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Color of masts - USS Chesapeake

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Color of masts - USS Chesapeake
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 4, 2004 8:55 AM
Another day, another question.
Can anyone give me an idea on the best way to make a oiled wood look on my top masts, topgallants, and royal masts? From the research I've done at the Navel Academy Museum so far, the lower masts were black with to oiled wood abaove. My qusetion is this. Is there a paint out there that will give me this effect or do you fine people have a trick to mixing something?
As always, thank you for the help and feel free to let me know if you need anything from the DC area.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Monday, October 4, 2004 2:29 PM
The first question to be answered concerns the material you're going to use for the masts. The last time I did a sailing ship from scratch (it was longer ago than I like to admit) I used degame, an extremely hard wood that turns reasonably well in a lathe and refuses to bend. Its big drawback is that, though it doesn't bend, it does snap. It's hard and shiny, but does accept stain. I found that by applying stain in thin coats and letting it sit awhile before wiping it off, I was able to get pretty good results. I have no idea where to get degame nowadays, though.

On my last model (a modified kit) I used cherry. Various suppliers stock it; Woodcraft ( <www.woodcraft.com> ) sells cherry dowels that are easy to work with. Cherry, when turned down to diameters of 1/8" and smaller, is hard but fairly springy. It takes a beautiful finish, and the grain is fine enough to give a nice scale effect. The one drawback is that it's just a bit dark.

I like the solvent-based stains sold by Minwax (available at places like Lowe's and Home Depot), either in cans or in felt-tipped pens. The latter provide a neat, handy way to stain model parts. My suggestion is to see what stain colors your local dealer has to offer and bring a few of them home. The right color for oiled and greased masts is a reddish, even slightly orangish tint. As I said, cherry is a little dark for the purpose; a little stain goes a long way on it. But I haven't found a conveniently-available wood that works better.

For the final finish I recommend highly diluted shellac. Through trial and error you can get just the faint gloss that's appropriate. Shellac is a remarkably versatile and durable finish that, I'm afraid, lots of modelers don't appreciate. It's a little hard to find these days, but most of the mail order woodworking supply companies stock it in considerable variety.

Hope this helps a little. Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 5, 2004 8:22 AM
Ah, Home Depot. The grown boys toy store. Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try and see what comes out. Hope all is well down south.
Chris
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 8, 2004 12:42 PM
This is a plastic kit. What's that? Why yes there is quite a bit of scratch built work. Three words for you. Well Vented Room.....
Any thoughts on how to get a real oiled look on a plastic masts?
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Friday, October 8, 2004 1:27 PM
Use oil paintLaugh [(-D], no really, use oil paint. First, prime the mast with a good automotive primer, then paint a light base of antique white Gesso thinned with turpintine, then do three or more washes with a mix of burnt sienna and antique white oil paint. A final light wash of coal black using the dry brush technique will give you your grain, then do a final coat with a clear sealer. Be warned, this process takes a really long time since you do the washes when the oils are dry, and you need to wait a few weeks before putting on the sealer, but I will tell you, the final finish will fool anyone.

There are a few WW1 aircraft modelers that use this technique. I was shown it at a very young age by my mother, who was a professional artist.

Scott

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Friday, October 8, 2004 1:34 PM
Well, my first suggestion is (at least in the case of the smaller, upper masts, such as the topgallant and royal masts) to get rid of the plastic pieces and replace them with wood. Styrene is a wonderful material for many purposes, but not a good one for spars. It's too flexible. In the case of a big, fat lower mast the difference is negligible, but in an upper mast or yard wood is far easier to rig.

Upper masts usually are pretty simple in configuration; there usually aren't any mast bands, hounds, etc. If you aren't set up to turn spars on a lathe you can do it quite effectively with an electric drill and a piece of sandpaper. If you don't have access to any of the unusual woods I mentioned earlier, a local dealer may have some dowel stock that will work perfectly well. Places like Lowe's and hobby shops seem to be stocking dowels in two materials these days: oak and birch. Oak is lousy for ship models because the grain is too course, but birch works really nicely. Just be sure to pick a dowel whose grain is nice, straight, and parallel to the length. If the grain crosses the dowel it will warp eventuallly.

If you do want to imitate wood with plastic, it can in fact be done pretty convincingly. Start out by painting the spar with a yellowish tan color, and let it dry thoroughly. Then pick a darker, reddish-brown paint and put a thick dollop of it, from the bottom of the jar, on a piece of paper. To apply it to the mast, use the extremity of the Mk.1mod3 index finger. Dip your finger in the paint, wipe most of it off on your cat or some other convenient repository, and wipe the remainder lengthwise along the spar. If too much of the dark color is deposited, use another finger to wipe most of it off. To get really sophisticated, pick yet a third wood-like color and repeat the process. If you're careful (and willing to make several tries), the illusion of wood grain will be really effective.

This trick works with virtually any kind of hobby paint. One of the byproducts of the current boom in aircraft and armor modeling is the huge range of browns, beiges, yellow ochres, and so forth that can be found on the Testors and Polly-Scale racks. (Polly-Scale is my favorite, but I'm sure the others will work.) Ignore the labels like "Italian Desert Sand" and "Panzer Red-Brown"; squint a little at the paint bottles and pick out the ones that look like wood.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 8, 2004 2:30 PM
Thanks to both of you for the advice. Like always, great advice. I will try these. Including the cat Evil [}:)]You can never have to many tricks. Let me know if you ever need anything from the DC/Baltimore/Hampton Roads areas.
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by shannonman on Friday, October 15, 2004 9:11 AM
I have posted this on your other Chesapeake question, but, just in case you did not see it .

Hi,
Further to my last post, this might be of some interest.
www.cronab.demon.co.uk/cmill.htm
"Follow me who can" Captain Philip Broke. H.M.S. Shannon 1st June 1813.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 15, 2004 10:22 AM
Shannonman,
Thanks for the link. Some nice reading here.This battle has always been one of my favorite bits of navey history. Let me know if I can ever do anything for you.
Chris
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by shannonman on Monday, October 18, 2004 12:28 PM
Thanks chrisstedt,
As you can see from my name, its also my favourite battle.
Here is another site that might be of interest, its a ship from the same class as the Shannon.
http://chide.museum.org.uk/hms.trincomalee/hms.trincomalee.index.html

Its a bit up and down at the moment, if you can't connect, leave it for a while and try again.

When you have some pic's of the Chesapeake, it would be nice to see them.
"Follow me who can" Captain Philip Broke. H.M.S. Shannon 1st June 1813.
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