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some help with colors - Wright flyer.

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  • Member since
    November 2005
some help with colors - Wright flyer.
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 2, 2005 8:44 AM
I know ot's the ship-section, but I was told, you're the ones who could help me with my problem.
I'm building Revell's Wright Flyer and I'm facing a few problems with colors...
First, the canvas: the instruction advises not to paint it, but I think it would be more fabric-like painted. If only I knew how to paint canvas. (Exact color, effects, etc...)
How about the wooden parts?

Thank you...
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Monday, July 4, 2005 12:17 AM
You're probably right. (Or wright, as the case may be. Sorry; it's a hot and humid night here in the Southeast.) This particular subject has more in common with sailing ships than with any other kind of aircraft.

I took a look at the real thing just a few weeks ago, at the Smithsonian. It's been restored (for the umpteenth time) fairly recently, and now resides in an extremely interesting gallery that's devoted entirely to the Wrights. The old artifact obviously has aged quite a bit. The canvas has been replaced several times, and I'm fairly certain most of the wood parts have been refinished at least once. So take all the following with a large grain of salt.

The canvas currently on the aircraft represents the best efforts of the Smithsonian curators (who are just about the best in the profession) to replicate the original. It's bare, apparently untreated muslin, or something similar - an off-white in color. The color in which the Revell/Monogram "canvas" parts are molded is in fact quite close to the original. It does have the unmistakable look and sheen of unpainted plastic, though. If I were building the model (it's on my "to-do-someday" list), I'd be inclined to paint those pieces with flat paint of just about the same hue as the plastic.

The struts and othe wood parts are, if I remember correctly, spruce. In its fresh, unfinished form it's a light, yellowish brown, but it darkens considerably with age and the application of any kind of finish. The struts on the Wright Flyer have had some kind of finish applied to them; I suspect it's shellac. (I'm sure the Smithsonian has published a detailed description that would remove all doubt.) Shellac gives a warm, slightly orange-ish cast to the wood, along with a semi-gloss sheen. The 1903 photos of the aircraft make it clear that the struts were darker than the canvas, but not nearly as dark as the brown plastic of the kit parts.

A trick I've seen applied pretty effectively to some models in the magazines is to paint the struts light brown, then give them a thin coat of Tamiya transparent orange. I haven't tried that myself, but I like the look it seems to create.

One key element of the aircraft's appearance is difficult, if not impossible, to reproduce on a model like this: the wings, "rudders," and "elevators" were translucent. If the aircraft is between you and the nearest light source you can see the shapes of the internal framework through the canvas, and components between the canvas and the light show up in silhouette. Modelers have come up with various ways to suggest that on opaque plastic parts, usually by shading the areas around the ribs with a slightly darker hue.

Here's a source of information that may not be well known. In observance of the 100th anniversary of the first flight, the university where I work sponsored a research project in which a fine historian, Larry Tise, took an extremely careful look at the documentary and photographic information regarding the Wrights - with emphasis on the time they spent in North Carolina. The university library created an online "digital exhibition" of documents and photos, including quite a few that have never been published. Here's the link: http://www.lib.ecu.edu/exhibits/wright/index.html . For the most relevant photos, click on "Photos," then on "Hidden Images." In Photo #669, see if you can figure out the "unknown reason" why Wilbur is "distancing himself" from the Flyer just before the first flight. I must say it seems fairly obvious.

The famous photo of the Flyer lifting off the ground for the first time has been reproduced so many times that few people pay close attention to it any more. It's usually reproduced with severe cropping - which takes out some of the most interesting features. Once you start studying it carefully it becomes one of the most fascinating pictures in the history of aviation. The print on the ECU site shows the whole frame, including the broken corner of the original glass plate negative. (For an even better impression, make a pilgrimage to the Air Force Museum, at Dayton. The folks there have blown up the uncropped image to the size of a wall.) Interesting points include the pattern of footprints around the place where the aircraft started (you can just about make out the outline of the wings), and of the footprints Wilbur made as he ran alongside holding the wing, then peeled off to the right.

The links in the "Further Reading" section of the ECU site are also worth following - especially the one for the Library of Congress. That one has some nice, closeup photos of the original engine. Its overall color pretty clearly was unpainted aluminum.

Reproducing the appearance of that great machine in model form is quite a challenge. Hope this helps a little.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Monday, July 4, 2005 10:47 AM
The color I used on my WF was Testors Armor Sand, it dries flat and it weathers very well.

Jake

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Greenville,Michigan
Posted by millard on Monday, July 4, 2005 11:33 AM
I do WWI planes plus sailing ships.Try this On the wings take a brown paint and highligt each rib top and bottom. If you have a n airbrush spray light coats of either Model Master Radone Tan Acryl or Gunze Sanyo Sail both water based paints.If you don't have and airbrush,brush on light thinned coats. This will appear as you can see the spars thru the cloth. For the struts and other wooden frame work.I apply MM wood paint the take MM clear red than MM clear orange this gives a shellac look to it.Best to try on a piece of sprue till you get the look you want.Hope that helps
Rod
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 4, 2005 2:48 PM
Guys, you are amazing.
Thank you very much for all the information.
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