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Ropes on deck

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  • Member since
    July 2021
Ropes on deck
Posted by BoydCrowder on Monday, July 3, 2023 9:47 PM

I'm a car/truck builder but decided to tackle a ship, the Santa Catarina by Lindbergh. Anyway, there are some curled up ropes on the deck and wondered should I just paint them, weather them or sand them off and use some appropriated sized string or twine? Thoughts? 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 8:05 AM

Hello!

It's your model and you make the rules here. If you feel like it and can pull it off cleanly then it's probably a good idea to replace the molded on detail. But it's ultimately up to you.

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    January 2021
Posted by JoeSMG on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 9:24 AM

Maybe just paint them then cover them with a layer of string?

- Joe the SMG

  • Member since
    May 2023
Posted by Greysteele on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 1:03 PM

Unless I'm mistaken, that model is 1:144 scale. Recreating the rope coils in that scale is going to be a real chore.

If you do decide to remove and recreate the coils, here's a tutorial for doing it in 1:96 scale (for the larger Revell USS Constitution kit):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SddByswjBUs

 

 

"In polite society, we call our obsessions hobbies." – Stephen King

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 1:10 PM

I wouldn't put any energy into it. Whether or not a carrack would have the lines

" Flemished" is a matter of some debate, but isn't important here.

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Orlando, Florida
Posted by ikar01 on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 4:31 PM

Being your first ship, and a smaller scale at that, I would just paint the ropes their flat color and keep going.  You can expand your skills as you go.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by DeweyCrowe on Tuesday, July 4, 2023 4:47 PM

Thanks for all the great advice. Now, I have another question. The instructions are pretty poor and I can't really figure out where the hull should go. Should I just give it my best guess? I'm not a rivet counter but I do want it to look good. 

  • Member since
    March 2022
  • From: Twin cities, MN
Posted by missileman2000 on Wednesday, July 5, 2023 7:26 AM

Greysteele

Unless I'm mistaken, that model is 1:144 scale. Recreating the rope coils in that scale is going to be a real chore.

If you do decide to remove and recreate the coils, here's a tutorial for doing it in 1:96 scale (for the larger Revell USS Constitution kit):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SddByswjBUs

 

 

 

I reccently made a new coiling jig, and have been meaning to shoot and post it.  I wii get right on that.  It will do two sizes of simple coil and two sizes of figure eiight coils.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Wednesday, July 5, 2023 7:52 PM

As Pawel said, it is your model, so you should do what makes you happy.

For what its worth, coiled lines (what ropes are called on a ship) are only done that way when in port.   Imagine what would happen to those neat little coils when a ship was under way at sea in rough water!

 

 

 

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Thursday, July 6, 2023 5:50 PM

DeweyCrowe
and I can't really figure out where the hull should go.

Ah, you are referring to the waterline.

Welcome to the joys of model ship building.

The easiest thing to to find, in the instructuctions some sort of side view, and measure up from the keel on the drawing, and two points on the drawing you can definitively find on the model.

Measure those points on the model, and used that to get the scale of the drawing used.

Prop up the kit in some sturdy way.  Stack blocks of wood, or set a compass, to the waterline height, and then draw the line raight around the hull in pencil (or use a needle to scribe a line).

Now, what to paint below this line is not "settled."  There was a time, roughly after carracks were common, when "whiting" was applied to the hull.  That might just be white lead paint.  It might be tallow and ground lead, or tallow over lead sheeting--any of those, possibly, covered in thin sacrificial planks.

Equally likely, especially in the era of Carracks, would be a black tar coating.  Most of out history on those vessels are from tapestries, pottery, the occasional painting.  And, some have no underwater color shown at all.

And, the "at rest" waterline might not be appropriate, too.  If you look on the kit, there will be a moulded-in set of thicker planking, that's a "wale" and the thicker planks were to give structural strength to the hull.  Some underwater coatings went right up to the bottom of the wale, as that might be wetted as the ship leaned over in the wind.

But, there's not really a hard and fast rule.

Not a lot of cameras in the era before Columbus, so, anyone who says your choice is "wrong" will be hard pressed to prove it.  (That, and it's kind of rude to tell you how to finish your own model.)

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Saturday, July 15, 2023 11:52 AM

Since it's your first ship model ... I vote with the majority and say leave the molded ropes on the deck, paint them a flat "ropish" color and call it done. At the end of the day it's your model and if you're happy with it, then all the better.

  • Member since
    March 2022
  • From: Twin cities, MN
Posted by missileman2000 on Sunday, July 16, 2023 4:24 PM

I promised to show my coiling jig but my computer when southfor a bit.  Here is the jig.

 

 

There are two sets of metal tubing- the brass ones are 1/8 inch and the alumium are 3/16.  In each set there is one standing alone, and a pair almost touching.  The lone one is for a single coi, the adjacent ones are for a figure- eight tie-up.  I use cotton thread ind dip it in thinned white glue 2 parts water to 1 part glue.  After dipping I whith paper toweling to wipe off the fuzz.  I then coil it and let it dry,  with the figure 8 jig I simply cross cover eatch turnwhen ust abouut dry I take it off.  Note the shiny and white color of the surface of the jig.  I coat the matal withe wax before each session of use,  I also tie  a knot around the center of the eight of eight and let it dry further,

 

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