Charles W. Morgan (Pics added)

The comp. hatch sides were tan and the top was light grey as were the tops of all cabin and work areas. the reason for this was it was easier to keep clean, you need to remember that when "working a whale" the oven was going and there was a awful amount of smoke pouring from the two stacks, whichj were black also.

The windlass pump assem. was flat black. The triworks are brick red with a back wash. the front iron doors are black as they are in the open position and the inside would be burned black. the "two holes" on top are black, the fuel box at back is brown. I'am going to tri and tank a picture of mine today I have everything painted but the trrip on the boat stays anf the rub rail on the outside of the ship.

Big Jake,
What about the foc'sl companionway hatch and the windlass and pump assy's forward of it? I haven't found pics of this area. My inner bulwarks are light grey, and cabin walls are tan. Some pics. I have show the masts painted tan with black around the steps.
On the tryworks I added some strip to make a slight rim around three sides as shown on Mystic's site and I am considering removing the aft skylight and redoing it.

Clatmore,

The large aft skylight has windows in it, you can use white glue to simulate. Acording to the recent pics I found of the CWM the masting and all walls outside of the deck houses were tan and the inner bulwarks were light grey. No matter how well the crew cleaned up after a kill-fleshing they could never clean the "yellowish" tint off the paint, so they painted it light grey.

Hope this helps.

Big Jake,
Thanks for the offer, will be in touch. My Cutty Sark met an untimely demise. Cats!
Some in progress pics. Due to age the whole kit was yellowed and translucent so it was primed with flat white.

Aft deck structures minus cabins.


Same as above but better pic, you can see where the mounting lugs for the cabin walls had to be trimmed away.


Fore structures.


Hull profile after first coat of black.

Hi Claymore 68,

my email changed to jbgroby@cox.net email off bb and I'll link you a few pictures of the morgan I started doing for a client just recently. Also I have the finished pictrue of the Cutty sark.

Jake

With ref to sail material for small scale model boats/ships.
I have used three different materials.
1) Drafting Linnen. A bit difficult to find these days due to cad. Wash well before use.
2) Coat lining material. A nylon fabric can be cut with a soldering iron and coloured with boot polish for tanned sails. Used it on my Thames Barge Kathleen.
3) Light weight spinacer cloth.As above but has a weave problem in some cases.
I might suggest Plank on Frame Models by Harold Underhill vols one and two would be of great help.
Dai.

My apologies for the tardy reply.
Yep, it's 1/96 (by my measurements) she was just a small ship. The pics at mystics website aren't much help although I can buy a set of better ones. I have some in progress pictures I'll post as soon as they are developed.
I fone of you guys that built the USS Constitution or Cutty Sark have leftover rigging blocks you could send It would be appreciated, I will reimburse for postage. Thought I would ask you guys before I bought some.

I got mine on e-bay for about $20.00US incl. S&H. It's Revell kit # H 346, Overall length of about 14 inches.

Claymore,

Are you sure the scale is 1/96th. that's big for the 13" model, I'm building a 1/96th Cutty Sark for a client. The revell model is 1/96th. which is 3ft. long, if that is correct you can order a set through Heller for the HMS Victory, probally run you about 20.00 with shipping.

Jake

P.S.

Send a few pictures to me if you can.

Derek

Did you realize that the real Morgan still exists at Mystic Seaport in Conn? I suspect their website has photos of the ship.

Derek

claymore,

Where did you find your Charles W. Morgan kit ? When I was 12 yrs old, my Mom and I built the Morgan. That was 35 yrs ago, and I don't remember too much about how the final outcome looked, but I do however remember being proud about it. Unfortunately, the model suffered an untimely demise when our house was being remodled. I now wish to build her again. I've looked at all the internet hobby stores I know of. Can ya steer me in the right direction ?

Thanks,

Ted

Bluejacket Shipcrafters in Maine sell a nice line of blocks in brittania (white, leadfree) metal. The only down side is they have to be primed and painted. A wide range of sizes is available. Model Expo in Florida also sells wooden blocks in a wide range of sizes. Both companies are on the web.
Model Expo also sells the Model Shipways kit of the Charles W. Morgan. You may be able to get the plans only for a lot less than from Mystic. If not, drop me a line off list. I have a copy of the plans somewhere and they may be in copy condition. If not, I could do a text version detailing what you need.

Long Island Ed.

Hull and deck is progressing nicely, masts are assembled and primed shortly it will be time for rigging. Unfortunately the rigging plan is, IMO, only good for the standing rigging. The running rigging lacks details like blocks and some of the tackle so research is the name of the game now (Mystic Seaport wants nearly $90.00 for the plans).
I do need to find a source for 1/96 scale blocks so if anyone knows of one please post.

B. LeCren:
Thanks, that is what i needed.

Anyone:
The instructions call for grey on the inside hull from deck to gunwale but the pics I have seen of the real deal show a yellowish (mustard?) color. same is true of marlin spike rails and the cabin. The real tryworks appears to show brick on the fore end only, sides and stern covered with iron and the top coppered but the kit shows all brick. What is correct?

Regarding sail materials:
I have offered up this reference before, and stand by it: "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. He recommends white cotton cambric, or other very thin close woven materials. The intent is to reduce the weave in scale so it is hardly noticeable. Wash the material in warm water first to make it more pliable. He also gives a method for dyeing the sails with tea to achieve the correct colour.
Use paper templates, kind of like sewing patterns. Don't forget accessories such as the bolt ropes, reef bands, etc. as they will show up in your scale.
I like to furl my sails as I think this looks better than a static model under full sail but this is only my opinion. Another idea is to brail up the lower sails so as not to impede the view of the deck (upon which you have lavished such care and attention, right?).
Ships under sail always look better (I think) with the yards braced around as well.
Let me know how you make out ...
Regards.

What? You mean to tell me there's actually ships out there with no AA guns?

Just kidding. I built the Morgan awhile back, and it's a great kit, no accuracy problems that I could find based on the builder's plans.

Jeff Herne
Modelwarships.com

IT'S HERE! Anyone have a recomendation for cloth sail material? Maybe a quality t-shirt? Or maybe I should go to a sewing store. Well any way it will be a while before i need that.

Yes, I built it 10 years ago. Pretty detailed. Be careful with the rigging part. You may want to replace the sails with something that looks more like cloth than plastic. You could leave out the sails altogether. No guns though. But it was a whaler after all.

Thanks for the input and link.

Yes I have built it and it is a VERY DETAILED kit for it's small size. This is one of the best ship kits for it's size out there. There is a lot of sub-assembly and sub-detail painting you will need to do.

My email is jbgroby@bellsouth.net if you have detailed questions, please drop me a line.

There are a lot of small parts to set aside to sub-paint white,

Here is the link to ther web site:

http://www.northstar.k12.ak.us/schools/upk/mystic/morgan/morgan.html