Nuclear Icebreaker ARKTIKA 1/400 (COMPLETED - for now)

Hello!

Now that's a nice project! How big is taht baby going to be when done? The ship is really fascinating.

If you scan the instructions and post them, I think I could help you with the translation.

Your coin and stamp don't really fit together - I mean the coin commemorates 200 years of the Russian navy, and the stamp commemorates the arctic expedition on the 60th anniversary of the "great October", meaning the revolution, that meant to obliterate Russia and build something completely new - the Soviet Union.

That means if you do the old scheme, you could show the ship with the stamp, and the new scheme would go well with the coin.

So, anyway - good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

I like this kit. I could see building it too.

The ship is 486 feet long, so the model would be about 1.2 feet long.

What a cool subject! I had no idea a nuclear icebreaker had ever existed. One of the many reasons I like this forum, I always learn something new. I hope you do a WIP.

Thanks, Paweł,

Here is the color key given in the instructions:

The size of the model given is 18cm by 38cm. 

There are also some other Arktika collectibles I’d like to get: there’s a Soviet bronze medal, another older stamp, postcards, and some commemorative pins that were made.

The main idea is to create infographics as placards to show the story of the ship along with the collectibles around the model. I’d like to include diagrams of how an icebreaker breaks ice, and possible draw an illustration of the reactors in the ship. It’s an abstract idea, so we’ll see how it goes.

Hello!

Luckily for us the list of paints isn't very complicated. The numbers in the squares correspond with Gunze paints, so that could be a help for you, too. Going from top left to bottom right the colours are: green, red, yellow, orange, and in the right column: white, black, gold, silver and gun metal.

I've heard the "Arktika" ice breakers also take tourists onboard, so I'd suspect there could be a folder or two advertising this - that folder could also be something for your display.

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Hello Pavel !

 The Arktica type has been featured in some National Geographic episodes on T.V. Not on board though . She's usually in the distance or close by breaking the ice .She is fascinating .Now get this .If the U.S.had one like her she would probably be an Enlarged and strenghtened Eastwind type .

 Last thing I heard , is she usually does carry about ten or twelve pasengers too . 

Thank you again, Paweł. Looks like I have all the colors listed.

One thing about this set is that it has no decals - the things you’d expect to be decals (ship name, atom logo, and hammer and sicklel) are raised details.  Can any of you recommend how you would handle such detail? In the past I’ve just been very careful with a brush, or even a toothpick, but I need to be precise here so the words don’t look sloppy in the model.

I’m eager to get started. I am in the middle of building a P-40 Warhawk, but I’m putting it on hold. I built a Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler a couple months ago, and I had so much fun building it, and the result was so satisfying. There’s just something about model ships.

Go on U-tube and look at the video on how to make "decals, hand made for modelers" . Perhaps this might help.

Happy modeling.   Crackers  

crackers

Go on U-tube and look at the video on how to make "decals, hand made for modelers" . Perhaps this might help.

Happy modeling.   Crackers  

 

Also, there have been a number of threads on the decals forum about inkjet decals.  I picked up some great hints there.

Now you’re tempting me with these custom decals. Arktika could potentially be transformed into the same-class vessel Yamal, which you’ll agree, is quite distinctive:

Hello!

If I was in your place, I'd probably build the "Yamal" - you seem to have a soft spot for her! Don is always recommending printing the decals yourself, I usually say you're better off goint to the pros. Unfortunately I don't know any custom-decals company in the States, but if you find a good printing company they would give you very nice yellow and white prints, they even could print silver and gold should you ever need it. The biggest problem in any case is always drawing the pattern you neen on the computer. Once that's done, all other things are easy.

Now the sharkmouth could be printed with an ink-jet on white decal sheet, but the yellow ship name ant the "atom" logo could be tricky.

And I can't find it now, but I think I have read that you want to experiment with the coours a little - I only wanted to say that you should definitely do that.

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Glenn, I guess many of the things you would just do on the deck of a normal ship have to be done "indoors" when it's really cold. Plus, an icebreaker also serves as supply ship for polar bases and such.

Have a nice day

Paweł

GlennH

Looks fun. I never paid much attention to these ships nor realized the deck structure were so huge on them. I guess they have a crew way, way larger than I would have ever guess.

They had a crew of up to 150 people. Apparently they had all sorts of luxuries like a cinema, and even a swimming pool. These ships would break records for being out to sea so long that I guess that kind of entertainment would be a necessity.

