Putty Filler etc.

I prefer Squadron White for bigger jobs, and a product called Porc-a-Filler for smaller seams and surface imperfections. It's a porcelain chip filler, can be found at most hardware stores, is inexpensive, and works very well. It wet sands very easily, polishes out like glass and takes paint well. Best of all, a decent sized jar retails for about $4.

I've also used Tamiya Putty which works well, although not all hobby shops will stock it.

Hope that helps,

Jeff Herne

I like my own filler. If I think I'll need filler, I chop up some of the sprue in the kit and throw it in some Tenax-7R (or any good liquid, plastic glue). Two to one, glue to sprue, by volume. It can take a couple of days, for all of the sprue, to completely melt. If you need to thin it, add glue. I you need it thicker, add sprue, or let it stand open for a few hours.
It's main advantages are: 1) it matches the original color of the model, 2) it's goes on like thick paint, 3) sands exactly like surrounding plastic, 4) Once sanded, it's invisible (before sanding it's got the same color and finish as the model), 5) with patience, it can be buffed back to the original finish of the model.
There are several disadvantages to this stuff, too: 1) it takes time to fully set up (the thinner the coat, the faster the set-up time), 2) it has to go one in thin layers or it will melt unlaying plastic, 3) if you leave it open for a couple of days, it hardens, 4) it starts to set-up quickly (gets stringy).
If you need to fill a open hole, Put a piece of scotch tape over one side or the hole. Then, paint light layers on, until it is filled.
It can be quirky, so practice with it, on some sprue, till you get the feel of it.
Mike

Jeff,

The Porc-a-filler, can you dry sand it also?

Jake

This is what I use is 1) Spot-n-glaze filler - which is used in autobody work. I like it because its light, smooth and creamy, sands well, and can be found at any automotive store and is inexpensive. This works great for injector pin marks. 2) Thick CA (superglue) for seam filling 3) Chudofill - which is a composit plastic/wood filler that works well for large gaps and building up surfaces. This bonds to both wood and plastic, but isn't real great with metal. It also has a million other brandnames that you find at any hardware store. 4) Microballoons for really big build-ups and fills, however, it will melt plastic if not careful. and 5) like Jeff, I recommend the Porcelin filler because it works well with multi-medias such as filling between brass and plastic. I like it when filling gaps between photo-etched parts and the plastic because it fills more uniformly then CA .

Scott