Sea Base advice, please

Check out the back issues of FSM, Andy. I am sure that I read an article about how to do just what you are referring to in one a few years back. I love the expression "flat chat"! I've never heard that one before, but it just sounds fast. Where does it come from?

I've struggled with different techniques for making "water," and I have yet to come up with a real solution to the problem. For relatively calm seas I've had the most luck (so far) with a piece of poplar (Lowe's stores carry it), carved into "ripples" with a shallow woodcarving gouge. Then I prime the wood with artist's gesso (prime both sides of the board; otherwise it will warp). I find that artist's acrylics are best for the finish coats of blue, green, grey, or whatever. That kind of paint seems to have an inherent depth and gloss that paints formulated for models don't. A couple coats of artist's high gloss acrylic varnish finishes things off.

I've generally avoided trying to depict ships in motion - for precisely the reasons you've indicated. Another consideration: to my eye, at least, freezing motion in a three-dimensional model never quite works. Maybe the problem is psychological, and it may be unique to my perverse personality, but I'm never really convinced by a ship or airplane or tank model that's supposed to be in motion. (A photograph of such a model doesn't bother me. Like I said, maybe I'm just nuts.)

Anyway, the nearest I've come to an acceptable bow wave was made from Milliput. If you aren't familiar with that substance you're in for a treat. It's a two-part epoxy-based putty that hardens in three or four hours and can be formed into just about any shape. You're going in the right direction by studying photos of the real thing. Different ships, different bow waves and wake patterns.

I don't think I've helped much, but it's a fun topic.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jtilley I find that artist's acrylics are best for the finish coats of blue, green, grey, or whatever. That kind of paint seems to have an inherent depth and gloss that paints formulated for models don't. A couple coats of artist's high gloss acrylic varnish finishes things off. I've generally avoided trying to depict ships in motion - for precisely the reasons you've indicated. Another consideration: to my eye, at least, freezing motion in a three-dimensional model never quite works. Maybe the problem is psychological, and it may be unique to my perverse personality, but I'm never really convinced by a ship or airplane or tank model that's supposed to be in motion. (A photograph of such a model doesn't bother me. Like I said, maybe I'm just nuts.) Anyway, the nearest I've come to an acceptable bow wave was made from Milliput. I don't think I've helped much, but it's a fun topic.

Deffinitely agree about artists acrylics. Artists oils have even more depth and life, but trickier to use!

Deffinitely agree about 'motion' in a model and generally go the same way as you. Just really like that particular pic! The photo works because the photo IS a captured moment in time, but if I can get that vignette to work, you are right - it will photograph great, but looked at on a shelf the viewer will keep waiting for the wave to roll over and break!

Milliput... Hmmmm... There's a thought, roll it out thin on a piece of plastic bag, form it around a pencil or something ...., You've helped quite a bit!

Hi Subfix - origins of flat chat? No idea! Common expression 'down under', didn't realise it wasn't universal

Cheers, Andy!

The March 2004 issue of Finescale Modeler has an article in it describing a modeling process of water. The author built a diorama of a Gemini spacecraft module after it's landing in sea, complete with rubber boats as well as divers in the water . It can be viewed from above and aside, showing the semi-view-through aspect of water.

You may want to have a look, it might give you a few ideas.
Cheers,
Jan Martin Wagenaar

Would model clay work?
I've got a couple of ships that I need to build and put 'in water' and was going to have a go using model clay and sculpting it, then painting it with artists oils.

What scale you working in Rich? For a goodlooking calm sea in 1/700 waterline I have a lot of luck with 100% cotton 300gsm 'Rough' textured artists watercolor paper. You can get a sheet about A2 size from most art/craft type stores for pocket change and that's enough sea to base a LOT of models.

I just use trace around the hull and cut the hole with a new blade so the cut is really clean. The paper is just the right thickness and the 'rough' texture has a sort of ramdom embossing on it that represents about a two foot choppy swell. The beauty of this texturing is that it is random enough, but still has a 'grain' or 'pattern' to it. Hard to describe, but really looks the part! Wake and bow wave can be quickly built up with acrylic modelling compound. This is a thick acrylic gell in a jar from the same place you got the paper, costs about twice what the paper did and is also enough to base the entire fleet! Paint with tube acrylics to taste and finish with a gloss acrylic varnish. Quick, easy, and really looks the part.

In bigger scales, I normally build full hull - there is enough detail on the ship to capture the eye and maintain interest and in fact a sea-base can detract from a 'big' ship, but in 1/700 I find the base enhances the tiny ships!

Cheers Andy!

That sounds like a brilliant idea Andy, thanks for that - I will certainly give it a go.
The ships I normally build are in 1:700, however I bought an Airfix box of 1:600 Falklands war ships the other day - they only have a full hull option which is a bit of a pain, however I'm confident of being able to do soemthing so I can set them in water.
Again cheers for the idea