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This morning I've been musing on a paint scheme for the hull (while procrastinating on the paper I need to write for my Masters program). Because of the well-documented fact that there are no contemporary images to go by, there is no shortage of ideas. Most seem to incorporate blue, but I came across this image and think I'm going to use it as a model:
http://dwpicture.com.au/picture.asp?picture=13780
Your image didn't show up for me.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
There should be a link now- was having trouble getting it to show up.
Looking good. Nothing makes it easier to paint these Revell models than that good coat of primer that you laid down.
In the near future, you may try to experiment with oil paints They can be a lot of fun.
I've also seen Cook's Endeavour in a very similar scheme, without the yellow wales. She was just a bit earlier than Bounty, and had a white bottom.
Good looking.
Thanks for posting the picture. This HMS Bounty replica I believe was the one used in the movie "The Bounty" starting Anthony Hopkins as Lt Bligh and a young Mel Gibson as Fletcher Christian. I do like this paint scheme better than the other "Bounty" movie replica; the one used in "Mutiny on the Bounty" with Trevor Howard and Marlon Brando from the '60's had a lot more blue in it. That one sank in a hurricane a few years back with loss of all hands, including a direct descendant of Fletcher Christian aboard.
Great work so far - I'm looking forward to watching your progress.
There are two Bounty replicas.
One was built for the Marlon Brando movie. It was painted blue, and a white underbody. It's been reported that she is oversize, around 115%, esepcially in the vertical for better deck heights. Alegedly, she gives sail tours.
The second version was built for the Mel Gibson movie (sort of) and is supposedly cloer to correct dimensions, but has some things moved around for filming purposes, and with some rigging impification. Alegedely, she was legitimately under sail for all filming under sail (the previous version was under power for some shots). This version is also supposed to do cruises for hite, too.
Picture update!
So the deck is about 95% done. I'm still thinking about what--if anything--I want to do to the boat, and then add the line for the wheel assembly. I went back and added a touch of wood color to the deck and then used the matte finish. It isn't quite as dark as it looks; I have a terrible time trying to find good lighting for pictures in my apartment.
Once I finish those few things up, it will be on to the hull!
Nice clean build. You will not regreat using the brass eyebolts, those will make your rigging experience much more enjoyable.
jadowning17Your deck is looking really great. I like the shade of the colors you used. Looking forward to seeing how the hull turns out.
I appreciate that; I spent a lot of time scouring the internet trying to find good colors. The matte spray did a great job of taking off the shine and blending them too.
I'm having a bit of an issue trying to figure out how to do the wood color on the hull to match the picture I posted of the Bounty replica above. I've been testing colors on a spare hull half I have, and the sienna is a bit too flat, while the MM acrylic wood is too light. I tried to see if a wash would work, but it wasn't working as well with the curve of the hull and the various raised moldings. If anyone has suggestions on ways to get a nice oak-type color with a bit of nuance to it, I'd love to hear it!
Alright, the last picture of the deck; I have the longboat finished and tied down. In the end, I didn't do anything special. I bought the styrene strips, but made the mistake of painting before they arrived- they just wouldn't stick, I assume because of the paint. I'm still happy with it:
And there are the beginnings of the hull in the background; I still have significant touching up to do, but it's coming along. Once I have all the lines looking pretty, I'll do a wash over the 'wood' colored section, and then sand the bottom to prepare for the coppering.
She is looking pretty good from here.....Cheers Mark
If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
Good evening all,
Been a few weeks! I think you'll notice some big changes. After learning through a lot of trial and error, I wanted to take one more crack at this build. This time armed with a pin vice, lots of advice, and some new ideas, I was able to go back and salvage the first kit I bought and have one more go. I hope you like the direction I've taken it:
A few notes. I didn't like the copper tape. There may be a way to make it work, and it looks nice on the roll, but as soon as you take it off the tape crinkles up and looks tacky. So I took GM's advice and just painted it. I'm fine with it. I also decided to add some blue; it makes a nice contrast aesthetically and it just didn't feel like the Bounty without it (accurate or not).
Also sorry for the blurriness- I cannot for the life of me figure out how to adjust my camera focus correctly.
More soon!
I can't recall seeing a Bounty as nice as this one, the Revell kit.
It's one of Revell's best.
Thinking is it was based on the Charles Laughton movie.
I think Shellback's decision to only use blue above the top wale is handsome.
I didn't see an answer to an earlier question, but the figures that came with the earlier kits were very good.