Paweł, I do plan on experimenting a bit with the colors. As for the decals, I haven’t decided. The big challenge I see with Yamal, aside from the shark mouth, is its different radar arrays. I’m not sure how I could change it to look accurate. I do intend on including some PE handrails. 

As it stands now I did sand off these raised details, mainly because one printing of the word Arktika was kind of sloppy.

Darkhorse, do some decal research on your computer.  There are decals of shark's mouth for model aircraft. Get a decal that matches as close enough for your Russian icebreaker. Hope this helps.

Happy modeling     Crackers   

I’ll keep an eye out. 

This weekend I’ve glued, sanded and primed the hull. 

The set comes with a little pedestal, which is helpful.

You probably need a guinea pig to test the ice-scarred paint scheme.

Or not--still your choice.

Often ice-breakers wear their ice scars as a matter of pride, "war stripes" as it were.

GlennH

I never paid much attention to these ships nor realized the deck structure were so huge on them. I guess they have a crew way, way larger than I would have ever guess.

Breakers are frequently cargo carriers.  Full of fuel for generators for Arctic outposts. 

Counterintuitively, they also have large refrigeration plants to keep produce as fresh aas possible for those posted to those artic outposts.

I’ve been thinking about this. Might the hairspray technique used for chipping on model aircraft be apropos here? 

Here’s a shot of Arktika from 1980, which has a couple of scars. Interestingly, the atom logo is missing from this time period. The superstructure is more of an orange color. I might take on this color scheme. Just a dilute white wash for the saltiness or frostiness (or both) perhaps? 

I think the shark mouth would be the easiest thing to hand paint.

I have always wanted this Kit but will be watching this one with keen interest.....Cheers Mark

I saw an unusual Arktika item on eBay and had to share. Merry Christmas, everyone!

eBay link (opens in new window).

The more I examine photos of the ship it seems clear that the shape of the bow for Yamal and Arktika are quite different. I think I’ll proceed with Arktika, based on the orange color scheme circa 1980 (the year I was born).

So! I’ve started painting based on the circa 1979-1980 era orange paint scheme. Referencing photos it becomes clear where the inaccuracies in the model are compared to the actual ship. But it doesn’t matter! I’m using a gray primer, and it takes the straight orange color to an extent, I’m sure I can tame it a bit further upon weathering or applying a mineral spirit wash. 

I tried chipping via the hairspray method - it works! 

I’ve also ordered some pastel chalks to add some snowiness or saltiness and rust effects. The question is will these chalks be effective over a clearcoat? I haven’t applied the clear coat yet. In the image below the hull is wet from a spritz of distilled water to rinse it off, and to see how rich the colors may be once I do apply the clear coat (semi-gloss).

That looks great. What a cool subject.  Watching!  Btw the santa thing on ebay was cool.  Make it part of your display ;)

Darkhorse

So! I’ve started painting based on the circa 1979-1980 era orange paint scheme. Referencing photos it becomes clear where the inaccuracies in the model are compared to the actual ship. But it doesn’t matter! I’m using a gray primer, and it takes the straight orange color to an extent, I’m sure I can tame it a bit further upon weathering or applying a mineral spirit wash. 

I tried chipping via the hairspray method - it works! 

I’ve also ordered some pastel chalks to add some snowiness or saltiness and rust effects. The question is will these chalks be effective over a clearcoat? I haven’t applied the clear coat yet. In the image below the hull is wet from a spritz of distilled water to rinse it off, and to see how rich the colors may be once I do apply the clear coat (semi-gloss).

 

Looks very good '

Rick

Saw this picture of a icebreaker shark mouth on Facebook that couild be used as a template for the model Russian icebreaker.

Happy modeling   Crackers  

That’s a great shot of Jamal. Hopefully a modern manufacturer will take on one of these ships. The kit I have is nice so far, but it lacks a lot of detail. Included is a tiny helipcopter that looks absolutely ridiculous. I won’t be adding it.

Despite its simplicity, I thought the simple paint job I gave it looked nice, and I was almost afraid to weather it. But weathering is the most fun part, and when I started there was no going back. I tried a variety of media, but what turned out best was artist oil paints. Some thicker dabs of white beld and broke up with a mineral oil wash that helped achieve the look I was going for based on the reference photos I found. 

Once this dries, whenever that may be, I’ll add some sporadic rust streaks with soft pastel before adding more clearcoat.

I also painted the pedestal black and gold, added an oil wash to make it look brassy. It came out pretty convincingly I think.

looks good

Rick

Outstanding paint job.