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U-Boat in progress with wood deck

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 16, 2004 5:04 PM
All the boats always had wood for their decks. You just can't tell it from the pictures because it's covered in a thick black preservative which became a charcoal color upon exposure to the elements. There were metal sections at the extreme stern and bow sections, but under preservative and paint you really can't tell they are made of different materials, even sitting right next to each other. So don't shy away from the brass kit because it's metal and the decks were wood. The pictures of U-boats do not show wood grain, and brass affords an unparalleled level of detail.

Another nice thing about brass is that it's very close to the correct thickness in scale, where the Revell deck is much too thick. In scale, the brass deck is 3/4" thick, very close to the real thing. When you look at the slots in the deck, they should actually be very thin, looking very sharp. The Revell deck shows sidewalls in the deck slots that if scaled up would make the deck way too thick, maybe 3-4". This thick look is of course a limitation of injection molding technology. The brass has the correct look of a very thin plate, which is how it looks in the pictures. It's the same story for the holes in the sea hull, both limber holes and flooding holes. The sea hull should be quite thin, and all holes that go through it should present as thin a profile as possible.


The late war VIIC had a much simplified deck which is more recognizable as wood since it's installed in long parallel slats. This is the boat with the double wintergarten and the row of cannisters toward the bow.

  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by lenroberto on Thursday, August 12, 2004 11:15 AM
Larry-

If you spend some time searching the forum at: www.uboat.net
you will read a whole lot about colors and decks- it seems some were wood and some were steel thoughout the war. Consensus is that later in the war- most were wood due to shortage of steel...It is really hard to get solid info about a particulat boat so I guess you can't be proven wrong whichever way you choose to go...

Len
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 12, 2004 10:56 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by lenroberto
I plan to load this up with rust and grime so the wood makes it easier. And if you were going to do a late war boat which did have real wood decks- it would be perfect to sand through your deck paint to show obvious wear and tear down to bare wood...

Hope that helps...


It does help, thanks. How late in the war did the Type VIIs start getting wood decks?
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by lenroberto on Thursday, August 12, 2004 10:22 AM
Larry- the reason I sepnt the money was mainly because there was no way I would have been able to drill through all the holes in the deck and make it look good.

This set takes care of all that hassle and does it perfectly.

I guess I could have used one of the brass decks but I figured it would be much easier and realistic looking to scuff up and weather a soft wood deck rather than brass.

I plan to load this up with rust and grime so the wood makes it easier. And if you were going to do a late war boat which did have real wood decks- it would be perfect to sand through your deck paint to show obvious wear and tear down to bare wood...

Hope that helps...

Len
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 12, 2004 8:45 AM
Ok, here's a dumb question from a guy who doesn't build ships much. Does the wood deck really improve the appearance of the model, or is this a "God knows it's real wood" situation? Hey, we armor modelers do it all the time, puttiing an interior no one will ever see inside a tank model.

I have this kit and would consider investing in this kind of AM stuff but only if it makes the kit look better than box stock. Thanks.
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by lenroberto on Thursday, August 12, 2004 7:04 AM
Hi Azrog:

CT Hatch- no option for opening but anything is possible
CA Glue- using standard very thin CA- White Elmer's Glue in small quantities in certain sections for strength- I may use Elmer's to attach CT to deck...
I am going to leave the end as wood- painting and weathering will make them look about the same so I am not going to bother.

Len
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 5:17 PM
Len:

Looks great! A few questions:

Can the CT hatch be shown open?
What type CA are you using to fasten the bass wood to plastic?
Are you going to cut the deck and use the original plastic bow and stern sections (as per the Nautilus suggestions)?

Look forward to seeing pics of your progress.

"Should we prosper it shall be as is our custom...by Miracle!"Captain [4:-)]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Warwick, RI
Posted by paulnchamp on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 3:14 PM
That looks great, Len. I've been contemplating the purchase of that wood set when the time comes. . .
Paul
Paul "A man's GOT to know his limitations."
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by lenroberto on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 12:37 PM
Hey there Jeff- IM me when you get a chance!

I decided to do it as U-552- I love the red devil....seems to be the popular choice but that's what I'm doing. It will be an exercise in rust replication!

See you in October...

Len
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 11:58 AM
So is this going to be your HMS Graph??

J
  • Member since
    December 2002
U-Boat in progress with wood deck
Posted by lenroberto on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 10:27 AM
Pics of my Revell 1/72 UBoat in progress with the excellent Nautilus Models upgrade set in laser-cut basswood:




Set is very nice but does require careful dry-fitting before you open the bottle of CA...

Len
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