S.S. Doctor Lykes Revell H-355

Nice! She looks great. That's a nice kit and it's been a long time since I've seen one not built up as Hawaiian Pilot.

Those holes are for stays for the rigging. If your instructions did not include them; here are the rigging diagrams.

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/4/6/3/103463-64-instructions.pdf

Bill

tks bill.  I thought they might be for rigging....  But there weren't any eye bolts or such and i really could tell by the detailed(HAHA) instructions what wold go there.  I had no parts and none were called out.  The rigging lines shown in the directions seem to fad into the deck.  Attached is what i had and also where the holes are.  I might make up some eye bolts to fill the holes??

Looks great!  I like to see civil ships.

Tojo72

I like it,whats the scale

 

1/367

depends on if scale is derived from the hull length, hull width at deck level or hull width at bottom of hull as hull sides are tapered not parallel.

And, so often those three dimensions proportionally don't usually match up one to the other.

She was a C3 vessell  LOA 492 feet.  However the model is 15" top of bow to top of stern deck.

Nice build! good work......

Ben

To the extent that it matters, I usually measure something like the distances between masts or something like that, compare to a scaled drawings and call it that.

Hot Diggety Dog !

   It's so nice to see work like this on a Civvy Ship!. Very Nice Job. The rigging was supposed to be done Before you mounted the deck actually. That's where REVELL messed up! They weren't clear about that. What you can do is run it to the holes and find the right Evergreen rod or stretched sprue to plug the hole and lock the rigging in place. That Kingpost rigging was necessary.

      There were some of those in the Matson Fleet and I did do Chief Engineer on one, and then moved over to the liner Division. This was to wind down from Tanker duty with Shell. This way I could be home every month or so instead of six or ten months before home visits.

 The only other thing I did to my "Pilot" was to find Model Rail Boxcar walkways that looked right. Cut them linearly and created rails for it. 1/350 ladders( Long Stairs ) look right on her too, and Flat ladders where indicated.

 Turnbuckle. But TB is right vis. simplicity.

Bill

Tks all!  Bill - very detailed diagram.  Where did it come from?  I may still do the rigging - i need to look around for what to use and how detailed i want to get.  Im guessing there are probably rigging kits somewhere out on the net.  This kit did not come with anything close to that - cable spindles or pulley's or the like....  And then, what to use as cable??  On and on - you all know the drill......   We'lll see.

Here's a link to another thread that has a lot of good info from Onyxman (Fred).

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/162687.aspx?page=7

Here's a somewhat simpler image.

They look like something from the American Merchant Seaman's Manual.

Mrchntmarine

very detailed diagram. Where did it come from?

Looks like one of the various illustrations out on the net (image search "cargo boom drawing" and you'll see a tone of them).

There are similar drawings in several books, The Bluejacket's Manual, and Knight's Mondern Seamanship, just off the top of my head. 

For a bit more detail, searching out the Boatswain's Chief/1c Manual describes the actions at a bit more detail.

For a quick overview, cargo booms are typically worked as a athwartships pair. 

A given boom has four things going on at its far end. 
There's the Lift which raises and lowers the boom vertically.
Then, there are two Vangs which orient the boom horizontally.
Lastly, there's the Hoist which sways loads up and down from the boom end.

Booms are usually worked in pairs.
One boom is spotted over the general center of the hatch, the other over the side to the pier.  The Hosts are then connected to each other at the running end.

To get something out of the hold, you drop the hatch Hoist while slacking the other hoist, the hook will drop down into the hold to where it's needed.  You bend on the cargo, and heave the hatch Hoist until the load is clear.  You then take in the slack on the dockside Hoist until the load veers from under the Hatch boom to the dock boom.  Lowering away puts the cargo on the dock.

Here's a video that might help (silly landlubbers call vangs "guys" and hoists "lifts")

Nice explanation Cap'n Mac....you neglected the schooner guy, though, which kept the boom heads from splaying outboard. I was a BM3 on an AKA and had quite a bit of experience with cargo handling. The yard-and-stay rig (sometimes called the "Burton" rig) was an incredibly handy set up. Easy to rig and got the job done. I always enjoy your input on this forum.

 Hey Bill!

 Where'd you get that?That is the same one in my rigging book. You know what Mine is called. Revised Edition - Bluejackets Manual 1945. Cargo Handling, Chapter one! S'Funny, that is! They gave one to every sailor no matter what you hoped to be doing. I do believe the Bos'ns division may be the biggest divisions on some ships!

CapnMac82

 

 

Mrchntmarine

very detailed diagram. Where did it come from?

 

 

Looks like one of the various illustrations out on the net (image search "cargo boom drawing" and you'll see a tone of them). 

Nice video - tks.  Somewhat complicated rigging and this explains it nicely.

Nice, clean build of a not-often-seen subject.

And, yeah, you have to sometimes laugh at the "directions" in old kits, like you have to laugh/cry at the "directions" in some of the newer resin kits.

mfsob

Nice, clean build of a not-often-seen subject.

 

And, yeah, you have to sometimes laugh at the "directions" in old kits, like you have to laugh/cry at the "directions" in some of the newer resin kits.

 

tks. I did enjoy it. I wish there were more of these - have to look. Speaking of directions - working on an edouard Lysander and didn't notice until after I glued the 3 piece cowling, that there was a drill hole spot in the directions and on the piece where I was suppose to  measure and cut a square out for an air intake. Busted it apart and cut out the drill splat and make my square cut.  Fit the pe and put it all back together....  Then noticed in the directions some  more PE that looked to go where the drill hole mark was - OMG - I thought I cut in the wrong spot - that I had done the cowling cut on the wrong half!  

havenot triple checked but I think I got it right. Odd to mark a cut out with a drill hole spot!

@Mrchntmarine

Where did you find a model of Doctor Lyke's?

Monk36

@Mrchntmarine

Where did you find a model of Doctor Lyke's?

 

it Was a gift. I'm told it came off the internet some time ago and had been in storage. My brother had it. 

Paul,

I'm pretty sure that the Dr Lykes kit is a twin with the Hawaiian Pilot kit.  There are a handful of them available on US ebay now.
Rick

It's an earlier release of the Hawaiian Pilot, which has been released over the years and isn't expensive.

Merch had custom decals made. You'll recall his were hopeless, old and cracked. I think it would also be possible to use rub down letters.

Bill

Thank you guys! I have seen the Hawaiian Pilot on eBay. I never put the two together.

I have the Hawaiian Pilot too. Haven't built it yet....  The guy who did the decals did a good job - after he got the scale right. He was prompt on the mailing of the replacement though.  The kits are pretty close. By far the oldest kit I've made and the plastic was brittle and like GM, the decals were shot and turned in color.