FIRST item: Some of the details, on the YMW hull top, projects above the bottom of the underside of the deck, on the Nautilus and Revell decks. Specifically the after battery induction piping and the aft torpedo exterior stowage locker.
If you're using the ModelBrass deck, shimmed up to model hull's top edge, you're home free. If you glued the deck directly to the support lip and sanded the hull edge down to it, you're screwed.
For the RoG and Nautilus decks, just grind out a pit for these items and you're all set. You only have to grind out a pit, about a 1/16" deep. It's a quick and easy fix.
SECOND item. I wanted my periscopes to raise and lower, as in the original design. BUT, I'm using the ModelBrass CT bridge deck, the RoG lower CT, the Warhammer upper CT details and Steve Nuttall's scopes. Mixed media, by any definition.
Drilling out the parts is no big deal, but how to keep them aligned while the glue sets, IS.
I use "Slow JET" cyanoacrylate glue. Works great and set slowly enough to insure everything can be moved around till it all lines up.
The problem is, how to keep everything aligned, while the glue sets. Easy, put the scopes in place. Next problem, glue, leaking into scope well, glues scope in place. Fix; a light coat of dish washing detergent (I like Dawn)on the scope body. I then let the glue set for half an hour, or so. Then I give the scope a gentle turn and slide it out. Works great.
After twenty four hours check the fit. If the scope binds, use a jewelers file to clean the well out.
THIRD, and lastly, resin part warping. (And, I know, this is going to make many cringe.
![Evil [}:)]](/FSM/CS/emoticons/icon_smile_evil.gif)
) A heat gun. As long as you use it quickly and for a very short time, it works great on large flat areas. Like the lower flats in the CMK torpedo room. Just back the warped area with a piece of flat metal and heat it for a couple of seconds. (Longer than that will cause the resin to ripple, or even run.) I got great results with this method.
Mike K.