does my New Jersey need ballast ?

I wanted a WW2 version of the Tamiya 3:50 scale New Jersey so I boight Tamiya's Missouri which has all the WWII stuff on it and just changed the decals and the decal number to 62. I realy loved the ship so much and it came out so well that I indulged myself in a beautiful custom-built glass and cherry-wood trophy case...I forget the name of the company but it advertises in FSM. The case, of course, cost four or five times more than the model, but it was worth it to keep dust and crud off the model...

Here's an idea for an easy-to-make (and inexpensive) working base that has saved more than one of my ship models from those unexpected "capsizes." The 1x2 is enough weight that, even over short distances (i.e., workbench to floor), it self-rights before most impacts. It also makes it tons easier to work and build, paint, and even mask waterlines and such without constantl having to grab the hull. It lets you reach any angle (depending on the length of your screws), and is a built-in fixture if you decide to mount the model on a base when it's done. (If that's the plan, make sure you measure carefully for where the screw holes go.)
As always, excuse the crudity of the drawing:


I have two, one for 1/700 and one for larger scales. The only caution I'd add is to make sure there's enough room inside the hull for screws to go in. (Your BB shouldn't be a problem, but destroyers and torpedo boats can be tricky.

Just a thought.
Greg

Being that I model in wood as well as plastic, I think plastic ships feel too light, so I tend to place modeling clay and some fishing sinkers along the keel line of the hull. It gives the ship some added stability, as well as a nice, quality, feel when someone goes to pick it up. I also find that a weighted hull keeps the ship much more stable if you must transport it.
Scott

hmm, i havent really given displaying it a very great deal of thought. are the kit stated height numbers accurate ? my bookshelf is long enough, wide enough, but after a base to put the ship on, im not so sure if its tall enough.

I don't think there's any danger of the finished model capsizing by itself. If you're worried about its getting knocked over too easily due to external forces (human, feline, etc.), it wouldn't do any harm to put some weight in the bottom of the hull. The classic material for that purpose is modeling clay.

You also might want to give some thought, early in the proceedings, to how you're going to display the finished product. A big, beautiful model like that, in which you've put in a great deal of time, deserves a nice base. If you glue a good, solid chunk of wood into the bottom of the hull now, you can drill holes in the hull bottom and use wood screws to mount the model on whatever kind of base you prefer. (Brass pedestals and wood "keel blocks" are popular.)

Good luck.

I havent had a problem with any of the three builds of this fine model. Just put your props, t skegs rudder and such on last and build the model ontop of an old rag to protect the finish. Works great!