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Here is my Dragon 1/350 Ohio-class model I finished this summer.
The Dragon Ohio kit has been OOP for over a decade, and is hard to find, and expensive if you do. But Dragon recently released the USS Florida, which is a modified OHIO. That kit includes all the original Ohio parts, plus a new sprue for the Florida mods. (It was easy to find the original Ohio instructions online.)
The model was built as a gift for a friend who is a former West Virginia crewmember. I mounted it on a nice base, and added a brass nameplate, and a challenge coin/medallion with the boat’s motto. I also have an acrylic cover to protect the model.
At 22 inches long, the model is difficult to photograph. My friend Pip Moss took this one for me…
Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England
www.marinemodelers.org
Very nice work! You went with the newer black bottom instead of the older anto fouling red?
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Since it is a sub, there isn't much in the way of interesting "in progress" photos to show.
I did find that the top and bottom halves of the hull didn't line up well- it was like gluing two bananas together. The ends met, but there was a big gap amidships.
Here's a shot taken when I started painting- I used a scrap of pine to makea building stand/clamping base. I epoxied another piece inside the hull, to securely receive the wood screws that secure it to the base. The block makes for a great handle, and it fits in my bench clamp base.
The model was primed with tamiya rattle can gray primer. I then applied multiple thin vertical bands of Tamiya semigloss black, slowly building up the color, until it was almost homogenous. I then swithed to Tamiya Nato Black, and blended in some thin coats- in bands. Gloss coat, decals, and a final satiny-flat finished it off.
stikpusher Very nice work! You went with the newer black bottom instead of the older anto fouling red?
I did. Two reasons:
1. I couldn't find a good reference on when the WV was painted in one of the various red/black mixes, and my friend wasn't sure either. (He never saw it out of the water.)
2. I was on a tight deadline, and masking and painting another color would have really slowed me down. ( Getting the red/black line perfectly straight would be a must- any tiny deviation would stand out!)
It really looked nice on the stained wood base, with a nice engraved brass name plate and a WV Challenge Coin, all covered by a custom acrylic cover.
Sharp looking sub there, and from my home state! I don't blame you for going with the all black paint job - not having to mask off, and keep straight, those long borders between the antifouling paint and my usual grey is one reason I only build waterline models.
The photo of the completed model captures the "massivity" of the sub very well.
I had read that the lower hull was only painted red when the subs were new, and that subsequent visits to drydock saw the hull finished only in black. I'm not 100% if my memory is corrrect though. Others will know more.
“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”
Hi, Real G!
It was my experience in real time to see new Subs at launch day and they were Half and Half in color, But subsequently painted a solid Blackish, Anechoic charcoal or Anthracite color all over! Of course "Anachoic " refers to the Sonar deadening qualities of the paint or tiles (If Used)!
And, they are using organic tin and/or copperous oxide as the antifoul agent, as well as having ablative type paint. thus, color isn't as big a factor as it used to be.
(Oh, and everybody knows that black is quieter anyway, right?)
"Why do I do this? Because the money's good, the scenery changes and they let me use explosives, okay?"
Brilliant model!
Best wishes!
- Steve Larsen
Catalog of over 3,000 3D-printed products for scale modelers.
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