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Trying to fix (sort of) the Revell 1/426 USS ARIZONA hull

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  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Trying to fix (sort of) the Revell 1/426 USS ARIZONA hull
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Sunday, September 1, 2019 6:33 PM

Anyone who has studied the ship and assembled the Revell kit knows that the hull in this model just isn't right. It's too narrow for it's length, because the torpedo blisters aren't right, and it's concave back aft near the shafts where it should be slightly convex. Then, of course there are the molded in lines and paravanes, then the struts only have one leg and are not long enough .  .  .  So, while I'm building a 1939 version of ARIZONA, I'm going to try to fix some of those hull issues. I expect that this should be educational, especially since I have not been doing modeling for some time. We shall see.

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Sunday, September 1, 2019 6:56 PM

This area of the hull is concave and needs to be built up so I'm inserting a filler piece and then Bondo'ing in the gaps.

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Sunday, September 1, 2019 7:01 PM

After making a paper template, I cut out two inserts from .030 thick plain styrene and glued them in. After they dried, I used Bondo filler to take care of the gaps and then sanded. Voila!

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Sunday, September 1, 2019 7:26 PM

After a bunch of the other work is done, I'll do a final finish with filler to smooth everything up. NEXT; the torpedo blisters!

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by PFJN on Sunday, September 1, 2019 11:10 PM

Hi,

Looks interesting.  Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

Pat

1st Group BuildSP

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Monday, September 2, 2019 7:47 AM

HooYah Deep Sea, you'll still have to build up that area as still not round enough. i do that area differently compared to you using 1cm wide strips to initally build that area after removing the hull shaft housing. i'm also doing the bulges using the a modified bread & butter method.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=165105

the model is actually 1/429 scale both by calculations & the original mold drawings.

 

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Monday, September 2, 2019 12:33 PM

Awesome; with that project, or series thereof, I hope you bought stock in either Revell or Evergreen, or both!!

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Monday, September 2, 2019 2:57 PM

bought about 16 kits with 3 still unopened with 13 hulls being worked on. still using a 4'x8' sheet of .040" styrene bought over 10yrs ago that i had  cut into 12"x12" squares. i hardly use putty on these builds because of the way i build them. i even build whole new rudder & skeg to get that stern area more rounded & hollow the same time.

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Monday, September 2, 2019 6:26 PM

You've got telent my friend. Plain and simple, you got it.

I've always stressed on the upper part of ARIZONA, where everybody seems to things wrong. Of course that is mostly due to the model being so wrong. As popular as it is, Revell seriously cut some corners on the original work-up. I know that the 1/350 kits have some of the same issues; I haven't seen the 1/200 up close to check. My big pet peaves are the Frame 88 area structural fiasco, the engineering soft patches, and the aft 1.1" tubs and director pedastals.

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Monday, September 2, 2019 7:20 PM

thankyou.

already corrected the stern on my Arizona & did the torpedo bulge plus being slightly hollow like the real ones were. how are you going to do your bulges?

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Monday, September 2, 2019 10:00 PM

Got it started, adding a strip along the top before it tapers out full beam. Been working on my Lindberg minesweeper salvage project.  

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Monday, September 2, 2019 10:43 PM

i think it is about 1.5mm per side you have to add. the strip gets added below the top of the bulge by about 6mm. have you figured out how to do the bulges' bottoms?

  • Member since
    August 2019
  • From: Central Oregon
Posted by HooYah Deep Sea on Tuesday, September 3, 2019 12:48 PM

There was actually a step at the bottom, below the turn of the bilge, so I thought i'd build the edge for the majority of it with a 1.5x2mm strip. the leading and trailing edges taper into the hull.

"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Tuesday, September 3, 2019 8:09 PM

i glued the hull together first then put the bottom of the hull onto a belt sander to get the bottom as flat as possible then marked a parallel line 2.5cm from hull joint on either side. then marked out the bulges shape in pencil onto the hull connecting those 2 lines for the bulges. i glued 1mm x 5mm strips from the bottom front of the bulge to the back of the bulge right on the pencil lines. 4mm below the top of the bulges, i glued a 1mm thick by 10mm strip parallel to the bulge top from bulge front to bulge stern.

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