for the reply I've got photo etch for the windows which I wish idleft it at Tom's model works it giving me a major headache.

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: ohio I want to leave
Posted by armor 2.0 on Thursday, May 03, 2018 5:02 PM

Tanker - Builder

 Oh Boy !

 The Titanic is just a large group of sub-assemblies . Take all the parts indicated to be white and even if molded in white , Paint them . Otherwise they'll never look right .

  Carefully dry brush all the windows in a light mahogany brown . Testors Square bottle dark Brown is good for this , just add one or two drops of white to tone down the darkness , otherwise the brown will look black in that scale  , then assemble them .

  Do this throughout and you will be pleased with the result . The hull should be painted Semi Gloss black with a few drops of Semi - Gloss  White in it .

 The reason ? Simply , Scale effect . If you paint it Flat or Gloss Black it will actually look smaller because of all the darkness the Large Black hull creates . Plus it will show better against the Semi-Gloss white areas .

 There are some areas that are on the Hull upper edge that should be White .Paint them Light aircraft grey for a primer and the  Semi-Gloss White will show up fine and proper .

 When you get to the Red below the waterline . British crimson semi-Gloss is appropriate . Just make sure you don't paint the props Copper or Bronze or Gold . Take a few large drops ( eight ) of Gold in a medicine bottle cap . Add one large drop of Copper and two large drops of Bronze metallic or even Aluminum . Mix well and paint with an almost dry brush in swirls . That will approximate the polished metallic finish they  had before they got wet !

 I hope this helps . Tanker - Builder        P.S.The decks should be a very light Deck Tan . Humbrol makes  a good tin of this  , the stacks should be a very dark yellowish tan . Almost stained Dark Oak color . Mix four large drops of Deck Tan Testors and one drop of Light Yellow .  Don't forget to paint all the rail tops and bridge wings the Brown on the top edge ! . Good Luck .

 

 

Thanks T.B. great information sure do appreciate ya!

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, May 04, 2018 7:32 AM

Why Shure ! 

 Tis' a pleasure to share with a fellow modeler ! Now the biggest thing I forgot to tell you Patience and a sharp X-Acto are going to be your best friends on this build . Don't get in a hurry especially near the finish .You'll be happy with the results . Again - Good luck 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS

FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.