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displaying ships

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 13, 2004 11:43 AM
Wow, It looks like I'll have to go out and buy a wood shop! I think I am going to try it out... This is my first ship/PE model., so everything is in the test phase. I think I'll start off with the "lamp" idea, and then for my next model, when I know a little more about PE and all, I'll move to the blocks, because I really like the way they look. Then after that... dare I say it... move onto sculpting water.
Shock [:O]
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 6:52 PM
If I were you I'd start out by getting two flat-headed bolts of an appropriate diameter and length to go through the baseboard, the keel blocks, and the bottom of the hull, with about 1/2" to spare. (I'd suggest about #6 or #8 bolts.)Then drill a couple of holes, big enough to accommodate the bolts with a little wiggle room to spare, carefully centered on the bottom of the hull. (Where they are fore and aft doesn't matter much, as long as they're in line with two of the keel blocks. ) If I remember right there's a faint parting line right down the center of the hull; if you haven't scraped that parting line off, it will locate the holes.

Then drill two corresponding holes (being careful to keep them vertical) through the two appropriate keel blocks and the baseboard. Countersink the holes on the bottom of the baseboard for the boltheads. Thread the bolts up through the baseboard, the keel blocks, and the hull, and put a hex nut onto each bolt. Spread some epoxy around the edges of the two nuts, so they're stuck firmly to the hull. While you're doing all this, make sure the hull is lined up correctly - i.e., that it isn't skewed on the keel blocks or listing to either port or starboard. Just before the epoxy hardens completely (but when it's hardened enough to keep the nuts from wiggling), unscrew the bolts. That will keep any stray drops of epoxy from mounting them permanently. Now you can finish the model without worrying about the base, and you can finish the base separately.

It's taken me about twice as long to describe all this as it will take to do it. One other suggestion that will take a little time, though: spend as much time as necessary to get a nice finish on the baseboard and the keel blocks. There are lots of good wood finishing products on the market these days. My own favorites are Minwax stains and solvent-based polyurethane varnishes. It's worth devoting several days to staining, varnishing, sanding, and varnishing again. (I confess I'm having reservations about this part at the moment. I'm in the midst of finishing four dining room chairs that we bought at an unfinished furniture store. I was assured that my wife and/or kids would help with the finishing. Yeah, right.)

It's a nice kit, a pretty ship, and an extremely worthwhile project. We've all seen nice models fail to meet their potential in terms of overall visual impression because the modeler didn't put any effort into the final display of the model. It's worth it. Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by glweeks on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 5:00 PM
You can mount the finished hull to the base with screws & Super glue, but then you have to mask off the entire base and hull to work topside stuff. With lamp finials you can set it up so that you screw the finial to the hull after the ship is all done, then the ship/finials are bolted (nuts) into recesses in the underside of the base. Of course if you drop the ship while you're doing all this bolting and screwing............... Well, there goes a coupla months.............(got the T-shirt). Then there's water............
Wink [;)] G.L.
Seimper Fi "65"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 12:24 PM
jtilley, great post. I am working on a 1/350 Fletcher right now and I've seen the wood "keel block" idea. What is the best way you think to attach it to the base? Should I bolt it down before I put the deck on and build the model while its bolted to the base, or is there a better option? Thanks a whole bunch.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 10:26 AM
There are all sorts of ways to display a ship model. Since I'm not sure what sort of ship is your favorite I can only make some general comments, but here goes.

One popular and dignified way to show off any kind of ship is with a pair of pedestals. The usual material is brass, but mighty nice pedestals can be made from wood. If you don't want to make them yourself, various sizes are sold by such firms as ModelExpo and Bluejacket. Most of these have grooves in their tops, to accommodate the keel of a sailing ship. You can saw and file the top flat if your ship has a flat bottom.

Another common source of pedestals is the lamp department of the local homeowner's store. A display of lamp repair parts will usually include some finials that can be reworked into pedestals. There are two problems here, though: the range of heights and diameters is severely limited, and so many other folks have done the same thing that knowledgeable observors will immediately recognize the lamp finials for what they are.

The spacing and height of the pedestals are crucial to the finished model's aesthetics. I don't know of any hard-and-fast rules here; I do know that a model sitting on pedestals that are too high, or spaced to far apart, looks pretty awful. Maybe the best approach is to work out the problem on paper first. Get a drawing of the completed ship (e.g., the drawing on the instruction sheet) and go to work with a pencil. Draw in a hypothetical pair of pedestals (maybe three if it's a big ship) and adjust the spacing and height till they look right to your eye (which, after all, is the eye that matters most).

Another nice way to mount a full-hull model is on "keel blocks." A row of closely-spaced blocks made from some nice hardwood (say, walnut or cherry) looks vaguely like the blocks used to support a ship in drydock. The ones at the bow and stern are narrower than the ones amidships. Done carefully, this can be a really nice display system that heightens the aesthetics of the hull.

It's vital to plan the display method early in the process of building the model. Some sort of mechanism for attaching the hull to the base needs to be built into the hull. It can take the form of a thick block of wood, or a couple of nuts (the threads matching those of the mounting screws). But if you don't think about the mounting method in advance, the model will never be stable.

Whatever mounting method you use, the model obviously needs to be fastened to some sort of baseboard. If you have access to some basic woodworking tools you can of course make it yourself. If not, the aforementioned ship model companies sell pre-cut baseboards with routed edges in a variety of sizes. If circumstances permit, it's a good idea for the baseboard to be considerably larger in width and length than the model. (Some people mount sailing ship models with their yards and bowsprits overhanging the baseboards. That's a recipe for disaster.)

The final touch is a nameplate - traditionally of brass, but nowadays you can crank out a nice one on your computer. Woodworking companies (try <www.leevalley.com> or <www.rockler.com>) offer brass, steel, and pewter "card holders" that make nice frames for computer-generated name plates.

The exhibit case is another topic.

Hope this helps a little.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
displaying ships
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 9:52 AM
I have some ships that have placed and i like how people display them on stands and stuff but i cant figure out how to do it. Can any one help me with this. what do they use to hold the models off the base ect.
thanks,
seakinght Question [?]
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