Help with airbrushing arcrylics

There you have it...learn something new everyday...

Jef

I think the WW fluid must have a little bit of detergent in it- that's why it helps the paint flow so well.

I keep the WW fluid in one of those plastic spray bottles- it is an easy way to dispense small amounts of fluid into the color cup of my Iwata airbrush...

-Bill

At $1.99 a gallon, I'll give it a try...worst case, it ends up in the car!!

Jeff

I use windshield washer fluid to thin both MM acrylics and PollyScale acrylics.

I used to use distilled water, but got inconsistent results- the surface tension of the water caused the paint to bead up sometimes.

I read on rec.models.scale that people were using WW fluid with success. I tried it, and never looked back. I now get consistent results- I always get good coverage. I had wondered about the blue tint of the fluid, but it is so dilute that it has no impact on the paint color, even when spraying white or yellow.

The stuff is cheap too-- you can often find a gallon for a dollar or so.

-Bill

FAAmech,

Yup, regular isopropyl rubbing alcohol...mixed with distilled water...best thinner I've found. Most of the thinners available commercially for acrylics are basically water and alcohol, although most have some sort of flow agent added.

Some guys have said to add a single drop of clear dishsoap to the thinner (note I said ONE DROP), although I've had no reason to try to it yet.

Jeff

Jeff,

You mean you use just regular Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol? Boy will that save money as opposed to "special thinners".

Thanks for the tip as I also have the VIIC 1/72 Uboat comming and was trying to decide wether to use enamels or Acrylics.... I like the idea of not having to use toxic chemicals to thin and clean with... (of course I'll still wear a respirator)

Wimp! There's nothing like a big GRAY cloud in your workshop. My thought is that why paint the walls? They'll get color eventually!

Of course I'm kidding...

Jeff

For my part, I use the Testor's purpose made airbrush thinner. A little bit more expensive than alcohol or water, but after experimenting around, I find I get a better finish with their thinner, especially on the light colors.

Jeff's ratio is exactly what I thin at if I'm shotting at that pressure. Usually what I do, though, is go for something closer to a 50/50 mix of paint to thinner and shoot down around 20 psi. The only reason for this, though, is that I paint in an apartment, and cut down the air pressure to keep down on the overspray.

-Devin

To add to Jeff's advice, definitely practice. If you Revell u-boat is the 1/72 one, you definitely don't want to mess that up. When practicing, you want to work with a practice material that will react to paint in a manner similar to styrene plastic. Since styrene is non-porous, you want to practice on a material that is also non-porous, hence Jeff's sugestion of a glossy card as opposed to a regular sheet of paper. A plastic milk jug also works fairly well.

Andy

Although some think it's rocket science...I've found that a 60-40 mix of thinner to paint works best. The mix should have the consistency of milk if you're shooting at 20-25 psi. I tend to shoot a leaner mix at higher psi (about 35psi) because I like multiple thin coats instead of a single heavier one.

I use a 50-50 mix of rubbing alcohol and distilled water as my thinner. Works like a charm.

I would strongly suggest practicing on something first...even a piece of glossy card stock is better than nothing.

Jeff