Trivia question for the sailors.
Where did the name "Revell" originate from, who coined it and why?
I'll use Dr. Graham as the answer.
Looks really good! I think you made great decisions on YOUR model. You should be very proud of your build so far.
your shipmate,
Ziggy
Thanks, guys. I've certainly been stuttering along, but I've been trying to learn the basics of not just building ships, but models in general- techniques, painting, tools etc. But this one I'm definitely taking to the finish line, I really like how it's turning out.
I do like the figures GM. I'm planning on using them, as long as I can do them justice when I paint them.
There is one question rattling around in my brain. I've seen talk about sealing in the paint, especially acrylics. I've used dullcote and the krylon mentioned above, but I've found they affect the color somewhat and leave a slight sheen. I'm scared to use it on the deck especially. Basically, in my limited experience, I've seen that it certainly puts a nice matte finish over gloss, but over something already flat it leaves a bit of a shine. Thoughts?
I find that fixing/repairing/building a wreck of a model somehow very satisfying. Great to sit back and look at a well done model, knowing how bad it was when you started. You're doing a splendid job.
EJ
Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.
One weathering trick is to seal the color coat with clear acrylic, which will make it kind of shiny, and then make an extremely diluted wash of oil paint in Turpenoid, odorless turpentine. Then flatcoat over that
Like a grain of rice sized glob of paint in a 1/4 cup of turps.
Apply the wash and then wipe it off, generally after about 15 minutes. Oil paints dry slowwwwwwly, so use just a tiny amount. Otherwise it'll be sticky for weeks.
Bill
Revell's Bounty is indeed an amazing kit, especially for how old it is. Really like Shellbacks work too, the way he did blue on the top whale is more subdued and tasteful.
Revell really has done some great ship models, the Charles W Morgan, Bounty, Viking Ship, CS, Kearsarge and Constitution. Plus the later Revell Germany stuff, Emden, Bismark etc.
For GM, I believe the name is a derivation on the word Reveille, meant to mean a new start or some such? Good advice on the oil wash, I use Future (or whatever it is called this week) as my gloss base and turps or varsol as the wash.
Cutty Sark, Mayflower. Eagle.
According to Dr. Graham's Remembering Revell Model Kits, it most likely was picked by their marketing folks because their best selling product at the time was a plastic ladies makeup compact. Sounded like Revlon.
GMorrison Cutty Sark, Mayflower. Eagle. According to Dr. Graham's Remembering Revell Model Kits, it most likely was picked by their marketing folks because their best selling product at the time was a plastic ladies makeup compact. Sounded like Revlon.
Forgot about the Mayflower! Both scales that Revell released it in, are lovely models. Yacht America, that low black schooner, is another Revell great. The box scale Flying Cloud, years ahead of its time, was so accurate, and a very nice model. Ableit small, its detail holds up even today.
Evening folks. Been working quietly in the background; I'll post some pictures when I get everything on the deck together. In the meantime, I thought I would share this pretty interesting Bounty build from another forum:
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19743-bounty-by-backer-revell-plastic-scale-1110-semi-scratch-and-extra-detail/
Lots of excellent scratch building. I'm thinking about trying to copy his work on coppering the bottom; the tape didn't work out for me, but his idea of using a plastic sheet cut to size came out nicely. If I do it, I'll probably buy strips. Curious to hear opinions. A little nervous to go back and try it at this point, but its a cool solution for the coppering "problem."
A few photos:
I still have quite a few little details to wrap up on deck. I need to finish the cannon, and I'm considering adding a rudder to the longboat, but it's coming along. I also think I'm going to try the coppering method the gentleman in the link I posted came up with, I figure if I mess it up I can just sand it back down and repaint it.
Question: as I'm moving along, I'm noticing a lot of spots I'd like to add some eyebolts, like on the catheads and possibly to attach a chain to the rudder (I like how it looks). Would CA glue be enough to hold the eyebolts? It's obviously too late to drill into the hull, and the other pieces are pretty small.
As always thanks for looking at my little Bounty, and a happy and safe Thanksgiving to you all.
Today I worked on getting the cannon on deck. I decided to try and add eyebolts. Given the small amount of space to work with, I decided it would be easiest to tie the eyebolt to the line and then superglue it into place. It's not perfect, but at this small scale, it works pretty well. Was fun to do anyway:
Very well done!
Scott
Really is a lovely clean Build you have going at the moment. Am enjoying your work.....Cheers mark
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